My 2002 Vogue SE has never had working remote central locking since the last owner bought the car. I've got 2 remote with the car and these both work, the lights on both come on when you press the keys but nothing happens when you try and unlock the car. I've tried the usual process of re-sync'ing the key to no avail.

The other thing I've noticed is that none of the front speakers on the car work either. I wondered if this was an amplifier fault initially but I'm now wondering if everything is related.

I've checked all the fuses in the side of the BECM and they're all ok, I've checked the antenna behind the rear seat is connected but nothing seems to be making any difference. When checking the remote locking with Testbook it tells you to press a button on the remote but the test fails.

Has anybody got any ideas where I'd be best going from here? I don't mind doing some digging to try and sort it but am unsure of the best route to take.

Thanks!

David.

Marty is your man for this, he can test and see what’s happening.

I doubt the speakers and locking are related - they go through different circuits for the most part, and the only place that they meet are at connectors inside the A pillar to connect door loom to vehicle loom.

Though even then, the locking commands are dealt with in the outstation (and microswitch connections from the door latch for manual locking/syncing of key etc) and this talks to the BECM through a serial link over 4 wires. If the other functions in the door all work like locking/unlocking with the key, the window and mirror, then it's unlikely that the issue is related.

Out of interest, is passive immobilisation switched on in the BECM? If it is, then try turning it off and syncing the key in the door. If it is on, then maybe try turning it on, and then syncing the key. There's no rhyme or reason for it making a difference, but I've found a few times now that it seems to get confused and changing that gets the key to sync again. Also worth clearing the RF memory aswell. If the key syncs up, then you can toggle the passive immobilisation again, and it should all be tickety boo

If that doesn't make any difference, then also check to make sure the key in switch isn't sticking (getting IGNITION KEY IN on the dash when it isn't) as that can also cause issues with key syncing.

If none of that works, then the only other think I can do (when I'm home!) is if you are happy to send the BECM and keys, then I can check to make sure the fob code matches what is programmed in the BECM. If the BECM is unlocked, and you can read the fob code, then I could read the transmission from one of the keys with me fob reader and tell you what should be programmed in the BECM.

Also worth checking all the door microswitches and all that (can be viewed on the Faultmate under the BECM inputs) to made sure they are all working properly too.

Hope this helps,
Marty

I vaguely remember mucking around with the passive immobilisation in the BECM with Testbook and it not making much difference so I'll try it again.

I used to get the Ignition Key In message when removing the key but a bit of graphite grease seemed to cure that and I've not had it come back since.

The interior lights have been temperamental since I got the car and I've noticed tonight that thumping the edge of the drivers door where the latch is will bring the interior lights on. It didn't seem to make any difference when opening the other doors. Surely I can't need 4 door latches? Do they all work through the drivers door latch?

David.

Update... just been out and checked again...

Open front drivers door - thump latch, relay clicks, lights come on.

Wait for lights to go out...

Open rear drivers door - no interior lights.

Wait for lights to go out...

Open tailgate - lights come on.

Wait for lights to go out...

Open rear passengers door - no interior lights

Wait for lights to go out...

Open front passengers door - about 1 - 2 seconds after opening the door a relay clicks and the lights come on.

David.

Erm.....

What does the BECM show in the inputs section for the door ajar and tailgate switches?

Off the top of my head I can't remember, I'll need to have another look.

Thinking about it, I keep my EAS locked at highway height and I'd totally forgotten that it doesn't automatically drop to highway height when on the motorway.

There's no warnings on the dashboard though to say there's a door ajar.

Will try and get it onto Testbook this evening and see what it shows.

David.

It sounds like you have a similar issue to me, in that your door ajar micro-switch isn't working in one or more door locks. Marty is shooting for confirmation with the Nanocom.

Be careful not to lock yourself out as I did - the car will sense the key in the ignition but won't sense the door closing so it's possible to push the doorpins down by mistake and shut the door without the doorpins popping back up. Ker-lunk. Pause. AHHHHHHH :)

Dunno about the EAS, sorry.

Well, I was having a fiddle with Testbook tonight and I think I might have turned the P38 into a paperweight at the moment...

I looked up the BECM and noticed that when viewing the settings it showed the Market as being "Rest of World" and EKA/Passive not fitted... I changed that to UK and it warned me that I'd need my EKA code which I had so stupid me thought that Testbook might prompt me for the EKA code... WRONG... It says to enter it using the door latch or to insert the key into the ignition and press the remote...

When trying to enter my EKA code the central locking is locking and unlocking the car, the door latch feels strange through the key so I believe the door latch is gubbed, and when putting the key in and pressing the remote nothing happens...

Now the market is set to UK the option for EKA/Passive has disappeared but I can't start the sodding car.

Looking through Testbook it can test comms with all the outstations...

It tested the Instrument Pack, Centre Console, RH Door, LH Door, RH Seat, all of which passed the comms tests. I can't see anywhere using Testbook to check the inputs to the BECM from the door latches. I've checked Health Check, Sub-system tests and Vehicle Maintenance but there's nothing there.

I'm really beginning to wonder if it's worth buying a nano com at the moment. Anyway, until I can get a door latch I think the car is stuck where it is.

The thing is, if you have the Nanocom it fits in the glovebox, and can get you out of situations where you would otherwise be stuck.

I think someone else (possibly Richard) has entered the EKA using the wires to send the appropriate code due to a broken latch.

normally with the Bosch system, it does sync when you try to start, press remote and off you go, the wiring thread is somewhere on the site, basically pop the door panel, unplug latch, green/red, blue/red need to both be splashed to ground, but I’m not sure if it will work with resync ..
Found the post I was looking for

https://rangerovers.pub/topic/688-help-now-i-m-really-in-the-sh-t

Well, I've recovered it from being a 2.5ton paper weight...

I had a good poke and a prod tonight, I removed the door latch and tested it on the bench using Marty's guide and it's responding as you'd expect on the multimeter. The Microswitches for the door lock don't feel as nice as I'd expect, notchy almost but they're working.

I refitted the latch to the car and attempted to enter the EKA code but it wouldn't take it. The handbook for this car says turn the key 4 times to the left before entering the first digit of the code. Every time I turn the key the indicators blink and when I enter the first digit the car unlocks. Putting the key in the ignition everything looks ok until you try and crank it and it says "Engine Disabled, press remote". Pressing the remote, nothing happens unfortunately. I stripped the steering shroud off and had a good look around all the connections incase the coil that detects the key was unplugged but it wasn't.

In a last ditch attempt I got Testbook out again and plugged it in. Thankfully and much to my amazement it connected to the BECM... I was scared it would be locked out. I changed the country back to Rest of World and disabled the passive immobilisation and once programmed I turned the key. This time the engine cranked. Unfortunately the battery must have gotten weak during all the mucking around so it's sitting on charge at the moment. I knew there was a reason I bought a 7amp C-Tek charger when it was on offer in Halfords.

So... I'm hopeful the car will start again in an hour or two but it doesn't look like I'm any closer to having the remote locking working.

David.

Im in almost the same boat as you!

Passive Immobilisation disabled and can use the car as expected but no effort of work syncing the key will let me use the remote central locking again. I have given up now. Just keep using the key in the drivers door to lock/unlock.