Eas is a hard fault if its staying on. Need to read codes to find out why, the fix and reset. Easunlock by storey Wilson is free with cheap cable.
Airbag fault, check connectors under the seats.
Are you able to talk to the PO and ask what it was that he was trying to achieve, it may be quicker than trying to guess? If you see the "engine immobilised" message, even when the engine is on then god knows how he managed that. Is this the original engine
SRS fault is re the air bag (have you now reconnected it?) I wonder if that's why is was disconnected in the first place?
35mph etc is that the EAS is not happy
Needs someone smarter than me
Thanks again. I like this outcast forum. Best thing that ever happened was you getting banned.
I will check the gearshift light and that can prove that one out.
Regarding the engine disabled message
If the system was disarmed properly. The light wouldn't be flashing
I think and I'm only guessing.
The silver button goes to the battery and an earth. Then also goes to the starter motor relay.
Do you think that when the ignition is on in full waiting. When the silver button is pressed. It fires power to the starter motor and fires the engine up. So whilst the ecu waits for the key to turn. The button jumps the starter motor
The eas has been butchered.
All 4 corners have been out on manual inflation.
I have a refurb kit coming for the compressor and dryer plus some new hose to connect the lines back to the compressor
"Starter Motor Relay This relay is also ignition key controlled and is activated with the key in the ignition III position only. Releasing the key after cranking cuts supply to the relay and switches off the starter motor"
"Starting System When the Ignition Switch (X274) is switched to position III, the BeCM (Z238) grounds the starter solenoid relay inside the Engine Compartment Fuse Box (P125) which then energizes, applying battery voltage to the Starter Solenoid (K136) and Starter (M134)"
So maybe it was just that this circuit ceased to work (relay/ fuse box tracks burnt out/ wires melted etc.) and the PO gave up trying to work out why.
Do you have a copy of the Electronic Troubleshooting Manual? check Master Fuse 2/ Relay 16/ wire continuity (page 2 section B1)
Though that doesn't account for the flashing immob. message... so there's probably something else done too
Getting the starter to spin is the easy bit, but if the alarm LED is still on and the dash is telling you the engine is immobilised, then that means the engine ECU hasn't received the correct code from the BeCM so there shouldn't be any sparks or fuel. The ECU won't power itself up until it sees the code. Easy to see if it is powered, does the Check Engine light come on when the ignition is turned on? That's the usual tell tale if sync between BeCM and ECU has been lost, no Check Engine light. You can get a stand alone GEMS ECU that doesn't need to see the code but you're looking at 500 notes and I can't see anyone going to that kind of expense on an older P38. Marty is the only one that may have a clue what is going on here.
Grizzly wrote:
The eas has been butchered.
All 4 corners have been out on manual inflation.
I have a refurb kit coming for the compressor and dryer plus some new hose to connect the lines back to the compressor
More than likely that's reason for eas message compressor not working brings up hard fault.
Gilbertd wrote:
Getting the starter to spin is the easy bit, but if the alarm LED is still on and the dash is telling you the engine is immobilised, then that means the engine ECU hasn't received the correct code from the BeCM so there shouldn't be any sparks or fuel. The ECU won't power itself up until it sees the code. Easy to see if it is powered, does the Check Engine light come on when the ignition is turned on? That's the usual tell tale if sync between BeCM and ECU has been lost, no Check Engine light. You can get a stand alone GEMS ECU that doesn't need to see the code but you're looking at 500 notes and I can't see anyone going to that kind of expense on an older P38. Marty is the only one that may have a clue what is going on here.
The engine immobilized code, will only appear if you turn the key to the final stage as if you were to start the engine.
If you leave the key at 2nd position, so everything is lit up and primed ready. Then press the magic silver button. That's how it fires up and you get no engine disabled message
But the led will still blink whilst the engine is running. So like you say, the immobilizer is not getting the getting signal in one way.
But if you try and use the ignition barrel to start the car, the ecu is then preventing the car to start.
I need to have a look at weekend to to see where the button is wired up to and also today will try and check the RF receiver, check that's plugged in
Regarding the EAS once the pipes are re connected and compressor refurbished.
Is there any fuses I need to check that the compressor is then powered back up and running as it should
The code is sent to the ECU when you turn the ignition on to position 2 so everything powers up and the Check Engine light comes on. When you turn to position 3 to start it, the BeCM decides if it is immobilised or not and, if not, commands the starter relay to pull in and operate the starter. That bit is easy, to operate the starter all you need so is ground one side of the starter relay. It's the immobilising side of things that are intriguing.
Once the EAS is back together, chances are it won't do anything. It's telling you it has a fault so it will shut down until the fault is cleared. You might be very lucky and find it just starts up and works but doubtful. You will need a cable and the free software to read and clear the fault (or the assistance of someone nearby with a Nanocom or similar).
I have seen lots of different cables on the old ebay etc.
Do we have a trusting link of which one works nicely ?
Regarding immobilizer I am going to pull the cover under the steering wheel and trace where the cables for the magic button go to and from. I will try and take photos as best I can to help
It's not so much the cable as the laptop you use. The cable is serial comms so ideally you need an old laptop with a serial (9 pin) port but that means very old so you usually need to use a USB to serial adapter which is where the problems start. Some work better than others, if you get one with an FTDI chipset it is likely to be more reliable.
oh my said alice as she went down the P38 rabbit hole haha
Ok will see what the old kit at home has
Ok this it rear of flex for button and looks like it runs straight to the fuse box
checked rf and thats all plugged in
will need to check the glow near gear shift though
Also carrying on from last night. The check engine light does come on at ignition 2 and then go off when starting
So iv just been laid in the car. Much to an apprentices amusement with a hoodie over the gear shift. Can't see any faint glow now or when I press either key fob button
The faint glow is very faint, you need to let your eyes get used to the dark. The faint glow tells you that the BeCM is powered and awake, if you do nothing for 2 minutes the BeCM goes to sleep and the light goes out. So you need to do something to cause it to wake in the first place, like open or close the door or turn the ignition on and off again. 2 minutes after waking it, it will go to sleep if it detects nothing and the light goes out.
Can we see a photo of the engine/ engine bay? Is this the original engine? Either someone went to a lot of trouble to dismantle the original wiring, or perhaps they replaced the engine and bodged the bare minimum of wiring to make it work. Is the original starter circuit/ wiring intact?