Just a thought, is there any evidence to link RR / P38 radiators being topped up in "hard water" areas and the subsequent oft reported leaking block issues are caused by limescale restricting water flow and causing high temps ?
Just a thought, is there any evidence to link RR / P38 radiators being topped up in "hard water" areas and the subsequent oft reported leaking block issues are caused by limescale restricting water flow and causing high temps ?
Really attributed to limescale?
Only a query for the gurus - I was reading some info on Google about issues with limescale in hard water areas and how it affects kettles and boilers and was wondering what their thoughts are if this is in engines. No issues with my P38 - nice soft water here in Nth Wales
It isn't something I've ever heard of and I live in a hard water area. I suspect the 50% anti-freeze will kill the limescale anyway. Using plain water will cause steel parts to rust, hence core plugs rusting out from the inside.
I've had problems with a Focus overheating under accleration, a bottle of Holts speedflush sorted that, and the few solid bits that came out sure looked like limescale, though there wasn't much of them (its designed to dissolve that sort of stuff) it made enough of a difference to keep the temp gauge happy.
I think it will depend on how often you're topping up. A kettle boils many litres of water once each, your radiator should really be reheating the same water all the time so the amount of calcium available to deposit as limescale should be very small in comparison.
One has to ask... what comes first? The leak requiring topping off, or potential damage from limescale causing blockage>overheating>pushing coolant out.
I doubt it though as others have said. It's a LR product, it will by nature start leaking at some point in its life no matter what sacrifices or pleas to deities you make.
Main thing is to not forego coolant, as straight water will rust steel parts internally quickly.
Antifreeze has corrosion inhibitors in it as part of the formulation, so it should keep the calcium in solution. Demineralised (or demin) water in combination with antifreeze may be the better way to go in hard water areas.
Also never use distilled water by itself in an engine. People have wrecked classic car engines thinking they are doing the right thing. It is very corrosive.
Morat wrote:
I think it will depend on how often you're topping up. A kettle boils many litres of water once each, your radiator should really be reheating the same water all the time so the amount of calcium available to deposit as limescale should be very small in comparison.
My thoughts too. Unless you're Martyuk ;-)
I was still in the same boat... just in my case most of it ended up inside the cabin, over my foot!
Same once happened to me in a Vauxhall Senator, pin prick hole in aluminium heater pipe sprayed hot water on my calf and ankle.
I never knew distilled water was corrosive....................we live and learn
Just to clarify, distilled water by itself is corrosive on some metal parts such as aluminium cylinder heads and cast iron blocks, particularly if oxygen (air) is present. It is pH neutral but will still react with some metals. Antifreeze will contain corrosion inhibitors to prevent this happening.
I used to work in the chemical industry and steam condensate, which is essentially distilled water, is very corrosive to mild steel pipework.