Oh and there are a few temp sensors out there, this one is for an OMVL Reducer which she has..
is this about right would ya say?
Just realised the above is M12 thread..
The one in mine is more like an M6 thread.......
Plenty to choose from here https://tinleytech.co.uk/product-category/lpg-parts/electrical/temperature-senders/
I'd try seeing if the one you have will move first. If it won't come undone or snaps off when you try it, it may be easier to use one that fits into the coolant pipe instead. Ideally you want one with the same electrical spec as you have currently else you need to use the software to specify the right one.
I'd also suggest shorting it so you can test the rest of it before you place an order. Then if anything else is needed you can add it to the same order.
Dream reducers usually have the wide (M10 / M12) thread for the temp sensor.
If necessary (if your temp sensor is broken) you should be able to remove that temp sensor if you follow my earlier removal advice. But you've said you've found yours has an M6 thread... have you removed it to check? The sensor in the pic definitely looks standard Dream fitting with the wider thread.
OMVL branded Dream reducer temp sensors have a plug on the end of wires. The one you've seen on Ebay should fit Dream reducers but it isn't an original OMVL part because it doesn't have the plug. Since your install has a Stag ECU (instead of OMVL ECU) the loom itself wouldn't have the corresponding plug so the installer will just have cut the OMVL sensor's connector off and spliced the wires in, you'd have to do the same.
Since your Stag ECU will be an older one you should be able to short the temp sensor wires to get it to change to LPG as Bri says, if it were a later ECU shorting the wires would cause the ECU to flag an error (for shorted temp sensor...) and it still wouldn't switch to LPG, in which case you could put a 1K resistor across the temp sensor wires rather than shorting them.
Some inline (in pipe) water temp sensors are OK, some are very prone to water leaks. Most temp sensors are designed to fit in a blind hole in a reducer, some of the in pipe setups use sensors designed to fit into blind holes in reducers in a through hole in the bit that fits in the pipe with just some thread seal and/or a little O ring (but the sensor isn't designed for an O ring).
If you do replace one of the reducer's bolts with a temp sensor make sure you get a sensor of correct thread diameter and at least long enough length. You can cut the threaded end of temp sensors shorter. There are several diameters of temp sensors but iirc the most common sensors are a different diameter to Dream reducer bolt threads, a temp sensor that will fit in e.g. a KME reducer won't fit in place of a bolt in a Dream reducer.
Ideally (if your sensor is broken) you'd replace it with a sensor to fit in the same position rather than fitting a sensor in place of a bolt. The front housing of Dream reducers (where bolts fit) warms slower than the usual temp sensor position. As Bri says, if it's broke try removing it (method I mentioned in earlier post), if you can remove it replace it, if you can't remove it it might be a better idea to fit an line type (a good one) than replace a bolt with a sensor.
Thanks all it might sound stupid but.................................
how do i short the sensor?
Cut the 2 wires to it (leave enough on the sensor side of the cut so you can rejoin them if it turns out to be a good sensor) and on the LPG ECU side of the cut join the 2 wires together.
While you're at it you could check resistance across the sensor itself.
Ahh..
Thanks i'll do that.
this about right?
I've since wrapped it in electrical tape.
That should be fine for testing.
Right...
Started her up and she ran like shit even on petrol switched her on to gas and it ran for 10 seconds before the gas cut off..
Engine now idling at 1500rpm and sproratically dropping a cylinder or 2 for 5 seconds..
I turned her off and pulled the wire apart.
Turned her over and she ran a dream..
Sounds like it might be dual fuelling so running on gas and petrol on some cylinders. Probably down to some shitty wiring by Profess.
I've gotta agree Richard the wiring really is shit..
As is the lines they used for the LPG..
Instead of trimming the line to just the right length i had several inches of coiled pipe ziptied here and there in my engine bay, it looks like they wrapped it around a wine bottle..
I'll get it to Simon one day........
he'd probably faint if he saw the extent of the bodgery.
Coiled pipe is normal on the copper feed line from tank to front as it allows the pipe to flex without risking it snapping off due to metal fatigue.
When you started it with the temperature sensor wires shorted, was it on a cold engine or did you warm it up on petrol first? It will run like a dog on LPG when cold. The system piggy backs off the petrol ECU so follows the fuelling strategy of that. A cold engine needs a richer mixture and higher idle speed (cold start enrichment, what used to be achieved by pulling the choke out) when on petrol but doesn't on LPG, so if cold the mixture will be stupidly rich and the idle high.
I turned off the LPG on the cold start and it was running like a dog on Petrol.
I tried to switch to LPG and it switched over for 10 seconds and the cut off..
It ran perfectly normal once I un coiled the wire
'Uncoiled the wire' - Do you mean the reducer temp sensor wires you shorted together?
How long since it last ran well on LPG?
Have you done the reducer diaphragm test and injector leak test?