That’s a good question. Look forward to seeing the answer!

I took out the front right side without any difficulty. Just lowered the window and it eased out quite easily. I'm waiting for the replacement so will update once it arrives but it doesn't look too hard. Famous last words!

I do agree with you there - famous last words indeed ! But, to be honest, when I read about how to demolish, errrr sorry, dismantle the panels around the front scuttle [plenum] filter I was surprised that it was easier than I expected, with the exception of dealing with a couple of corroded screws. But nothing very disastrous.

I just hope that the glass doesn't have to be taken out to fit the new rear door seal.

Maybe someone could explain the procedure for this ?

Pierre3.

Dammit, the front one I need is POA - Dare I actually A?

It's worth enquiring.

Even if it's to give us all a bit of a laugh!

The three I've ordered are from ebay and if they are any good they are reasonably priced between £25 and £40. I'll let you know.

Supply and demand as usual.

We get that with TVR Parts. Anything that is specific to TVRs is usually ridiculously expensive. Often we find the same generic part at a quarter of the price. I just sold a set of TVR alloy wheels for nearly £1000 yet a set of my Vogue wheels and very good tyres on eBay haven't had a look at 400 quid!

Same as classic [70's and 80's] Mercedes W126 parts. I have an original AMG set of 8inch alloys on my 500se, and the rough price for all 5 would be around £1000 - £1500. There are quite a lot of later copies but the originals are very hard to come by. They are nearly worth the same are the car itself !

Rear window - at least £700 - IF you can find an original glass. Brake calipers - for two front calipers - about £ 150 - IF you can find the correct caliper, as there were three different manufacturers of the darn things. Which make is fitted is a lottery, no mention anywhere as to what is fitted, you have to remove the calipers and physically read off the manufacturer. PITA !!!

Anyway, could anyway say how the rear door window seal comes out ? Does it just pull off the door frame, like the door seal, and the new one just push back on ?

Pierre3.

If it is like the front one. I just lowered the window and peeled it out. Haven't tackled the rear one yet.

The replacements have arrived and are in good shape if a little grubby and £25 for two and £40 for the rear - rarer presumably.

From clearmyshed on ebay.

Anyone tried these guys or similar?

https://www.sealsdirect.co.uk/shopping.asp?intDepartmentId=68

Anybody?

I have checked them out on other vehicles but not found a profile that I needed.

I've pm'd you about the headlining but as it's windy today probably won't go ahead. Welcome to call anyway.

And I think all you are buying from them is straight seal profile, it won't be cut and welded at the right lengths and angles to suit the P38, ... or anything else,... I have looked for similar seals for the 2 door classic which are just stupid money these days. Interesting thread though, I have a couple of bad No.9's and have had a search going on ebay for months, which has turned up zip, but they obviously are out there so I need to go back and check the wording. They are not too bad to change, I swapped a door over recently and had to move it across, I knocked the crumbly bits out while I was at it which looks slightly better but obviously the seal loses it's grip at that point.

DavidAll wrote:

I have checked them out on other vehicles but not found a profile that I needed.

I've pm'd you about the headlining but as it's windy today probably won't go ahead. Welcome to call anyway.

PM not received.

I fitted a new outer, rear passenger side window seal this afternoon.

I found that the easiest, and quickest method is to remove the inner window seal first because the outer seal is lodged inside the inner seal.

Taking out the inner seal you then just pull off the outer seal, refit the new outer seal, and then refit the inner seal. The one thing that I have noticed to be a bit of a snag are the top corners, front and rear. I have found that when the rear corner is in tight the front corner is just slightly raised, and not sitting exactly into the front corner. I don't think that this is a big issue, I think that with some warm weather the seal will shrink slightly and bed in. I am talking about 1 mm of an overlap, riding up very, very slightly as compared to a flush finish on the drivers side window seal. But then that one has been there for 19 years !

Next job is the headlining.

Pierre3.

Useful info above, thanks.

I should be picking my car up tomorrow with the new headlining fitted.....

I have read lots of the advice on re-doing the headlining but I think that I am going to do the same as you, and get a guy I know to do it for me. The biggest barrier to doing it myself is the sunroof, it seems to be a pain to get the panel out, and, I will be honest, I am concerned that I will either break one of the small clips, or that I won't be able to get it back in position again, and that it will then leak.

The window seals are a half hour job, and I noticed that when I took out both seals the framework underneath is perfect.

When you remove the inner seal that lets the glass come free of the glass channel in the outer seal, so it means you can push the new seal down into the door and then reseat the glass, easy-peasy. Half and hour, and a quick polish to the new seal to match the rest of the doors and you're done.

Pierre3.