Problem solved. Bought this

https://rangerovers.pub/topic/560-something-non-range-rover-related-looking-for-an-antenna-connector

Some of the info in this thread may help understanding the reverse polarity bit - I had a bit of trouble sourcing a reverse polarity WiFi antenna connector earlier in the year.

The pictures show the socket/pin difference that Gilbertd mentioned.

Hi all,

Sorry to resurrect a dead thread (not sure if this is allowed or not?) but I've just bought the head unit linked earlier in the thread with the intention of fitting it in my 2001 rangie. Couple of questions for the people who've done this before.....

How do I tell whether my car has the DSP amp in it?

At the moment I have an aux input into my factory head unit (the GROM one that goes in the CD changer), can I just wire the L / R out from the Android thingy into that, or do I need attenuators in between?

For powering the unit is there an appropriate feed in the current sat nav wiring? (I appreciate I could just look in the RAVE cd for this!)

The DSP system uses a single DSP amp on the boot while the non-DSP unit has individual door amps in each door. On the existing head unit there should be a DSP option (in the tone controls bit from memory), if you don't have that then you've got amps in the doors. If you have door amps there will be 5 outputs from the head unit, L&R, front and rear as well as the output for the sub. That will need attenuators or an aftermarket unit will overdrive the amps (unless you use line out level but I think that will be too low). The DSP system only has two outputs, L&R, and the fade and sub feed is all dealt with in the DSP amp. The existing head unit will have permanent and ignition switched live feeds on one of the DIN plugs that normally go into the back of the unit.

Okie dokie, it seems I have the DSP system then (I have the DSP options on the head unit).....does that mean I can plug the L&R output from the android unit into the input on the existing head unit (the CD changer input) and all will work as it should? Or do I still need something in between them?

Probably, if you intend leaving the existing head unit in there and use the line level output. Most people pull that out and fit a cubby in it's place. Although most people don't have a working DSP system any more which is why they are looking for and alternative.

Yes, in theory you can just wire the left/right into the DSP amp. Some people say that you need to turn the volume all the way up on the factory system before disconnecting, but I've never worked on one with a fully functioning DSP system before disconnecting it, so can't tell for sure!

You will lose the front to rear fade ability, as this will be done on the head unit, rather than in the DSP amp as the factory system does.

But, if you are leaving the existing head unit in place and simply feeding the output from the new unit into the line in on the Grom, then all the existing controls on the head unit will still work as they always have. You are just using the output from the new unit as an external source. A nice simple addition while the DSP is still working. When it dies then you've got a lot more work to do but for the time being it seems a good option.

Yeah, at the moment my DSP amp is working fine.... I just replaced the speakers in the sub (the rubber had disintegrated) and it sounds reasonable now. Bit harsh at the top end but good levels of mid / bass.

Replacing the door speakers is also a good upgrade. The original ones may have been state of the art 20 years ago but modern speakers are much better. I replaced the main ones in mine with JBL Studio 600C (now replaced with the 600CE) speakers and the difference was astounding. Having used a car with a fully working DSP system, my view is it's good, for a 20 year old system, but not that much better than the standard system in any modern car and certainly not up to the standard of the Bose, etc systems fitted in more upmarket motors.

A 250w system 20 yrs ago was great, now they push 5x plus, but I still like the sound of my original system, although think my subs are on the way out 😪
I wonder though is it really worth spending as much on a stereo as the car is worth.

I'm certainly in no rush to replace the DSP setup in The Duchess. When it fails, it'll probably all get ripped out in favour of an android headunit/nav system. Until then, it's quite cool.

So, this is my installation, using the head unit linked by blueplasticsoulman

I was a bit over enthusiastic with the dremel, so it needs tidying up a bit round the corners but overall I think it looks okay.

Don’t think I’ll use a dremmel when doing mine, I’ll go old school and file it down bit by bit, I’m good with a router, but a dremmel is a different matter, lol.
Still looks good though Paul,

They are definitely the way ahead but I wish there was a tablet out there that was a millimetre smaller so it would line up with the bottom of the clock.

There's a mm or so of plastic 'lip' round the outside of the screen.... if you're a braver man than me and have a steady hand with a dremel you could probably get rid of that.

Alternatively, the screen and gubbins is all mounted into that plastic frame..... I suspect you could take the frame off entirely and mount the screen directly into the panel.

Or, could the cutting not be done at the top, into the switch panel. I must admit that if I had an option I’d change the clock aswell.
Although saying that, mines behaved for a few weeks, I normally lose an hour a day, can be bloody annoying to be honest.