The EAS tank is empty (it leaks out if its been parked) and the car decided to empty its airbags as i shut all the doors with it jacked right up.
The engine wont run as its waiting on a new MAF...
Is there any way i can get EAS to fill the tank and lift itself to normal height without starting the engine? I have nanocom, not sure if i can start the compressor and open the appropriate valves with that?
Use the Nano to run the pump for about 7-8 minutes (EAS, Diagnostics, Outputs, Pump On) to fill the reservoir. Then in the same Outputs tab, Open a valve, then click on Open Inlet. This will send air from the reservoir to whichever corner you have opened the valve on. Once up to height, close the inlet valve and the valve for the one corner. You can lift a corner at a time or all at once. I find it's best to open both front valves then Inlet so the front rises, Close the Inlet and both front valves and then do the same for the rear.
Have you got a fully charged battery? :)
thanks will have a look in a bit. Trying to sort a drop link and having it sat on the bump stops isnt helping access!
Morat wrote:
Have you got a fully charged battery? :)
It was fully charged last week, but i've got a 15A bench supply i'll stick on it while running the compressor. Wont fully cover the compressor load, but will take the worst of it, and it'll just let it refill the battery after.
You need to have the ignition on to connect to the EAS ECU too.
Hmm didnt seem to work.
The compressor ran, valves clicked, but the car didnt actually lift.
Annoying theres no pressure sensor as i've no idea if the tank was actually filling etc.
You have to open a (or some of the) corner valve(s) and then the inlet valve (while the corner valve is still open) to allow air to flow from the reservoir, through the inlet valve and the individual corner valve.
Yep. Opened inlet and both rears. Valve block clicked for each command but nowt. I even left it sitting for 30 seconds with the compressor running and the valves open just to see if it would lift but it didn't seem to do anything.
Usually when started it will begin rising within a minute or so. Ive seen to go from bump stops to normal height before I turn out the end of the cauldesac...
Is there a way of splicing a shrader valve into the tank line? That way I can use a guage to see pressure and also fill the tank with the airline if needed.?
Splicing a valve in is easy, I understand why, but I’d rather blank where needed, and valve what’s there to do your work, then put back to standard, I think splicing in your asking for more problems with possible leaks ( experience from previous rig, badly spliced by P.O. )
I’d be checking the compressor, swapped mine today for spare I carry, it’s like I’ve supercharged the EAS, lol.
I have always found that although you can run without car running, it’s a lot happier if it is running, I think it draws a lot of power. you should be able to run without maf, normally it ticks over rough but still runs, unless of course another
LR special feature.
I’ve seen some pumps with a schrader valve fitted to the opposite side to the pipe outlet, Obviously a bit of drilling and tapping required, something I might even look at myself, as can be installed neatly
It totally fouled the plugs running with the old MAF. I've reset everything and fitted new plugs, but I don't want to ruin them by running it with no MAF and the fuelling all over the place again. I guess it'll just have to wait.
Not sure if it's a pump issue or just lack of voltage. I have a twin piston tyre inflator that's significantly faster on 14v than 12v, so maybe thats the issue. I'd just leave the pump running but I've no idea if it will actually stop when it gets full...
The pump was replaced shortly before I bought the car and hasn't done much more than about 5k, but it was potentially a britpart unit 😂 it's never given me any troubles in normal use, bar the tank deflating. It usually isn't a problem as the bags hold air and it stays at normal height most of the time.
Simple enough to fit a Schrader valve. It needs to go in the larger (8mm?) pipe from the EAS valve block and the air dryer. You'll need one of these https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RANGE-ROVER-P38-EAS-AIR-SUSPENSION-PUMP-INFLATION-BYPASS-VALVES-ANR3731-8mm/253056830545 and an 8mm Tee similar to this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Range-Rover-P38-EAS-Air-Suspension-Airline-Fitting-TEE-section-2-5-TD-4-0-4-6-V8/271266895363 (that one is 6mm). You should be able to get what you need from somewhere that supplies pneumatic fittings. The plastic bodied connectors with the blue plastic collets can be a pain to get to seal (so by trying to identify leaks you end up putting more in there) but work OK if you put an extra O ring in each port so there's two like all the other joints in the EAS system.
I actually scored an EAS "emergency lift" kit from a scrapper the other day with the four Schrader valves and T-pieces. Just seemed a bit too good to waste, even if it's not something I'd be inclined to use.
Oh my Lourde, the easiest way is to order the unsurpassed Rover Raiser kit from the good Doctor Scotty over on that lovely RR.net, allow him to remove the dosh from your credit card and then...oh, hang on. :-)
I have the valves courtesy of BPSM. I don't have T pieces, if I get into that situation I'll just pull the four lines from the block and pump up the bags by airline. Here's hoping I don't ever need to find out how that works :)
I guess it depends what actually fails.
My EAS all works pretty well, but the tank seems to empty itself if its left sitting. The car generally stays up, so its not usually an issue (i guess bar giving the pump a hard time having to refill the tank every time its used), but now and then it will do the EAS dance when parked and lower itself down. I dont want to go down the route of manual valves on all the bags etc. It would just have been handy to be able to see tank pressure with a guage, so i can figure out whats going on, and obviously being able to fill the tank with my big compressor would have helped at the weekend.
I asked a while ago about figuring out the tank leak, but from memory it was suggested it was likely a leaking NRV in the valve block that isnt repairable, so i just left it.
It would just have been kinda useful to get the thing lifted up into offroad mode as i need to sort a drop-link and its sat on axle stands at the front as the axle isnt back together, and the stands dont seem to like me jacking the chassis (they seem to creak and groan if i jack the chassis up)
On the points above, i have a question... AFAIK line 6 goes to the tank? So why would i connect the fill valve to the dryer line instead? I guess i need to get a diagram of the system.
Because it's the easiest place to get to the pipework. Diagram below
But the drier is behind NRV1, which i think means while i could fill the tank from there, i couldnt fit a pressure gauge to that position to view tank pressure?
A gauge would have to go in the line actually going to the tank right?
Yup, you're right. To use a gauge it needs to go on port 6 which is the line to the reservoir.
Well i had another go today. Used my garage compressor with a blowgun on the end, removed the line from the top of the dryer, stuffed it into the end of the blowgun and blasted away. It filled the tank in about 30 seconds lol. And ofcourse having the NRV between the dryer and tank means it doesnt all try to escape out the end when i removed the blow gun.
Got the nanocom, opened the valves and up she went :)
I guess either i wasnt giving the compressor long enough, or, more likely, running at 12v it just doesnt have enough grunt.