Says £149 on that link so £60 would be a bit of a bargain! As you're buying used, watch for any rattles- these oil-free ones are harder on the bottom ends than the "wet sump" models. <br>
Can't see the CFM for it. You really want at least 6 to run any air tools. Air saws, drills and even windy guns will give an asthmatic wheeze after a few seconds otherwise!
That's a hell of a deal, buy it from Germany for a third of the UK price.
If you can squeeze hoses and still hear movement, there's air in there. It should be silent if all you are moving is coolant.
Always worth checking all the Amazon sites. DE. IT. SE OR FR.
Ive even bought UK imports yet it was still miles cheaper on Amazon.FR compared to Amazon.UK where it was being Imported from.
Always a problem.
The compressor and coolant vacuum both arrived today but the airline wont fit the vacuum due to them having slightly different connections.
The one on the Draper Vacuum is too small and wont clamp. I thought I could try swap one from the accessories that came with the compressor but the thread is slightly smaller than the draper and air escapes, so I guess I now need to try find an adapter.
Is this because the Draper is British and the compressor German I wonder?
Yes -and the shorter ones are usually called 'Euro' connectors (but you find both types in the UK, Both are called "quick release" types though...)
Adapters are a few pounds/euros; Most standard old type is 1/4"BSP (so tapered thread, ie. use PTFE tape to seal !)
Anywhere that supplies Spray Painting stuff will sell these,
This page :- http://airpowered.co.uk/aircouplingidentification.htm - may help resolve the confusion. Your long one is "real" PCL (the original makers initials) and the one I'd advise you to standardise on as its certainly the easiest to find in the UK and still very common on the continent. Its rare to find badly made ones that don't fit properly. Short one is supposed to be Euro but some suppliers call them PCL-Euro which is very confusing (yes Draper this means you). XF couplings look the same as Euro to a casual glance. No idea if they are interchangeable as I routinely bin anything that isn't PCL although the higher airflow of Schrader ones is sometimes tempting but am I gonna change 20 or so sets over. Nope! These pages may be of interest :- http://www.pclairtechnology.com/products/couplings-adaptors/interchange-range/ - and :- http://www.pclairtechnology.com/products/couplings-adaptors/ .
Not impressed by euro style couplings on cheap imports as quality and size is all over the place. Had to change out some for other folk when the accessories in a one box compressor kit accessories didn't fit the line supplied! To make matters worse the threads were Admiralty size and TPI with SAE style 60° threads. Which took a deal of tracking down as I've not seen a genuine Admiralty thread out in the wild of 40 years and that kit was old then so I'd completely forgotten the standard existed. Shame its fallen out of use as it's handy for odd sized stuff.
Should be BSP thread on the end of adapters. Usually taper on a PCL male nose. Equipment tapped holes tend to be parallel so you need a male female adapter for the taper thread. Euro style is often parallel to easily screw direct into kit. Have run into cheap stuff with a sort of half'n half tapered - parallel thread which fits neither unless gobbed up with lots of PTFE tape.
I really need to charge more for sorting out "friends" cheap crap. Then maybe they'd listen and buy a bit further up market.
Clive
Thanks for both info. I think its a 1/2" but I have contacted Draper for spec. Just more annoying than anything as its more waiting around.
Used the Vacuum today, it held at the recommended air level so supposedly no air leaks but only the top and bottom hoses collapsed under vacuum, not sure if more should?
Guess what...... Its still buggered, I can still hear gurgling through the expansion tank when I turn the engine on and it still overflowes .
Time to get Blue Peter with your compressor... <br>
Knock the centre out of an old spark plug <br>
Araldite a bit of tube of a suitable size to the plug that will fit your air hose without leaking <br>
Connect to air line, shut off compressor outlet valve and pressurise compressor to 90ish psi <br>
Get #1 cylinder on compression stroke (ie both valves closed) <br>
Screw your spark plug/ airline combo into the plug hole tight enough to seal <br>
Take top off expansion tank, system full of water <br>
Open compressor outlet valve to pressurise cylinder then close<br>
Watch for bubbles in header tank <br>
If no bubbles, has pressure held in cylinder? <br>
Small chance engine will try to turn over when you do the above so lock crank off by convenient means. It won't try to turn hard but you don't really want it moving <br>
Repeat for other 7 cylinders <br>
If you don't get bubbles in tank and pressure seems to hold, chances are your block/ liners are OK and something somewhere is airlocked
Let us know how you get on...
Thanks OB, Its sounds like something I can manage.
It has been confirmed that its a slipped liner.
Time to end this love n hate relationship and stop pumping more money into it, shame as Ive literally replaced everything on it but the block.
Now the fun begins trying to sell it in France. I cant believe the prices of them here though , between €7k and €11k so hopefully I should get something for it as it is.
only £950 for V8 developments to top hat your old block.... include new cam bearings and core plugs...
I know it's still not cheap, but it might be cheaper than starting from scratch with something else... and a lot cheaper than a new short engine, especially if you've already renewed most of the other bits!
Better the devil you know... although I fully understand that a potential top hat job is a real kick in the nuts :(
Maybe a realistic estimate to have all the work done would be helpful here?
Do I detect the hint of a Dijon summercamp, in the winter, coming up?
y'know.. I was just wondering how to tie it in... Dijon not being far from my folks...
(not that I'm any earthly use at rebuilding engines but I'm sure I could polish things)
Just out of interest, how has the slipped liner been diagnosed?
Thanks for the support , If I were in the Uk I would have probably tackled it but due to circumstances etc here, its just not viable.
I had a mechanic come round after I stripped it back down again who noticed that one of the pistons was shiny clean and the liner wasnt flush.
Though I couldnt feel the liner myself it makes sense I guess. I had cleaned the pistons before and this particular piston cleaned up real quick and shiny compared to the others which should have rang bells I guess.
It's a bit of a bugger you need it now, I'm just about to get mine top hat lined, and have a 60d bottom end that's coming out, I only bought it so I was mobile while I built my original engine up, will have a chat with Dave down at east coast rangies, if he's got any slipped liner blocks , might be able to sort out a cheap block that can go straight to v8 developments, then on to you, let me know what you think..
Thats a grand gesture Chris and I am grateful for the support. It is just not viable for me here due to circumstances. Thanks all the same.