Ok, thanks for explaining about the door locks. Have tried syncing the fob again and unfortunately still won’t work.

I am probably wrong but did the later models have a slightly different method to sync the key-fob by inserting it in the ignition barrel and pressing the unlock button? Or am I thinking of a completely different vehicle?

I think you just have to put the key in the ignition and turn it to position 2.

That's right, I think it is 2000 model or later, although that does assume the coil around the lock barrel hasn't broken, which it often has.

Yes mine is an S reg, still stuck with this problem.

Smiler wrote:

I am probably wrong but did the later models have a slightly different method to sync the key-fob by inserting it in the ignition barrel and pressing the unlock button? Or am I thinking of a completely different vehicle?

Not quite, and it depends on the year Smiler, as in the "Sync. Procedures" note in:

http://www.reset.rover-tech.info/rangerover_keyfob.htm

Frank's is a '97 and might be either (?!)

I wouldn't believe that guide, both methods are wrong. The first method is a little more complicated than that and the second method does not synchronise an out of sync fob, it is merely the normal operation if passive immobilisation is enabled. It stops you being asked to press Unlock or enter the EKA if you unlocked the car but didn't start it immediately so the passive immobilisation kicked in and immobilised it again.

Yes, both methods described 'leave something to be desired' (such as in the first one you have to turn the key to Lock/Unlock position whilst pressing the appropriate fob button..)

The main point though is that as Frank's is a '97 which type is it ?

(And I am sure it must be mentioned elsewhere but I do wish LR had written that "passive immobilisation" is simply
just a fancy name for having an RF pick-up coil aroud the ignition barrel..... ie 'passive' is basically a misnomer too !

My head is a complete shed! Lol...

davew wrote:

(And I am sure it must be mentioned elsewhere but I do wish LR had written that "passive immobilisation" is simply
just a fancy name for having an RF pick-up coil aroud the ignition barrel..... ie 'passive' is basically a misnomer too !

But it isn't. It is passive in as much as the immobiliser kicks in if you unlock the door but don't start the engine within a set time so it is passive as it doesn't require any input from the driver, it is merely timed. There's a number of ways the locking and immobilisation works.

If you unlock the car on the fob, the immobiliser is turned off and the doors unlocked but if you don't open a door within 30 seconds, the car will lock itself again and set the immobiliser. It assumes you pressed the button by accident and this prevents you unlocking the car with your key in your pocket and walking away leaving it unlocked.

If you unlock the car with the fob, open a door but don't start the engine within 30 seconds, one of two things will happen. If passive immobilisation is enabled on an early car, the immobiliser kicks in after 30 seconds and when you do eventually try to start the car the dash will display Press Remote or Enter Code. At this point you need to either press the unlock button on the fob again or enter the EKA code to turn the immobiliser off before it will let you start the car (there is a third option which is to get out of the car, close the doors, lock it with the fob, unlock it again with the fob and start it within 30 seconds).

On the later cars when you turn the ignition on, the coil around the ignition sends a magnetic pulse which is picked up by the large surface mount Inductor on the end of the fob PCB which causes the fob to automatically transmit the unlock code. This is picked up by the receiver mounted under the RH rear parcel shelf just the same as when you unlocked it. So it isn't an RF pick-up coil at all, it is there purely to generate a magnetic field. You can see it operate as the LED on the fob will flash when you turn the key in the ignition.

If passive immobilisation is turned off in the BeCM, then you can unlock the car and as long as you open a door within 30 seconds, it doesn't matter how long you wait before trying to start the car, the immobiliser was turned off when you unlocked it and it doesn't turn back on. In that case, you will never get the Press Remote of Enter Code message on an early car and the fob will not transmit when in the ignition on a later one.

Possibly semantics Richard but you have to admit the LR related descriptions are ‘unclear at best’ too…. and so we all need a Forum to understand them as the Owners Manuals are rather ambivalent (and possibly deliberately ) ?!

-My comment was again made primarily in the context of “synchronisation” ie. for the earlier models you can do this via the door lock/fob, later ones use the ignition lock/fob combination.

-Accordingly the earlier type uses the RF receiver/fob and the later uses RFID/coil techniques: Overall therefore on the earlier type we have to press (non-passive) the fob button to sync (whilst it is in the door lock) to resync whereas on the later ones,as this is done passively......

Anyway, this is till not much help for Frank - who is probably thinking ‘WTF ?’ by now…
Frank:
When in ‘97 was the car first registered ?
(I’m now guessing early half)
Is the Blue (antenna) wire to the Alarm Receiver actually fitted ?

(To repeat what has been said before the fob won't resync if the alarm receiver is inoperative, notably on earlier vehicles)

Hi, I’ve had a look and the car was first registered on 02 02 1999 but it’s on an S reg. I’ve checked that the blue wire is attached and I’ve replaced the batteries in the fob. It’s looking quite good now. I’ve giving it a good clean, I’ve machine polished the whole car, replaced the 16 inch wheels for hurricanes, repainted the grille and bumpers. It’s dark blue with cream interior, I am getting used to it but still just taking it out for short trips of a few miles as I don’t want to get stuck anywhere.

A-ha ! Then it is definitely one of the later types Frank (so some of the above is definitely irrelevant) !

So.... what messages (eg "Engine Disabled") come up when you open the car and insert the key in the ignition ?

Hi again, just been out to do it and it says engine disabled when I try to crank it.

Frank, so it sounds like the S reg plate that is on it is a personal plate that someone has put on it and not the original. If you want to PM me the VIN, I can put it into Microcat which should give the registration number it was first registered with.

But, that still doesn't help you with getting the fob to work so you no longer have to use the EKA. The method of syncing the fob in the door lock works on all cars right up to the end of production, the later cars don't sync the fob it merely turns off passive immobilisation automatically. If the fob batteries have been changed then it will need to be synced. It uses a rolling code so will have lost sync when the old batteries were removed. First you need to check if the fob is transmitting and if the receiver is receiving. Sit in the car somewhere dark and look at the LED next to the gear lever, it will be glowing dimly. Wait 2 minutes and it will go out completely, signifying that the BeCM has gone to sleep. While watching the LED next to the gear lever, press a button on the fob. If the LED doesn't come back on dimly, the receiver is not getting the signal from the fob either because it isn't transmitting anything or the receiver isn't receiving it (but, as you've already replaced it, it is unlikely you've suffered 2 faulty ones).

If the LED comes back on dimly, then the fob is transmitting a code, the receiver is receiving it, it is just that the code is wrong. Now it may be that it is wrong because the two components have lost sync, in which case they need to be synced, or, someone has swapped the fob (and probably locks) for one from a different car. In which case it won't be possible to sync as the code in the fob doesn't match the code programmed into the BeCM. If the latter, then it is possible to change the lockset bar code programmed into the BeCM but that can only be done by a specialist such as Marty (and possibly Sloth?) who would need the fob (to read the fob code) and the BeCM (to programme with the correct code).

However, with a 99 car, then it definitely will be possible to enter the EKA with a Nanocom and, hopefully, once it has been entered, you won't need to enter it every time if you lock with the key. However, be cautious, the fact that it doesn't always take the EKA suggests that the microswitches in the latch are starting to get worn so don't always respond as they should so it could still leave you locked out one day.

Irrelevant waffle deleted! Coffee time :)

Thanks, will test that tonight, have sent you the vin.

Hi again, I’ve just tested the car in the dark as you said and the becm went to sleep after two minutes. When I pressed either of the fob buttons there was no response from the becm, it stayed off.

In that case either the fob isn't transmitting or the receiver isn't receiving a signal from it. I've got a known good receiver I can send you to try if you think it might help.

Had a look at your VIN and the S reg is correct. Haven't checked it on Microcat yet (as the laptop with it on is also loaded with my sat nav update software and I lent it to my daughter) but from the serial number it is a 98 model car and the number would put it towards the end of production for a 98. My car is an early production 98 model and was built in November 97 but not registered until March 1998. Model year production started around October the previous year so I would suspect yours was built around September 98. So it has a registration number relevant to the year as S reg runs from 1st August 1998 until 28 Feb 1999.

Thanks for the offer of that. I bought another receiver from eBay which I will swap over tomorrow and then test again when it’s dark. If that doesn’t work either it may be worth trying yours which is known good. Thanks for your help so far, will get back to you.