Asking for a friend who has just got a 2001 diesel, the door was dead when he purchased it just a week ago, the seller mentioned it's the out station maybe? Anywho...I'm helping him to fix up some of the minor issues it has, balljoints,exhaust, diesel leak etc but I'm no electrical genius and neither is he!
CDL doesn't work on this driver's door but will lock with the key, window and mirror also dead, nanocom won't work them either, all other doors are ok.
I've suggested we omit all 4 white kick panel plugs to at least take them out of the equation like I've done to mine. All fuses are good. Is there an obvious place to look that maybe feeds power to this door?
Door outstation. Everything on the door goes via that so if it dies, nothing on the door will work. Both are fed from the same fuses and don't go via the connections behind the kick panel. Easiest check is to swap it for the one on the passenger door and if the fault moves that is definitely the problem.
Cheers Richard, I knew you'd know!
I'll pass on your message and get him to sign up too.
Finally got around to swopping the door outstations, and the good front passenger door one swopped for the suspected driver's door one didn't work, everything still dead. It worked everything when fitted to the passenger door so both outstations are good.
To add.. interior light doesn't come on on the dead door either, fine on all the other doors. Is that a clue I wonder?
All that tells you is that the BeCM isn't seeing the signal from the door ajar switch in the latch. But as there is no communication between the BeCM and anything else in the door it makes sense that it doesn't work. If swapping the outstations hasn't proved a fault, then you need to check for power to the outstation on the Purple/Black wire on pin 10 at C1406 (16 way connector at the outstation furthest from the door hinges). There are two more connectors in the door jamb, which you'll need to pull the rubber conduit away from the door frame to get to which this power, along with all other wires between the outstation and BeCM, go through.
Champion, thanks again.
Knocked it on the head for now, cold, hungry and it's started to rain, his DMM is naffed too so I'll return tomorrow with mine.
Still not got round to this due to unforeseen issues. Just updating this thread so I don't appear rude 😉
OK, we've been fiddling and,again, run out of time to fully investigate the dead door but we have fixed the exhaust, abs sensor and dull message center.
What we have done also is swopped out his switch pack with my fully working one which has confirmed its not that causing his dead door but has confirmed that his sunroof switch needs sorting.
On the door, we got as far as checking voltages on the good door and comparing them at the plug for the electric window. All voltages checked out the same except for the yellow/red which was dead on the dead door but live on the good door. I'm not sure if it was a yellow with red trace or red with a yellow trace as the findings aren't here but in his glovebox. I found what I think is the other end into the becm but he was waiting to desperately leave to pick his daughter up.
So that's where we are at thus far.
Bit more of an update on this. After fixing his switch pack he accidentally left the sun roof open and flooded the interior in a heavy down pour overnight. Switch pack now completely dead. Swopping it with mine has proved this is the case. Back to the dead door, we couldn't find any connectors or wiring issues and because he only had one working key, the becm, engine ecu and both keys have been sent to les at classic rides.
He has reported back with photos of water damage and burning.
Beyond repair so he has sourced another and refurbished that along with a new key for £310 iirc. All the bits came back yesterday and will be fitted tomorrow (saturday). Hopefully that will fix the dead door too.
Oh...missed a bit of the story out!
The plan,at les's request, was to drive the car to him and he would fix the issue with the door and sort another key while he waited and if he couldn't fix it quickly, my friend would catch a train back home and leave the car with him.
2 days before the trip however, my friend left his lights on all day at work so was greeted with a flat battery, key code lock out blah blah. Charged the battery and connected my nanocom and disabled the siren which kept going off but I couldn't enter the eka code, whether that was my incompetence with the nano or a fault with the becm, couldn't enter it via the door latch either, we don't know. So no driving to les and so it was removed and posted. Not ideal of course but at least we can rule out the becm as being the cause of the dead door and he will have two keys!
Used switch pack purchased off ebay which hasn't arrived yet.
Car is up and running again after fitting the replacement becm and he now has a spare working key. Replacement switch pack off ebay works too which surprised me somewhat. Door is still dead though so we can't blame a manky becm. More wiring /connector block checks to be carried out!
We've carried out marty's electrical latch tests on the dead drivers door latch and it failed everyone except the one resistance test. A new latch will probably fix the cdl and interior light issue but could the mirror and window non functioning be a latch fault too?
If not, does anyone know which colour wires to the window motor we would need to energise to make it go up/down to test it's not died?
Grey/Green and Grey/White. I have a feeling they are thicker than the others too.
Thanks Richard, would ground be on another wire or does it get that through the frame?
If you have power/ground at the outstation, then it's probably one of the serial link wires between the BECM and door outstation which has failed. I've seen it numerous times.
Check the continuity on the Light Green, Red, and Orange/Green wires from the door outstation connector to the BECM. They appear on the 16 way Blue connector on the front edge of the BECM.
Light Green is pin 13 on BECM connector
Red is pin 14 on BECM connector
Orange/Green is on pin 15 of BECM connector.
If any of these is broken then it will stop all communication with the door outstation, and you'll have a dead door.
First place to check if one is faulty is the connectors inside the bodywork of the A pillar. Pull the rubber cable sheath out from the vehicle side with the door open, and you should be able to pull the connectors through the hole in the bodywork (they are fiddly) and check them for any sign of corrosion/broken pins on the above mentioned wires.
If they are OK, pop the plastic sill trim and inspect the wiring looms in there, as I've found corroded wires with a break in them in the looms before, including one with that exact problem where the door had stopped. I ended up chopping out the broken section of wire and soldering/heatshrink a new length of wire into the loom.
Sorry I haven't seen this earlier - I'm still out of the UK (currently in NZ, but been touring the US earlier in the year) and not on forums/FB groups/email much anymore as life has been too busy - and all my p38 stuff is in the UK still currently...
Chrisp38 wrote:
Thanks Richard, would ground be on another wire or does it get that through the frame?
No, it's power to one and ground to the other to go one way, then just reverse them to go the other way.
Thanks Richard and Marty, some useful stuff there to be getting on with.
You were spot on Marty! Both those wires were fractured internally inside the sill cover, repaired them and everything works again, mirror, window, cdl and interior light.
You've made my mate very happy!
He's signed up to this site now too.
Only thing that's confused me is the latch test was a fail on some of the tests but it all works good? Maybe we tested wrong or something....
Was the door latch tested with it unplugged, or still plugged in to the outstation?
If it was still plugged into outstation, then you will get weird results.
If it was unplugged and you were probing the latch connector plug directly, then it's really strange... With a DVM on continuity check, you should get a tone in one state of each microswitch....
If it's all working as expected now though, then that's the main thing and I wouldn't worry about the latch too much (unless you get jumping door locks... Then it's likely to be on the way out )
Glad it's all working as it should now though!
Yes unplugged. My friend was reading the tests off his phone whilst I probed. He did the various movements to the latch mechanism too, I just held the probe on whatever terminal he said, dmm on beeb too and checked earth continuancy between each test. It'll be his fault somewhere along the line lol!