Aloha,
Well, today's job is putting all of the EAS bits back on the Borrego!
So far so good, I have determined the method used to place it in Manual mode, and reversed that damage.
It looks like they also unplugged the switches on the dash.....
Gotta tear into the centre console for that one. I do have it raising and lowering nicely and no leaks found so far.
NOW, I have been trying to figure out the initial reason they were convinced to castrate it in the first place......
Looks like (Per Nano) the RH front sensor reads 24 no matter its position. no deviation at all. So, a wiring issue.
Nano throws a fault for out of Range sensor. Pot tests good on the bench.
Question is: just how many potentially corroded plugs do those 3 wires go through on the way to the controller???
I cannot access Rave at this moment......If no feedback soon, I will attack the kick panel plugs on both sides.
I also cannot seem to log on to the Pub on my Android tablet in the shop. Seems to have something to do with Catptha?
Cheers,
Tom
There's no connections at all between height sensors and ECU. Front right connects directly to pins 21, 23 and 24 (24 is common to all 4 sensors). 21 to 24 is each end of the pot while 23 is the wiper. Colours are pin 21, Orange/Purple, pin 23, Orange/Yellow and pin 24 Black/Pink. The 4 Black/Pink wires join at splice S116 but I've no idea where that lives I'm afraid.
Thanks for the timely information!
OK, As painful as I find this, I will have to disclose just what the "Wiring issue" was.........There was NO sensor on the LEFT side........
The Nano was telling me the issue was on the Left side, I saw that, and walked around the front to the RIGHT side as faced from the front....
Several times!!
Oops, Total and complete brain fart!!!
I had removed both sensors some time ago to attempt to help out Kulture with his EAS........I knew the RH one was missing, so had re installed it........Did not bother to turn my head to look at the glaring blank space on the other side......Sighhhhhhhh..........................
So, one standard issue "Dope Slap" for myself!
Now, I have the EAS working very well with a couple of odd issues.
Here goes:
1 All 4 of the lights on the dash switch illuminate at all times (EAS dash switch has been pried open and epoxied back shut by a PO)
2 The Compressor is cycling frequently, like every 15-30 seconds. There are no leaks.
3 Per Nano: Running or not, Compressor always shows as "ON" Pressure switch shows as "OPEN" Thermal Switch "Normal"
4 "Park / Handbrake" indicates "ON" no matter what position it is in. Dash indicator for Handbrake works fine.
5 "Extended height" symbol on dash is illuminated at all times.
I swapped ECUs and the only difference is that the Inhibit switch started working normally.
I may try ECU from Bolt as well as Dash switch to eliminate those if no one has an insight??
Took it for an on /off road test, and it is back to having that Schweet "glide of a ride!" Also, self adjusts based upon speed as normal, just cannot tell from the switch indicators....
Cheers,
Tom
All 4 lights and the Extended Height symbol on the dash usually signifies a fault but that would usually be accompanied with EAS FAULT on the dash. There's two fault modes depending on what the ECU thinks it has seen. In one mode it drops to the bumpstops, gives all 4 lights, the warning on the dash and the 35 MPH Max, the other mode puts it into High and gives the same indication with the 35 MPH Max message. In either case it wouldn't be adjusting height with speed though.
It does sound like an ECU problem, or there's still some extra wiring that you haven't found and removed yet. Nano should be able to tell you if the compressor is running or not and this will coincide with the pressure switch OPEN or CLOSED indication. Wiring from the ECU to the switch and display goes via the connector behind the LH kick panel. In your case this would be the one on the drivers side, left as sitting in the car, the side with that big round thing you use to make it go round corners.....
The adventure continues.......
This morning, all was as yesterday, then I switched out the ECU from Bolt (Known Working) and the problem remained.
All 4 lights on, The dash showing High position, compressor cycling, and Nano showing switch as "OPEN" but Compressor as "ON"
When I swapped back in the other ECU, the lights all went out. The dash indicator saying High Mode went out as well......Compressor still whacked out....
Now the dash indicator does not illuminate even when Extended height is selected.
The switches still work as normal and it will go from Access to Low Profile, Standard and Extended just fine.
Inhibit switch works too.
I got into the LEFT side kick panel (The side with the big turny thing on it) and found the connectors to be pretty nice.
I gave them a good scrub with Meths and applied a bit of Silicone grease for future protection.
No change. Odd observation though........If I push the inhibit switch the Led turns on as normal, however unplugging both the plugs in the LH kick does nor extinguish the light on the switch??
I have inspected the looms in the door sill, and opened up the plug on the ECU....All look good.
It would seem the wiring to the dash switch possibly has a different route?
I will drop the panel under the wheel and have a poke around there.......
Somewhere there is a reason the PO castrated it....just gotta find it!
Does the driver pack play into this at all? I have 2 complete spare EAS under bonnet boxes......
Oh, I found the delay relay was faulty.......
Cheers!
Power to the inhibit switch comes directly from the fusebox, so doesn't go via the connector on the Port side. It's a dual pole switch, one pole simply brings the light on.
Driver pack isn't involved as all it does is convert low current signals from the ECU into high current ones to operate the solenoids.
Just had a look at the diagram thinking that the feeds for the 4 lights would come on 4 different wires but they don't, there's electronics within the rocker switch/display unit so the fact that someone has been inside it suggests that may be where the fault lies.
Thanks, I have been tearing into things and have one point of contention......You said:
"Wiring from the ECU to the switch and display goes via the connector behind the LH kick panel. In your case this would be the one on the drivers side, left as sitting in the car, the side with that big round thing you use to make it go round corners...."
If this is the case, then I would expect that unplugging both of the LH connectors would extinguish the lights........
I was able to get the switch lights to go out by unplugging the larger of the 2 white plugs on the Right side kick panel...(That's the side that all of your cars have the turny thing installed erroneously on......)
In any case, When I came back to it after posting (and lunch) I found that the only light on was the top one, and the dash indicator for Extended mode was on......Nothing would change this condition, and all worked normally any way.
Unplugged the ECU to clean and grease contacts, wiggled wires under the dash and when i switched on again, the upper 3 lights are on, and not the bottom most......
I will swap out the switch with my known good one and report back.......
This is an interesting one!!
At least I know all the kick panel connectors are clean!
Cheers!
Tom
Power to the switch and display goes via the RH one, the data signals go via the LH one. I had a dodgy connection in the LH one on the Ascot, every time I went over a bump the height light would go out, then come back with all 4, then go back to just one, all accompanied by three beeps and EAS Fault coming up on the dash.
I think in future we should stick to Port and Starboard, that way there shouldn't be any confusion....
Did you remove the jumper harness on the BeCM end that gets put in with a swap to springs?
He says he has, but there's two ways to achieve it, either with the harness that plugs into the BeCM or with two wire jumpers on the plug to the EAS ECU. Difference is the harness costs around £50 and two bits of wire cost a lot less than that but they both do the same job. I can't see anyone fitting both but it's always possible I suppose.
Thanks Marshall, that was actually job #1 soldering the Blue/white and Blue/Pink wires back together.
So..........
I could not face tearing out the centre console of Bolt yet again, so I trundled over to the local breakers yard where they have had an 98 for about 18 months now.....Not much good left at this point.
Got both the height switch module and just for fun, the inhibit switch both for 10 bucks. Got Lucky!!
Got back, cleaned the grime off the adjuster and plugged it in.......Instant gratification!
As you have observed, Gilbert, there is a bunch going on inside that module. It does a self test of all 4 leds on Ign on, then settles down to the correct spot. It also appears that the Binnacle display may be driven by it as well since in testing, whenever the top LED is on, no matter what else is on, the binnacle symbol comes up as well.
Now, to go out and put all wires and trim back, after giving the sill channels a good clean of course!
The compressor is still doing odd short cycles, but that is gonna be tomorrows job!
In all, I found the delay relay failed, the EAS controller is dodgy as it shows inhibit at all times, There was a serious leak at the front most tube collet on the valve body, and, of course, someone got clever with the switch module....destroying it!
All up, it is ~almost~ understandable (If totally inexcusable) that the PO put on springs.......
Total out of pocket to put it back? $227.00 and about 8 hours total labor. The worst part was removing the stupid springs without a proper tool!
Anyone wanna buy a set of slightly used OME springs? Cheep!
Thanks for the help!
Cheers,
Tom
Gilbertd wrote:
He says he has, but there's two ways to achieve it, either with the harness that plugs into the BeCM or with two wire jumpers on the plug to the EAS ECU. Difference is the harness costs around £50 and two bits of wire cost a lot less than that but they both do the same job. I can't see anyone fitting both but it's always possible I suppose.
They used the "Cut the Blue/white Blue/pink wires at the Becm, Earth one and run the other to B+ to put it in manual" method.
Nice one. Yes, there is a connection to the BeCM from the switch/display unit so that is obviously what tells it to put the light up on the dash.
Re the compressor kicking in every so often. Has the valve block been rebuilt as a slight leak through the diaphragm valve could cause the pressure in the reservoir to drop gradually so the compressor will be caused to kick in by the pressure switch. Or it might just be a pressure switch with a particularly narrow hysteresis.
Drivers side, passenger side I never use.
Left side or right as sitting in vehicle. It's the way they are described in the factory.
No confusion then!
:)
Or at least there shouldn't be, even though Bolt admitted that he walked around to the front of the car and looked at the RH side as looking at it......
Gilbertd wrote:
Or at least there shouldn't be, even though Bolt admitted that he walked around to the front of the car and looked at the RH side as looking at it......
I did laugh to myself lol
tanis8472 wrote:
Gilbertd wrote:
Or at least there shouldn't be, even though Bolt admitted that he walked around to the front of the car and looked at the RH side as looking at it......
I did laugh to myself lol
Yea, well, I laughed at myself pretty good at the time too!
I was just VERY happy it was something as simple as confusing oneself, not a broken wire somewhere!
Had to confess my screw up to Gilbert, knowing he would be merciful ;)........(Big round thing indeed!)
It has occurred to me that as i have calibrated the EAS on both of these beasts this AM, I now have 2 P-38s that.......
EVERY SINGLE LITTLE DETAILED BIT WORKS!!!!!!
No issues of any type with any system on either one! Fully functioning factory stock DSP stereos as well!
I am Sooooo HAPPY, yet being at the pinnacle of P-38 ownership, where do we go from here??????
I mean, What could possibly go wrong?
Cheers!
Tom
Glad to hear you have it all sorted now x2.
There will be another niggle. It's inversely proportional to the square root of pi.
Bolt wrote:
I mean, What could possibly go wrong?
Something, anything. I leave the non-squirting rear washer on mine so it is happy in the knowledge that it isn't quite perfect. I know damn well if I renewed the pipe so it doesn't constantly clog up, it would find something else, almost certainly more important, to fail.
Sighhhhh...............
I had forgotten about my rear washer.........And, YEA, I know I Was asking for it!
HOWEVER, that is not important.....
I made a quick run to the hardware store, and noticed a drip from a strange place.
Thought it was AC drain, but no....The small spigot on the bottom of the expansion tank has split 50% of the way and coolant was spraying out in a fine mist, and dripping down the frame...Caught it in plenty of time.
Question is:
What is a decent replacement? OEM is stupid money, and I have no experience with any of the others.
Partsgeek offers a large selection for reasonable $$.
Any thoughts?