When I’m driving I am getting a sound from where I believe is underneath and to the rear of the vehicle. It almost sounds like a caliper is dragging but after driving 200 miles there is no discernible heat from the wheel. If I step on brake the sound is there and if I put it in neutral it’s the same. Sound is constant in gear driving, in neutral freewheeling and when I step on brakes. It’s not a high pitch screech sound but more like a constant slight constant grating but definite sound of metal on metal. A heavy type metal. It’s not loud enough to turn people’s heads and my wife in vehicle doesn’t notice it but I do.
There’s no way of recording the sound and it’s impossible to figure out where exactly it’s from so I’m hoping someone here may be able to interpret my issue, vague and all as it may seem.
Hoping it’s not a rear diff issue....
The rear brake back plates on mine made a noise similar to that when they were trying to fall off.
Could also have a look at the UJ's on the prop
Back plates is a good one. They get thin as they rust, and cd easily rub on the brake disc. Bearings Ok?
Rear brake back plates? What am I looking for when I pull back wheel to inspect these? Am I going to be pulling rotor to see the damage?
If you lie on your back under the rear of the car you will either be able to see a black (or more likely v rusty ) metal mud shield which is masking off the inside of the brake disc. Do they have holes in ? (bad sign) have any of the flaky corners bent/ now rubbing on the brake disc. You could remove the wheel for a better view, but I'd lie under it first and have a look. Mine were completely u/s - they're not cheap to replace, even if they must be v cheap to produce.
My rear diff needed doing, but was more of a whine at speed, and a clunk when changing direction in a 3 point turn
When was the last time you changed / checked / greased your U joints?
don't forget the hand brake housing when having a look under their , one of the pads may have come off the brake shoes?
I pulled my dust shields off and left them off..
They do more harm than good IMO..
Found it.....
Inner right rear pad had disintegrated completely.....
Gouged the rotor badly.....
A complete mess back there.
Ive ordered a pair of rear calipers, rotors and pads from a company called RockAuto. Would highly recommend them for parts. Saved me at least 20% from where I could have found the cheapest elsewhere.....
Glad it was only that because I was expecting the worst.....
Wearing the inner pad more than the outer would suggest the calliper pins are seized so instead of the calliper floating and applying the same pressure on both pads, it is only pushing against the inner pad where the piston is. Make sure the pins move in and out freely. I had one that was seized and sheared it off trying to get it to move so the next time I found the same problem, I drilled a 5mm hole in the calliper carrier opposite the pin, tapped it with an M6 thread and screwed a bolt in to push the pin out. Once cleaned and greased I just put a short M6 bolt in to plug the hole.
I've given up trying to clean up calliper pins and the like beyond removing dried oil or grease gunk. Never seem to stay clean and smoothy moving once the first signs of corrosion have arrived.
At todays prices, under a tenner for each end, its the sort of thing you order on spec before hitting the spanners so you have them if you need them. Bit different from back in the pre 'net days when such were manufacturers spare parts starting at "how much!" prices with main dealer special order loading.
Clive
JMCLuimni wrote:
Found it.....
Inner right rear pad had disintegrated completely.....
Gouged the rotor badly.....
A complete mess back there.
Ive ordered a pair of rear calipers, rotors and pads from a company called RockAuto. Would highly recommend them for parts. Saved me at least 20% from where I could have found the cheapest elsewhere.....
Glad it was only that because I was expecting the worst.....
Cheap isn't always good. Especially with brakes :)
Normally I would just replace the carrier, as Clive says, they aren't expensive, but I was doing the job on the Saturday of a bank holiday weekend. I wasn't going to put it back together with a seized pin and if I'd ordered a new carrier it wouldn't have arrived until the following Wednesday at the earliest. Being without a P38 fix for 4 days just wasn't an option.....
For the cost to replace the rotors, pads and calipers it’s not worth faffing around trying to repair parts or pins. The inside of the rotor has deeper grooves in it than the Grand Canyon. Destroyed. So I need a new rotor, so have to change both. Pads need doing anyway, so there’s that. Add to the that the calipers are on it since day one and more importantly the fact that I do not want to have to do this job agin in the near future, you can see my motivation to change all three elements of the rear brakes. And there’s also the old saying, PAY NOW OR PAY LATER.
AC DELCO calipers at $82 each
CENTRIC rotors and pads $85 for the set.
$265 incl shipping
Both good quality brands and a lot cheaper that anything on flea bay
don't go throwing your discs away just yet, measure them first . if they are in size just put more pads on them they will wear in and clean up the disc faster than you think. the thickness has nothing to do with the braking power as long as they are the right thickness is the important thing, if they are to small your pads will come out the front of the caliper of the disc when they wear down ,if you want it to stop better buy better quality pads
PS don't buy cheap chineses discs you will end up replacing them with the next set of pads you do
PSS they don't have to be shiny and smooth they are quite rough when they are machined, just like having the plate rub up against them?
new original discs would be quite expensive i would guess
I agree about Rock Auto. For shipping to Canada they're the only company I've found that has it figured out. With every other foreign seller (not just auto parts), I always get dinged fairly exorbitant charges from the courier service for "brokerage" fees when the parts arrive. Never with Rock Auto. They must have some agreement with the couriers.
There are quite a few parts that I do have to get directly from England though. I've had great service from the English companies, but they haven't got the shipping to Canada figured out.
Funny about suppliers, isn't it?
When I first moved here I tried US ones. All the websites I played with, as soon as I inserted Philippines as the country, demanded a State and ZIP code, which, as we've not been part of the US since 1946, we don't have. All e-mails also went completely ignored.
Thinking, "Bollocks," I turned to the UK. Not a single issue since.