I found the same, the hex hole in the end of the ARP studs is an Imperial size and I spent hours searching for my Imperial hex key set (that probably hasn't been used in at least 15 years) before finding that a random star bit would fit. 80NM is 60ft/lbs so probably a bit on the low side, I torqued mine to 65ft/lbs so 85-90NM would probably be closer to where you want to be.
Yup, magnetic tool for fishing dropped nuts and washers out from the valley is definitely a must have.
Dont start throwing ft/lbs at me. I thought I was doing well following the manufacturer's spec.
Ok, swear box has started, I just re-read the instructions after you stating ft/lbs and gues what, its 80ft/lbs not Nm's
I bloody read it twice before as well.
Oh well there goes my too good to be true day.
General consensus seems to be that 80ft/lbs on an alloy head and block with a composite gasket is probably a touch on the high side with 65-70 being nearer the mark. As you should have done them up a bit at a time (I did something like 35-50-65) then a quick tweak won't do any harm (as long as you haven't bolted too many other bits on so you can't easily get to them all....).
Fortunately I can just remove the rockers. I think my Torque only goes to 90 nm anyway.
Didnt need to remove the rockers, so all a bit tighter, just hope my torque wrench is accurate as the extra 10nm didnt seem much different.
Todays gaff. There is a reason why you leave the rocker covers till last as I discovered.
You cant get the front exhaust pipes back in on the drivers side if you do. Fortunately I managed to squeeze it up through the wheel arch instead.
Getting the lower inlet manifold in with the rocker covers in place isn't easy either. But it does stop you dropping more bits down into the holes......
All back together. Good news is , it started and sounds sweet.
Bad news is the xmas tree lights are on. I suspect I have had a lot of water ingress through the pollen filter cover and its affected the electrics.
I cant fully test the car until I get enough coolant , tomorrow hopefully.
I am a bit suspicious of the coolant Ive been buying, Its only €10 for 5 litres and thats actually the more expensive one but it states -25 to + 125, Should I be looking at a more specific type?
What colour is it? If it's the blue or green stuff, it'll be Ethylene Glycol so should be fine. I've noticed that you can only buy pre-mixed coolant in France whereas here we can buy a concentrate that you add water to. Obviously some sort of safety ruling but it seems odd to me that you can't buy coolant concentrate yet you can buy a bottle of Hydrochloric Acid in Carrefour.......
What Christmas tree have you got lit?
Yeah, I had looked for concentrate TNA. I think its green but it might also be yellow, will double check.
I thought there was only one set of xmas lights? Its all the EAS plus the disengage/off button.
Its not looking good.
Still the same problem.
Just spent 2 hours trying to bleed it and still continuous air coming through. I can hear gurgling in the expansion tank but oddly cant see it bubbling.
If I leave the engine running for more than 2 mins it will overflow again.
Pretty much everything but the Block has been changed and thats a job too much for me.
Not sure how easy it will be to sell for spares/repairs in this country as usually you have to get an MOT to sell it regardless if it passes but I wont be able to get that if I cant even drive it.
I will keep trying to the end of the week otherwise its Au Revoir .
So sorry to hear this.
I guess a short block from Turner is out of the question?
There's something not right here. From the look of things when you took it apart, it didn't appear that you have a liner problem (which is far rarer than some would have you believe). They can be a real bugger to bleed if the cooling system has been completely drained and I suspect that is the problem you still have.
Oh I hope you are right Richard, I really dont want to give up on it especially as Ive done so much to it but I cant help think the problem is elsewhere.
The RAVE makes it sounds easy to bleed. Question, Rave states to stop when the top hose gets warm, how important is this as It hardly gives me a chance to get the circulation going if I do.
This has been an ongoing saga Spiggy. I cant afford to put any more into it plus I only have the curb to work on it but thanks for the thought.
Might give this a try. Coolant Vacuum filler. Any one used one?
Top hose shouldn't get warm until the thermostat opens. The procedure in RAVE is a bit simplistic. My way of doing it is to disconnect the top hose and fill the engine block through there. When that is full, reconnect it and fill the tank. With the bleed hose from the top of the radiator disconnected, squeeze the top hose, plug the nipple on the radiator with your finger and release the top hose. This will blow air out of the nipple and draw coolant in from the tank. Keep doing this (and topping up the tank) until coolant flows from the nipple then connect the pipe to the tank (after blowing through it first to make sure it is clear). Then carry on squeezing and releasing the top hose but plugging the little hole just inside the tank filler neck to continue blowing air out and sucking coolant in. Once you are getting a constant stream of coolant through, give the hose a few squeezes and listen for any gurgling or bubbling anywhere. If you can hear any, there's still air in there so start the engine, let it run for 20-30 seconds and switch off. That should move any air around and let you bleed it out. Once there's no gurgling noises, then start the engine. With the tank cap off, let it idle and check the hoses. The first hose to start getting warm should be the one from the inlet manifold to the heater. Make sure that is getting warm and shortly afterwards the return from the heater should start to get warm too. Some coolant may come out of the tank due to simple thermal expansion, but it will just be a small dribble, not a volcanic explosion and definitely not with any bubbles. Run for a short time until you can feel the top hose getting warm. Switch off and let it cool down
Top up the tank if it needs it and put the cap on. Let the engine run and feel the hoses. The top hose will get hot and will get firm. It'll be firm, not rock hard if you've got all the air out.
I tried all methods posted on here before and now TNA.
I have found the Draper Coolant Vacuum for £45 so will give that a go and at least that will clear my conscience that I tried all possible before getting rid.
Do you have a source of compressed air for the Draper Vacuum kit Paul? Only ask as you mentioned you're working out on the kerb earlier...
Ive been wanting to get a compressor for a long time, so now is a good excuse. £60 for this Einhell seems ok.