Are you doing a summer camp this year, Marty?
Tanks Marty.
i've managed to disassemble the door..
the metal arm had broken and was held in with glue!!
[img]https://i.imgur.com/PejncIll.jpg[/img]
The key barrel seems to be completely fecked.
I've pulled the door lock out and i'm in the middle of disassembling it,
[img]https://i.imgur.com/Rib38Isl.jpg[/img]
It has apparently been tested.
[img]https://i.imgur.com/xfnQS4il.jpg[/img]
Seems this was a reoccurring issue.
lol
I don't have the funds at the moment to replace it, so i'm gonna have a crack at fixing it myself.
Oh and Marty
Thanks for the Offer, i'm ok at the moment lol
If i need anything i'll be sure to give ya a shout!
H
The thing that fails on them is the 3 microswitches. They all switch to ground (black wire) so you can test each one of those with a meter. Earlier cars had three individual switches that could be changed fairly easily but the later ones have three in one block that makes things a bit more difficult.
If it's got a date sticker on if of 2014 - then it's only 4 years old, and I'd hazard a guess to say the latch is actually OK.... I have a test sheet that will show you the expected results from testing the microswitches with a multimeter, but I'm going to go out on a limb and say your only issue is probably that key barrel.
I would look at getting a replacement drivers door handle, and then removing the back half of the door lock and swapping it onto yours (that way the barrrel part with all the wafers in it, will stay the same and your key blade will still work).
Between that and the other rod that goes to the actual door handle pull looking a bit worse for wear (might be the angle of the picture though), I wouldn't be surprised if that sorts it.
If you're feeling brave, you should be able to just order a whole new door handle/lock assembly from Land Rover, to your VIN number, which will come with the new lock/cylinder/arm and be set up for your key blade.
@Oldshep - probably not doing a Summer Camp this year. If I do, it will be later in July, as I'm busy until end of the first week, and I really need to get a move on and dedicate some time to getting some of the work done on my project P38's!
Out of interest, who is interested in a Summer Camp this year?
The door lock tends to make a horrific rattling noise occasionally when its fiddled with.
This broken piece in the Pic below.
It has broken in the old key barrel and its proving difficult.
How do you pull the barrel out of the handle?
The rattling noise may be normal. There's a small spring loaded weight in the drive from the locking motor which will rattle.
I'd be up for lending a hand at a summer camp if one happens but July is pretty busy for me too (as we'll be moving house) so August would be better.
I think there is some confusion here about lock and latch.
The door lock, in the handle looks like the bit that has broken. The back half of the lock, and the cast piece which had the arm on it that moves the rod (that's connected to the latch) can be removed - there's a roll pin which holds the back half in place (it's spring loaded so be careful when removing it!). The last one I did, I wasn't able to extract the roll pin, so cut the corner off the back piece to allow me to remove it. I then drilled/tapped a new hole on the opposite side and used a small machine screw on reassembly to hold it in place.
The latch (where the microswitches are and the rods connect to) shouldn't rattle that much - but I have seen some of them where internal plastic parts have broken and caused things to float about in there. Again I think at this point it's pretty unlikely to be the problem, given the state of the door lock.
I'll start a new thread about a possible summer camp. End of July/start of August might be possible - I've had an enquiry about some work in mid July, which will take me out of the picture for another week or so.
Welcome to the wonderful world of P38s!
+1 on the cooling system. I replaced the lot and she'll now sit quite happily(?) in a Manila traffic jam for hours at 35 degrees without any issues or water loss.
+1 on the Nanocom as well, it's a great investment. The only guy that I trust here with the Testbook is bloody miles away, but with the Nanocom, I can do it in my garage!
My oil gets changed around every 1,000km. A bit excessive you think? Given how many hours the engine has to run at an average of 8kph to achieve that, no I don't think so!
As Gilbert says, look after it and it'll look after you. Mine gets a bit molly coddled, but then she's more of a toy than a serious daily.
You'll get plenty of good advice here - as you've already seen.
Thanks all for the advice.
I wondered what this plug was for in the glove box lol
https://i.imgur.com/ARBxCb7.jpg
I've removed and refitted the lock quite a few times, each time i've had to unravel and re solder the separate wires!
https://i.imgur.com/ZFFclGS.jpg
Why would the previous mechie do this?
Is there a known fault with the block connectors?
Also when i reconnected the wires both front doors have locked and i can't open them!
The passenger side door won't unlock manually and the manual lock feels rather loose..
So i think it's safe to say both actuators are toasted.
Grr
I'm gonna have to wait till i have a stable cash supply and extra time!!!
H
:edit:
I know the wires are wired correctly, the bodge did work so i labelled the wires and have reconnected them the same way.
If the earth is disconnected, or connected last, the doors will lock. Looks like you've had a real bodger in there, biggest cause of most problems on an older P38 (that'll be all of them then) people messing with things they don't understand.
StrangeRover wrote:
I wondered what this plug was for in the glove box lol
https://i.imgur.com/ARBxCb7.jpgI've removed and refitted the lock quite a few times, each time i've had to unravel and re solder the separate wires!
https://i.imgur.com/ZFFclGS.jpg
Why would the previous mechie do this?
Is there a known fault with the block connectors?
It might be worth popping the connector in your photos apart and checking what the pins in there are like.
BrianH wrote:
StrangeRover wrote:
I wondered what this plug was for in the glove box lol
https://i.imgur.com/ARBxCb7.jpgI've removed and refitted the lock quite a few times, each time i've had to unravel and re solder the separate wires!
https://i.imgur.com/ZFFclGS.jpg
Why would the previous mechie do this?
Is there a known fault with the block connectors?
It might be worth popping the connector in your photos apart and checking what the pins in there are like.
All the Pins look rather nice..
Is there any way i can re-open the doors?
All advice is greatly appreciated.
Grounding the green/red wire should simulate operating the CDL switch in the latch and cause the doors to unlock.
Gilbertd wrote:
Grounding the green/red wire should simulate operating the CDL switch in the latch and cause the doors to unlock.
Thanks!
Keys, Locks and remotes ! I don't claim to understand what I'm going to say but it might be of interest. In the early days of my P38 Gems/Lpg it kept suffering a strange happening where the remote became inop and no way car would start. This finally happened in Switzerland on the morning when car loaded and ready for long drive down to S Spain. Called my breakdown insurance and they came and took the RR to the big Range Rover Heaven Garage in Bern - you know huge glass windows, marble floors and salesmen seated at lone desk in middle of wonderful display of RR's that seemed years later than my P38. When I went in to collect the car I was led away from the smart sales area to a reception desk where an 'engineering type' in a spotless white coat holding a clipboard told me they had reset something and it was all back to normal. But then I discovered that 'normal' meant that some random magical radio signals that emanated from police cars, roadside equipment and god knows where could completely immobilise my P38. (This had happened to a BMW on the autobahn they said and it only restarted when it was moved) The answer, the clever Swiss guy said was to reset something in the ECU/system that cancelled the remote working but still allowed normal key locking and starting. Yes I said - for gods sake do it. No regrets - never had the problem again. When I took it to James French near Oxford for some problem they were mystified as to what the clever Swiss had done and said they were not aware how to do this. I have enough problems without going through the mysteries of remotes - quite happy to just use the key as normal. Do glance at my recent post on 'Opening time' - LPG if you can give any advice on my current problems - chris
I would say they just fitted a later receiver, or changed frequency somehow, getting caught by shopping centres, hospitals etc, is still a common thing over here.