Stupid, stupid, stupid!

Loaded a large door into the back of the car and thought it would be fine to drive a few miles with the lower tailgate down.

Warning on dashboard stating that the tail gate was open so I thought that wasn’t a problem.

Suspension lights were flashing by the rocker switch as it couldn’t settle on normal ride height with tail gate open and I thought that was okay.

Unloaded door, started car up with all doors shut and now all the lights are flashing next to the rocker switch. Message on dash says maximum 35 miles an hour.

How do I clear this and get back to normal please?

It's gone into hard fault so you need diagnostics to clear it. Do you have a cable and the free software or any other dedicated diagnostics?

When driving with the tailgate open I get pissed off with the constant beeping and the dash telling me the tailgate is open, so I always flick the latch closed with a screwdriver so it thinks it's closed. You only need to flick the latch on the lower tailgate that the upper would latch into.

Thanks for that. I thought as much!!

If I was home, I have two friendly Land Rover independents within a mile but sadly I am about 25 miles away.

I fo have the Bearmach reader but not the EAS dongle as they weren’t available!

Looks like you've got a bumpy ride home then......

Best drop the tyres to 15 psi!

And, boll@cks!

It's worth making up a cable and downloading the free software if you don't have your own diagnostics. At least then you can deal with EAS faults at times your local indies aren't open. It does mean you need to carry a laptop around with you though.

I have the hawkeyed which is excellent but not the blue adapter for the EAS

Probably not amazing that they don’t give the adapter with the Hawkeye code reader. You need to spend another 40 quid + or thereabouts for the adapter.

That's a bit of a ripoff, the Nanocom comes with one cable that does everything.

It is a rip-off.

It is a very nice piece of kit but they should sell it to do everything not just 90% of the car with the little add-on that costs a bit more!

That is a weird one ... I had once the same loading situation you had, besides the normal tailgate beeping the EAS went flashing but did reach normal height, and once I resumed normal operation it did not show any faults. Strange.
Now, of course with the door signal override switch I no longer care ...

All sorted now! Cost me 6 of our best eggs......

Spoke to Bearmach, they are going to take back the code reader as they cannot supply the additional dongle which will read all the suspension codes.

Seeing that I'm starting from scratch, what is the best or the most useful code reader that I can get hold of? Bearmach can supply a Nanocom 07 but that is £450!

Cheaper than some... assumung the 07 means P38 license on a Nanocom?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/331158325789

ah, yes. Motronic.
https://bearmach.com/nanocom-evolution-diagnostic-kit-suitable-for-range-rover-p38-motronic-v8-petrol-1999-onwards-vehicles-ncom07

Frankly, it's the best option short of dealer diagnostics (testbook).

They're cheaper from the source
https://www.nanocom-diagnostics.com/shop/product/ncom04

You are welcome to use my Nanocom. I bought it on Ebay a couple of months ago and haven't even tried setting it up yet. I won't be needing it for a while yet. It looks a bit of a palaver but perhaps Richard can advise.

Morat wrote:

Cheaper than some... assumung the 07 means P38 license on a Nanocom?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/331158325789

ah, yes. Motronic.
https://bearmach.com/nanocom-evolution-diagnostic-kit-suitable-for-range-rover-p38-motronic-v8-petrol-1999-onwards-vehicles-ncom07

Frankly, it's the best option short of dealer diagnostics (testbook).

They're cheaper from the source
https://www.nanocom-diagnostics.com/shop/product/ncom04

Looks like Bearmach might actually work out cheaper by the time you add shipping in? Theres only £3.67 between them?

DavidAll wrote:

You are welcome to use my Nanocom. I bought it on Ebay a couple of months ago and haven't even tried setting it up yet. I won't be needing it for a while yet. It looks a bit of a palaver but perhaps Richard can advise.

The only setting up is registering it with BBS, or, if you are adding a new licence, it looks complicated but is pretty straightforward really. Assuming you bought one with a GEMS licence to suit your car, it will still need the Bosch Motronic licence if you need it to deal with the engine. However, a Nanocom with only a GEMS (or Diesel) licence will still do all the other systems on a Motronic, so would work fine for EAS, HEVAC, BeCM, ABS and gearbox, it just won't talk to the engine ECU. Mine has GEMS and EDC licences (but not Motronic) and I've been using it on the 2001 Vogue I'm helping restore for the ABS, HEVAC and EAS.

The reason why the Nano is so expensive is that Colin from BBS is based in Cyprus and they are priced in Euros. I watched the price in pounds go up and down with the exchange rate and got mine when it was at it's best for just over £300, but since then the Euro price has remained much the same, just the exchange rate has meant the pounds price has rocketed.

DavidAll wrote:

You are welcome to use my Nanocom. I bought it on Ebay a couple of months ago and haven't even tried setting it up yet. I won't be needing it for a while yet. It looks a bit of a palaver but perhaps Richard can advise.

Thank you David.

BrianH wrote:

Morat wrote:

Cheaper than some... assumung the 07 means P38 license on a Nanocom?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/331158325789

ah, yes. Motronic.
https://bearmach.com/nanocom-evolution-diagnostic-kit-suitable-for-range-rover-p38-motronic-v8-petrol-1999-onwards-vehicles-ncom07

Frankly, it's the best option short of dealer diagnostics (testbook).

They're cheaper from the source
https://www.nanocom-diagnostics.com/shop/product/ncom04

Looks like Bearmach might actually work out cheaper by the time you add shipping in? Theres only £3.67 between them?

Every pound is a prisoner! :)

Just to follow up on this, nothing to do with my little escapade!

Sometimes when I start the car up after it has been laid up for a day or two, After the car has settled a little bit but still level and very near its normal height. The pump doesn't seem to activate straight away. The normal height light flashes as you would expect but sometimes it takes several minutes before the pump kicks in which is strange and then seems to work fine until the next time.

Any thoughts why it doesn't work instantaneously? I'm sure are used to.

How do you know it doesn't start straight away? If the compressor mounts are good and the washers the right way up, you won't hear it. The only way you will know it is running is to put your hand on it. It will get noisier once it is working harder and the pressure is coming up.