Plugged in my new (to me) Nanocom yesterday and went through all the screens.

LOTS of engine codes, mostly inactive and relating to misfires - which I knew about as the car nearly caught fire a few weeks ago. It was worse than I thought at the time though!

Present faults:

P0134 - Lambda Bank 1 Signal Missing (x2)
NA - Signal too low. Intermittent, causes MIL lamp (x132)
NA - Signal Missing. Persistent, causes MIL Lamp (x129)
NA - Signal too low. Intermittent (x1)

The first one seems straight forward - no signal from the lamda sensor. Loose connection, dead sensor etc.

Not sure where to start with the NA ones though. I have no MIL lamp on despite the fault descriptions.

I'm not really concerned with the following codes as they're not present and I knew it was misfiring before. It's interesting to see how bad it actually was. If I'd had the Nanocom at the time I wouldn't have left it to run as long as I did. It honestly only sounded and felt like a minor misfire in one cylinder! It does show me what the issue was though. Misfires on 4 cylinders - all 4 on the same coil. I must have had a loose ignition coil plug that was fixed by my random wiggling of all the connectors I could reach.

Not present:

P1000 - Lambda Bank 2 Signal missing (x170)
P1300 - Cat damaging misfire. Signal too high. Multiple cylinders (x2)
P1301 - Cat damaging misfire. Signal too high. Cylinder 1 (x1)
P0304 - Cat damaging misfire. Signal too high. Cylinder 4 (x1)
P1000 - Cat damaging misfire. Signal too high. Cylinder 6 (x1)
P1000 - Cat damaging misfire. Signal too high. Cylinder 7 (x2)
P1319 - Misfire with low fuel (x2)
P0175 - Additive Adaptive Mixture Correction TRA Bank 2 Drive Cycle B (x7)
P0175 - Mixture Adaption Factor FRA Bank 2 Drive Cycle B (x14)

Cylinder 5 is showing a value of 1.89 for roughness. The other cylinders are all at 0.00. Not sure what this means. What units is this measured in? I think this was the cylinder that I found a small amount burnt black crud in. Slight oil leak affecting combustion that the ECU is noticing?

One of my lambda sensors isn't behaving the same as the other one. Bank A is showing as completely stable at 0.28V with a stable output value of 0.99. Bank B is bouncing around rapidly with a voltage between 0.02 and 0.77. Bank B output value is bouncing between 0.95 and 1.05. At a guess, the once that's not changing is the once that's wrong? That would tie in with the active/present fault saying that the signal from bank 1 lambda is missing.

Sitting at idle it shows RPM at 760 with a target engine speed of 3120 - does this mean it's trying to achieve 3120rpm for some reason?

Sitting at idle it shows and engine load of 14%, internal and air temps of 45C, throttle open 0% and closed throttle 14.81V - do these values look ok or would they explain my intermittent high idle issue?

On the rough road screen the voltage reading is swapping between 0 and 12 about once every second, rough running is "ON" and rough road status is "ACTIVE". The compensation value is 0.01.

Then I'm on to blend motor issues (which I knew about before hand but have been living with). Left hand blend and distribution motors are short circuited to positive. Need to pull those and check the connections for corrosion and test the motors.

Next up is two things that I didn't know about. I found a screen that let me test the cruise control buttons. Ever since I've had the car the resume function of the cruise control hasn't worked. I assumed the switch was dead and didn't worry about it. Nanocom shows that the button DOES work. It shows pressed when I press it. Now I need to work out why it doesn't actually resume my CC.

Last up is a suspension height sensor out of range - although I have no suspension faults and it goes up and down perfectly.

Yep the sensor on Bank A is dead/disconnected. Start there and you'll probably find some/all of your engine issues go away once the Motronic is getting all the data it needs.

I'd clear the suspension fault and see if it comes back (remember which corner!) You'll probably need a new sensor at some point but they can throw codes seemingly at random for quite a while before they're really dead. Now you have the nano you can reset the out of range fault and carry on :)

Is bank 1 the passenger side with cylinders 1, 3, 5 and 7?

If so, I guess the heat from the cat that nearly caught fire probably toasted the sensor and/or the wiring.

If it detects a dead sensor does the ECU default to "safe" value to allow the car to continue running (which would be the static value Nanocom is seeing?)?

I've cleared all the codes I could to see what comes back the next time I check it.

Yes, bank 1 is passenger side ( odd cylinders) if like mine, when you accelerate, it would run like a pig at level throttle. on slow down my tick over could drop really low, even stall, was over fueling and cutting that bank out, plus my mpg went down to 6.2mpg

It looks like you have been playing with the nano more than I have, lol, I need to sit and play sometime, but with a new puppy keeping me busy there’s not much chance of it happening anytime soon,.

It seems to run just fine - MPG is a bit lower than before I did the head gaskets but has been improving.

My high idle seems to be intermittent and mostly when cold. If I drive for a while and stop it seems to idle lower (but not at the value listed in RAVE).

Just been looking through RAVE for the voltage range for the TPS. Looks like it should range between 0-5V. Nanocom reckons my car has a closed throttle value of 14.81V!

I guess I need to go hit the reset button.

Definitely, reset the adaptive values and you may even find the lambda sensor fault goes away. Default is to run rich and the lambda sensor showing 1V or thereabouts is rich. Usually when a lambda sensor fails it goes to 0V meaning lean.

Ok, so resetting the adaptive has affected the idle closed voltage. It's now gone up to 15.xx volts lol.

Might have to get a multimeter out and check what voltage the sensor is actually giving out.

Huh? But it's driven off a 5V rail so how can a resistor increase the voltage?

I don't have a photo of the current value but this was it the other day, before I reset the adaptives.

Am I reading it wrong?

Nope,but where were you testing it? Internal and air temperature 45 degrees? Something a bit strange going on there.

Not sure what's going on with the temps. When I was looking earlier today they were reading fine. Showed 21.75 internal (climate control set to 21) and 12 external.

Just been out in the car again so had another look. Showing 45 internal and 26 external. Closed throttle voltage seems to swapping between 14.81 and 15.20. It sometimes changes by opening and closing the screen that shows it and once I saw the value change while it was on screen.

Clearing the adaptives doesn't seem to affect the closed voltage. The idle speed did rise and idle became a bit tougher though when I cleared them.

Checked it again this morning and the internal temp is showing 47, external seemed fine.

Closed throttle was showing 14.20V.

I tried looking in the HEVAC menu of the Nanocom but it says it can't connect to the ECU so I couldn't see anything in there.

HEVAC often doesn't connect first time, hit the red cross to back out of it and then go back in. I've also noticed that if you go to Faults first again it fails to connect but will connect if you go to one of the other buttons (Inputs is a good one to try) and it works.

I tried inputs first and went out and tried again but no luck. Went to inputs as I wanted to see what it was recording for the internal temp there.

I was able to see the faults though (blend motors short circuit to positive). I'll try again at lunch.

On the HEVAC, I go into Settings first. Sometimes get lucky and it connects straight away, other times, it will come up with error... Go back out, and back into Settings and it connects. Then back out and go into faults/inputs etc.

One other thing to note - if you hit 'Clear Faults' in the HEVAC, it will say it's cleared them - but they won't be erased from the memory until you power the HEVAC off and back on again - if you read the faults again straight away, they'll still be in memory and can lead to some red herrings when fault finding.

Got it to connect.

Readings in Hevac:
Ambient temp - 8
Aspirator temp - 18.60
Evaporator temp - 13.80

Readings in Motronic:
Internal temp - 49
Air temp - 26.25
Closed throttle - 14.42V

Climate control set to 18 and showing an external temp of 8.

It's not done the high idle for a while now and when it did do it I've not had a chance to get the Nanocom out :(

Went out to have a look just now but it wasn't doing it. Had a poke through some other screens and somehow put the car in to diagnostics mode and the engine wouldn't start, 20-odd miles from home on Christmas Day. Oops.

Thank God for Google and now I know how to use it to enter the EKA code. Every day's a school day :P