Martyuk wrote:

the britpart shaft wasn't phased the same as the LR original one...

I bought a Bearmach front propshaft from Rimmers as my original had wear in the splines on the sliding joint. That also had the phasing wrong. On the original there was a spline missing so it could only be put back together with the correct phasing but the replacement didn't so could go together any way. I just split it and phased it correctly. That probably explains why the phasing isn't mentioned in RAVE for the P38 but it is in RAVE for the Classic (which doesn't have the missing spline)

BrianH wrote:

Its not particularly difficult to get the propshaft off providing you have tools to fit the bolts ok, and once its off you can work on replacing the joints without being under the car, so it shouldn't take you too long with any luck.

Brian is there anything special required for the propshaft bolts beyond a socket and breaker bar?

I think you will need a spanner or two - Its constricted space wise.

Or better still one of these https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVER-NEW-PROPSHAFT-NUT-BOLT-TOOL-SOCKET-SPANNER-3-8-SQUARE-DRIVE/300945326600

Theres a variety of them if you look around, thats just the first one I saw. At least from memory of doing it, being imperial size and very close to the shaft, it wasn't easy to get a socket onto it. I think you need something to hold the other end of the bolt as well as they are only pushed through, they don't lock in any way.

Once its off, its just a case of using something to push it out - a vice and sockets I seem to remember we used (use the sockets to press the bit out of the joint with the pressure from the vice)

That's a funky looking thing but is it much better than a 3/8th socket and an extension? £11 is a lot of brass in Yorkshire 😀

I bought one of those and found it didn't fit as well as a 3/8th drive socket and extension, in fact, it didn't fit at all. You need to be able to rotate the propshaft as the socket will only fit at one point so it's a bit laborious but not difficult. Hardest one is the rear UJ on the front prop as the crossmember gets in the way.

I'm hoping to get all four wheels in the air, undo the worst propshaft and take it way to smack the UJs out with a socket and hammer once I've removed the circlips.
I've only bought two UJs so far but I've begged 10 minutes on the 4 post lift at work this lunchtime so I can have a look see. I need to do more than two I'll order some UJs this afternoon. Sadly LRDirect have been very slow shipping my stuff but I should be able to next day another set from somewhere if required.

So far I have assembled
JAckstands x4 (2x2ton 2x6 ton)
Metric/Imperial socket set with extensions etc
Set of Circlip Pliers
Grease
Paint Marker
Blue Locktite
Hammer :)

I need to borrow my neighbours Jack.
The UJs nuts and bolts are still on the way - due for delivery today.
Lets hope it stops pissing down!

Morat wrote:

That's a funky looking thing but is it much better than a 3/8th socket and an extension? £11 is a lot of brass in Yorkshire 😀

You may be alright on the P38 - Some of the bits are shared with the Disco 2, but not all. It did help on that (though I'm sure I paid around a fiver for it when i looked, couldn't find any even near that this time). A suitable socket and extension bar would probably work as well, Just i don't have many good imperial sockets (have brought as required so a few more now, but most of mine are metric)

You shouldn't need the bolts, but not a bad idea to have them anyway (they didn't seem to suffer with rust at least on mine, unlike the rest of it)

The shitpart prop I took off on mine actually had one bigger spline than the others, so it was keyed, and not possible to change the phasing on it, which was a pain... But never mind... At least the UJs on my old one were still serviceable and it's ok again at the moment