Hi Folks,
The Duchess is dropping her backside overnight and now it only takes a couple of hours. It's not one corner but both rear bags at once and there's often an air leak type sound from the valve block/pump area when you shut the engine off. I'm guessing it's time to rebuild the solenoid/NRV/etc seals - could you please recommend a decent set as I seem to recall that there are some which are not as good as others.
I'm also hoping to replace both rear bags if the weather isn't too horrible as the offside rear picked up an advisory for being perished.
Maybe that'll see her right?!
I did a rebuild on a spare valve block for the HSK yesterday using an LK8 kit. Fully successful as of this morning
it is no longer doing what the Duchess was.....Sitting on it's haunches in the AM.
I did need to R&R the driver pack after the initial install, as it would only raise the RH side......
I should have known better than to put in an untested driver pack. Now in the bin!
There have been a few threads lately about possible parts missing from LK8 kits, however
this was a kit purchased last year, and no issues with parts.
I googled LK8 and got X8r - is that what you meant?
https://x8r.co.uk/range-rover-p38-eas-air-suspension-valve-block-o-ring-diaphragm-repair-fix-kit
I can't remember if that's what I used last time, they look familiar but that might be because I looked at every option!
I'll probably order some and feed back.
Yep! X8r is correct
How I got LK8 I have no idea..........
😁 Well, they're on the way. Thanks!
So..err, which grease is it that I should use? I'm sure I've got a ridiculous amount left over from last time, somewhere!
It’s a few years ago but I think I used Vaseline.
I have used silicone grease on the o-rings. Just a slight amount on your fingers.
Silicone grease is better on rubber and nitrile and not affected by moisture.
I have silicon grease! I suspect this is one of those "lifetime" tubs ;)
But First - I'm going to warm up on the least happy compressor in the fleet. It turns out I already had a spare, so now I've got one new one on the car, one new one on the shelf, and this one that needs a rebuild.
Question is: How hosed is it? There are quite a few metal shavings and the piston is a bit tilted. I've got a new barrel but not a new piston.
I'll get a photo up shortly...
Thanks!
https://photos.app.goo.gl/foBpXqUBhwF25K617 enter link description here
](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLXEtExMy37C0nnYWKJWSWzn6vml0W5Qk4ltSETHboMvsVAf3ye19V98qrwjHA1ia0l7cQBHcocxFTmoudQUsP16Cm9VhnYjLJRtHpdCZQfptbgVq7AJpD-OQuVp7KeY1A2P1MBDzHNRnJbVuhDIJi62=w694-h925-no?authuser=0 "enter image title here")
That looks buggered. Only time I've seen one like that the bearing had started breaking up. Other possibility is that it's been apart before and the crank wasn't pushed fully onto the shaft so it wasn't running square.
I think I bought this new, but it's a Dunlop.
Ah well, thanks for letting me know before I waste the time and a rebuild kit.
The bearings seemed fine so being a curious sort I carried on taking it apart to see where the metal had come from and half hoping they might only be plastic shavings from the piston seal.
However..
It looks like the motor has stripped what was once a keyed socket in the axle/counterweight. I Wasn't expecting that!
The date on this part is 09/17 so I'll be keeping some of the bits for salvage but unless there's a source of new piston assemblies this is dead :(
The socket isn't keyed but the shaft has a flat on it that the grub screw should bear against. If it's been apart before and that wasn't realised (or was assembled wrong from new), it could have been relying solely on the grub screw to stop it spinning on the shaft. I always set the grub screw so it is protruding slightly into the hole then the assembly will only slip onto the shaft if the grub screw is lined up with the flat. It's salvageable though.
Ah roger. OK, well I didn't see anything like a grub screw, I'll check again :)
It's down a hole where that cutaway bit is. Imperial size too just to confuse everyone although the nearest metric with a dob of grinding paste on the end usually fits well enough.
In my curiousity, I took the motor out of the casing to have a better look. Can't get the damn thing back in again!! I might go and do a couple of rubics cubes, blindfolded, as light relief 🙅♂️
Come back to it tomorrow, or cup of tea then back to it, your getting very adventurous these days🤣😂
Do you mean you pulled the motor apart too? If you did you will see a plastic ring floating around behind the brushes that seems to do nothing. It doesn't once it's in but when putting the end back on you push the brushes back as far as they will go, then, with your third hand, lift the ring up so it holds the brushes back. Then you can slide the end into place and, as the commutator gets almost all the way in, it pushes the plastic ring back into the space behind the brushes and they spring back into place.
Lol, thanks guys :)
Yes, I pulled the motor apart to see if I could find any reason for the metal shavings (which I now suspect are the remains of the grub screw).
I'll digest what you said Richard and see if I can grow another hand :D
The main issue I was having was the long screws that run past the magnets invariably click on the magnets and don't want to go to the holes at the far end of the casing. I'm sure there's a simpler way, once you spot it.