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The only place for a coil spring is up Zebedee's arse
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Yes top dead centre Mazz

I once had a Pug 306 1.9 turbo diesel that occasionally sounded like a petrol pinking (during which the usual diesel knock became more like a rattle), if it was doing this at idle it would rev itself up, I put this down to air in the system.. knocked on a neighbours door (ex diesel fitter) but neither of us found the problem.

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Well Powerdrive have sent an estimate. Unfortunately they have failed to include what diagnostic machine they used or any codes which they found. Now now say that it is overheating. Not done that before! Now saying water pump faulty.!!!! Can anyone tell me how to upload an image. I was going to put on the info I have got from them.

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Have you told them to stop working on it yet?

I'd contact them and say you won't even think about paying for anything until you have the info you requested. You also won't pay for any further work they carry out as from this point forward it's without your permission.

Are you using a PC/laptop or a phone/tablet? The process for uploading a picture would be slightly different depending on what device you're using.

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Yes. I have said stop. Got to make a decision on what to do with it. Now I have told them to stop they will want it removed. Where to?? I am using a tablet. Could use laptop but the screenshots are on the tablet.

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This is total bollox!!!! How can it overheat when it is not even running?? FFS, can't someone get this motor away from there at least?

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OldShep they say it overheated on a road test.

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So it runs well enough to take on the road, but it overheats. Fine - drive it as far as it will go before it overheats and park it.
How far are you from home? how far from a trusted garage?
Do you have AA/RAC/Green Flag?

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Anything that has happened, changed or gone wrong since you told them explicitly to stop working on it is their fault and responsibility and they should fix it at their cost back to the state it was in when you told them to stop.

As for uploading a screenshot, install the Imgur app.

That will let you upload the images there and one of the links it gives you will let you put the image on here.

What might be easier than trying to explain how to do it through a forum post would be to email it to me and I can put it up.

Would that be ok with you? I'll send you my email address.

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Yes. No problem. I will forward the email to you. Thanks

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Mazz's estimate (it's a PDF rather than a screenshot/image):

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1yRAd4kS1CXnCNCtXlgpMlYB5D9ek-gzs?usp=sharing

From reading that, I'd want to know the diagnostic machine used, fault codes found, the fuel pressure reading they got and what the "required" fuel pressure is and what checks they did to determine it needed two glow plugs.

"Spend 1 hour investigating faults" followed by another hour carrying out investigations followed by a further 2 hours of investigations. I'd want to know what specific checks, specifically for the "pedal checks" and glow plugs) they carried out to use up 4 hours of time. Presumably they hooked up a fuel pressure gauge to determine the pump output was too low. There's not a lot there to justify 4 hours of labour IMO.

It sounds like they're charging you an hour to simply connect their machine and read the codes - which certainly doesn't take an hour.

I'm no expert but I really don't think the glow plugs will make a difference to starting performance in our current weather! They certainly don't in our diesel Freelander. They might have found something electrically wrong with them though. Open circuit, short circuit etc.

I'd also like to know what brand of in-tank pump they fitted as the price seems astronomical. I'd expect genuine LR for that price!

https://www.lrdirect.com/ESR1111-Fuel-Pump-Sender-Unit-P38-2.5D/

Hopefully someone more familiar with the diesel engine can comment on how reasonable the time to replace two glow plugs and the in-tank pump is.

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I was just thinking that about the in tank pump aswell - and looked at the same link... Britcar show a Land Rover one for £282 inc VAT - so for that price I would be expecting a genuine Land Rover part... even LR Direct show OEM/VDO as just over a half of that price.

Did they quote you a price for the pump before doing the in tank pump, or did they do that of their own volition?

To me too, 4 hours of labour seems a lot - most of which could probably have been looked at and tested in an hour with a Nanocom and looking at live data readings. Did they also ask you about taking the top of the pump back off again for testing in their machine, or again did they do that of their own accord once you had told them about what we believed the fault code to be?

Glow plugs... yeah, in the summer, P38's don't need them all to be working to start it - in the winter they do. I've seen a couple of owners who have them not start and contact me about sync problems, immobiliser problems etc - and had 2 within the space of a month like that, which ended up being a couple of dead glow plugs. But they had only had issues as the weather got colder, starting was fine over summer/autumn time.

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I did ask them what diagnostic machine and what fault codes they found, and what lead them to a faulty tank pump, but that info has not been forthcoming. I did not know anything about the overheating until I got that email. . It had not been mentioned before. So......it went down there with fault code 1 ( fuel quantity adaptation ) but has had new tank pump, glow plugs, investigation of this that and something else, but the damn problem it went there with is, I assume, still there. Is there any light at the end of this tunnel????

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To my recollection they did not give me a quote for the tank pump. Told me it was faulty and that the code I told them my local garage had picked up was for that and not the FIP. I probably said do it thinking that it might be the real problem. I have asked how they came to the conclusion that the code referred to the tank pump and not the FIP, but have had no answer to that. I know the glow plugs were not essential to be done now but thought they just as well do them as they had tested them and they would have needed replacing for the winter.

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As to the make of the pump I don't know. Now there is the issue of overheating and faulty water pump. I would like to know when the road test was done. I was told that there were bits and pieces to be put back before I could take it away which leads me to believe that the road test must have been earlier on in this ruddy mess. If that were the case why hasn't the overheating been flagged up before. What bits and pieces I do not know. Overheating had not been a problem before. I know that there is no issue with starting now as it apparently starts like new!!!! They do appear to be still part way down the road of a throttle problem.

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Shipley -> your house.
Goodbye PowerDrivel.

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Morat wrote:

Shipley -> your house.
Goodbye PowerDrivel.

I just did a quote on Shiply using the addresses on the estimate - came in at £128.

More quotes should come in soon.

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Thank you. Next decision. What to do with it??

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If you're one of those people who needs to "trust" their car probably sell it, but get someone competent to fix it either way or you'll lose ton more money.

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Well. Are there any suggestions on who or where to go to get the problems sorted.

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I really like the car. It is in good condition for the year. The interior is in good order, ( apart from the saggy lining) and for me, it is comfortable to drive. It is useful, when it is working, I have spent a lot on it. I could decide to get something else and end up with more problems. My previous 2 RR never caused me all the trouble that I have had with this one. Anyway first need to get it fixed.