So it looks like I need to learn another skill over the next few days. My front to back and both rear little solid pipes are corroded, and they do look pretty nasty.
What I can't fathom is the point of the little solid lines? Why can the lines from the front not go straight to the long flexi hose brackets on the car?
http://workshop-manuals.com/landrover/p38/p38a808.png
Mine is like the top box - on my phone and chrome won't play nicely with the insert image box!
I honestly don't know why they have those extra little drop pipes on the rears... my '01 has them, but when I did mine, I just made a couple up as close to the original as possible..
I don't see why they can't go straight to the hoses either though...
Probably just to make them easier to fit on the production line. <br>
A roll of Kunifer and a not too cheap flaring kit and the pipe construction's not too hard. Running them can be a bit of a bear apparently, for those of you normal people who don't have a removable boot floor.
You WILL need a crowsfoot spanner like this https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/clarke-crows-foot-imperial-wrench-set-10-piece/ (although you'll only need one size and I can't remember which size it is) or you will never get the top union on the little short pipes undone.
If no one can think of a reason beyond production, I will probably go straight to the long flexi brackets and do away with the little flexi/solid sections. I think I've seen a few posts by you Gilbert 'elsewhere' that suggest it is 11mm, will see if I can find them again to check. I may end up just cutting them off anyway if they're not needed and any inaccessible bits can sit there.
Might have to do it in normal copper though as I can't seem to find anywhere locally that stocks the copper/nickel stuff. Need to get it done this weekend really. Quite pissed off the garage took 7 hours to get around to telling me exactly what the car had failed on. Had I known this morning (a mere 3-4 hours after dropping it off say), I could have ordered some and had it tomorrow along with the other bits I need.
Maybe it's me - but I have yet to find a garage that grasps the concept of communication. The best was a BMW indy - had my 5 series for...something, the day drew to a close and I had forgotten about it to be honest - got home in the loaner and rang the next day to be told 'oh yeah, it was all done yesterday, we were waiting for you to pick it up'... oh, sorry, my crystal ball must be fu#!ing broken!
Also failed on a centre rear seatbelt buckle. I wonder where my spares went -_- Typical! I think I have enough bits of various buckles from the old car's original seats to build a functioning one.
Normal copper is a no-no Nick. It work hardens unfortunately
Found a potential supplier for you: <br>
DORSET TUBE, Thrush Rd, Poole, Dorset, BH12 4NT <br>
http://www.dorsettubes.co.uk/
I'll give them a call in the morning, thanks! Will continue to google till then.
My old one had the rear lines replaced in normal copper?
Using copper pipe won't instantly send you into a head-on collision with the four horsemen of the apocalypse, but vibration will crack it eventually and it's softer than cupro-nickel so wears quicker anywhere it touches and is less rigid. <br>
Many years ago when I prepped race and rally cars the regs wouldn't allow pure copper pipes for those reasons. <br>
Me saying it was a no-no was probably a bit OTT as even Halfords sell pure (99%) copper pipe as brake pipe, but I wouldn't use it
I did mine in Cupro aswell, and whilst it's harder than standard copper to run - you won't need to do it again for the life of the vehicle (with any luck!)
I had to get one of these:
[Flare tool](http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Brake-Pipe-Flaring-Tool-for-3-16-Brake-Pipes-Professional-Hand-held-SAE-Double-/361550230463?
There are a load of different sellers on eBay who do them, but it is designed to be able to do Cupro and steel lines, with single and double flares... and the best bit... it can be used on the vehicle, so you don't have to try and get the line the right length, flare it, put the unions on and then weave it into place... I just ran my replacement lines off the reel, with a bending spring on it to do the curves/corners, then cut the pipe to length and flared it.
Oh, and whilst the pipe is 3/16" (or 4.75mm?) the unions are M10 threaded rater than imperial. I found that the SAE flares done on the flaring tool worked fine.. I wasn't sure whether they were SAE or DIN flares, but as the SAE looked most common, and it did the single/double flares for both sides of the unions, I went for that.
Been on 4 years with no leaks, and joined up OK to the existing lines behind the front wheel arch liner!
Marty
Dorset Tube sadly don't sell in small quantities, but they were able to point me to a place just up the road that do sell it! So now I should be sorted for pipe.
I was planning to get that flaring tool from Machine Mart today, but having just checked again its an 'xtra' product... I wish they would just drop this whole pointless 'xtra' crap - if you don't stock it in store, I'm going to order it online from somewhere else for less, and I sure as hell won't be waiting 7 DAYS for it. I love Machine Mart, but this and any other bricks and mortar place that lists products only available online drives me mad.
Prime doesn't do Saturdays :( Found a local place that has one at another branch that they're sending over for this afternoon.
But now I can't find the flexi hoses to the calipers... mine don't look like they'll be coming off where the copper meets them intact. So again I'm stuck. FYI - BGParts.co.uk is a complete joke. Eurocarparts only list the ones for the old setup - unless I'm missing something.
Really didn't think this would be as much hassle as its turning out to be, and I haven't even started yet.
LR Direct will do next day express for 9.50 if ordered before 2pm
Hmmm. sounds to me like a roll of Kunifer and a couple of flare tools would be a good addition to the next RR meet!
I could have bought mine with me. But nobody needed them then. Or at least they didn't realise they needed them then.......
Got pee'd off and went to Lulworth cove for Lunch, didn't see LR Direct could do next day. Surely doesn't include Saturday? Will have to have a look.
Managed to lay my hands on the kunifer, flare tool, pipe cutter, and pipe bender. Couldn't get the caliper flexi hoses, so eventually after many drownings in plusgas, sacrificing a goat, waiting for the planets to align, I cracked the nuts off and they've both come out relatively cleanly. Bit of luck.
Drivers side done, minus the little flexi hose and solid section. Went up and over the petrol filler piping so I could clip it into as many clips as possible. I think the other side can wait till tomorrow.
You don't waste any time!! Not that you have it to waste with the MOT needing to be retested on it... but even so, more drive than I've got a lot of the time!!
Though that being said, I have tested 4 switchpacks since I got home this evening and removed the offending switches on all of them, ready for me to work on them tomorrow once I've replaced some door latches for a guy who's coming down from I think Birmingham..
So the good news is... Morat... I should have one ready to send up to you next week... I will keep one aside...
Make hay while the sun shines, or its dry and not freezing, or something like that. Come winter I won't be wanting to do anything outside in a borrowed driveway or at the side of the road, really need to move house...
But yeah, in this case sadly it needs sorting pronto. To be fair, the pipes all near the back that I've pulled out so far have been pretty damn crusty. I think I'll leave the track rod for them to do - given it'll need tracking doing anyway.
All done!
All that remains of the old pipes, and the 25ft roll of cunifer. Don't get much change out of it! Also pictured is one of the padlocks that my other half has gone out with the keys to, that locks away the pressure washer... overcome by Morat fever and had to wash behind the wheel arch liners!
While cleaning the inside of the wheels... I noticed something the MOT man didn't - top right. Tits. To eBay to find another hurricane!
Previous owner must have hit something damned hard to manage that. Hopefully explains my wheel wobble between 60-70mph. Could be UJs but they seem fine, and now I've seen this... it needs replacing.
