Afternoon all

Now I know my little project is in pieces.

I need to get my key repaired as it is a right mess.

I can open the drivers door with the key.

This allows me to unlock the tailgate.
It also allows me to open the front passenger door from the inside. But not the outside.

The rear doors however won't unlock.

Is this linked to only opening with the key and also the fob not working.

Or

Is this more likely also a faulty drivers door latch which I've learnt controls and sends info to the BECM.

If I have got any of that wrong, please forgive me haha

I am still trying to work out what the previous owner was looking for when he stripped it out.

If the keyswitch in the drivers latch has died then all turning the key will do is unlock the drivers door. The CDL switch must be OK as that supplies a ground to the tailgate latch when the drivers door is unlocked. If you can't open the rear doors by pulling up the button then they are most likely superlocked so need to be unlocked electrically. As the drivers door panel is already off, half the job is already done. With a decent battery connected, unpliug the larger of the two plugs that connects to the driver door latch. On the plug that connects to the latch, find the Green/Red and Blue/Red wires. Poke a bit on wire into the plug to connect to these two (paperclip works well), connect a random length of wire to your paperclip and ground the other end. This simulates the signal for the key being turned in the lock and should operate the central locking to pop all doors open. They will lock again when you take the ground off unless you leave the Green/Red wire grounded.

Marvellous

Thanks rich

I didnt know if it was due to a poorly key fob. But thats worth a shot this evening.

I had a 60 amp maxi fuse blown under the bonnet. Once I replaced this. I got access to the tailgate and rear windows.

Just to play with the paperclip and should prove out they work.

On the topic of electrickery.

I noticed the passenger airbag unplugged.

Guessing best to reconnect whilst battery is off ?

Yeah, probably not a good idea to plug it in while the system is powered up.....

Poorly key fob isn't a good idea as the system was designed assuming everyone would always use the fob to lock and unlock so the mechanical linkage isn't designed to be used all the time. If you've got more than one key, or can get a blade cut (it uses a BMW blank), this guy https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Repair-refurbishment-fix-for-Range-Rover-P38-remote-flip-key-fob-new-case/402234621797 will refurb your existing one.

Had him on my watch list already so thats good to know.

Didn't know about the bmw blank though. Thats worth doing before sending off.

I got one cut at my local Timsons so I can use that if I ever lose my one and only fob. As I'm far more likely to lose it while I'm hundreds of miles from home, the blade is attached to the underside of the car in a place where I can find it but nobody else will (if they even thought to look for it). I know I'd need to enter the EKA to start the car (I assume you've got the EKA for yours?) and nobody would be able to guess that.

No i don't have the EKA.

Thats my next question to be honest.

I hear you have to get it from a LR dealer ??

Yes, take the V5 into a main dealer and ask them for the printout. That will give you the EKA, radio code, lockset bar code, manufacture date, spec, etc.

Super.

Il go see the brightsparks at Hatfield and see what they say

I got all my info off LR through messenger, had to give them a few details, otherwise was straight forward

no10chris wrote:

I got all my info off LR through messenger, had to give them a few details, otherwise was straight forward

Which messenger ?

Just an update for everyone that may be useful

I have rang three LR franchises this afternoon looking to obtain a copy of my EKA code and they no longer have them on their system, apparently due to LR removing the historic info from the network.

I did however get a very helpful response from LR itself using this email address lradvice@jaguarlandrover.com

Where they will accept a couple of photos of my V5 then hopefully let me know the EKA

Just a heads up if anyone was wanting to obtain the code if they no longer have it saved etc

Dan

Btw, the rear doors are operated directly by the becm once the becm sees the drivers door unlock.

Would the becm see the drivers door open with the key alone or does it have to be the keyfob.

Either, but it only sees the doors being unlocked with the key by seeing the signals from the microswitches in the latch. So if either the Key switch or CDL switch is dead the BeCM doesn't see the correct signals so doesn't unlock the rear doors. If unlocked with the fob, the correct signal is seen by the BeCM directly from the central locking receiver.

Did you try grounding the two wires as I mentioned earlier in post #2?

Not yet big guy. I popped to near Manchester today to pick up 4 more hurricane alloys so went the scenic route around all the reservoirs and A628 I think It was.

I still need to short the wire out to test them

They were just named landrover,

What was

OK I will try and explain this the best I can. See where it goes or what other evidence I need to provide.

Got the key back refurbished.

Followed the synch process.

Little Red light flashed quickly on the remote. But immobiliser light stayed constant pace.

When I locked the car using the key.

The front and back lights flash. I assume to indicate its locked. It didn't do that before. So something has changed.

Put the key in the ignition and i no longer get the key code locked message.

So the problem is I believe with a previous owners tampering.

They have installed a push button start which draws power from the battery and then a spade terminal is in one of the locations where the starter motor relay should be under the bonnet.

If I was to turn the key like normal. I get engine disabled on the display. Then press remote button or enter key code flashes across.

I can turn the ignition off. Turn back on. Foot on the break. Press the magic silver button and she fires up.

Ok so I know that works.

But the immobiliser light still flashes even when the engines running. Also the remote central locking doesn't work. Even though I assume it is detecting the key due to the changes.

Will he of butchered or unplugged perhaps the RF reciever under the steering wheel to by-pass the silver start button. Or where can I start to at least problem solve getting the remote central locking to work and prove the reciever is connected etc.

I know its alot to put out in one post but there we have it.

I plus have an abs fault light and srs light up. Need to trace the faults for them. I know the eas light error is on. Can someone also confirm this is why I get the message 35mph limit only message.

Again I'm sorry for wizardry questions

Indicators flashing when you lock and unlock is normal so something is improving.

You only get Keycode Lockout if the BeCM is in an alarmed state and the battery is reconnected. It goes out after 10 minutes n an early car, 30 minutes on a later one.

Easy way to check if the receiver is working is to sit in the car in the dark, close the door and look at the LED next to the gear lever (the one that shows what gear you are in). It will be glowing very dimly (that's why you need to wait until it is dark). 2 minutes after you close the door, the light should go out completely. Press a button on the fob. If the light comes back on glowing dimly, the receiver is seeing the signal from the fob, if it doesn't come back on, it isn't. The receiver isn't under the steering wheel but under the RH side rear panel. Drop the back seat and you should see a screw holding the front of the shelf panel in, take that out and lift the panel, the receiver is the small box sitting under there. It has two plugs going into it, a 3 way and a single blue wire. Make sure they are both plugged in. When you put the panel back down, make sure the pushbutton to release the rear seat pokes through the hole and doesn't fall down inside.

The message on the dash, engine immobilised, etc measn it shouldn't allow the starter yto turn to the pushbutton has obviously been put there to bypass that. However, if immobilised there should also be no power to the engine ECU so it shouldn't start. God knows what has been done there.....

EAS error will always be accompanied by 35 mph max, so that is nothing to worry about until you get the EAS working as it should. ABS light stays on until you reach 5 mph and the system has checked for valid rotation of all 4 wheels, so if you aren't going anywhere it will stay on. SRS fault means that it has detected a fault but it may have been cleared. Early cars need the fault to be read and cleared even if the fault that was logged has been cleared. Usual problem is if you switched the ignition on with any of the SRS wiring (the stuff in bright yellow sheathing) disconnected.