F1 is more of an arms race than a sporting event. I love it, but I do admit that the drivers are only going to make x% difference to the overall results.
Rugby is my sport, I've never "got" football/soccer at all.
Glad I'm not the only one. The dear departed Mark (Orangebean) was the only other person that would be logged in on here no matter what time of day or night it was watching it live from one of the flyaways.
I've always had an interest in any form of motorsport but through work got involved at Silverstone for the GP every year from 1988 onwards. That also included 95 when there was a GP at Donnington too and was in at the beginning for the CART race they introduced at Rockingham (for it to sink without trace after one event). 2011 to 2013 I did sub-contract work for Formula One Management doing spectrum management at India, Canada, South Korea, and Malaysia so have seen it grow from the inside. I've met most of the drivers (MS was the most arrogant arse you could ever meet) too and my only complaint these days is they don't sound right. A V6 revving to 15,000 rpm with turbos acting as silencers just isn't the same as a V8 revving to 18,000 rpm through open pipes.
Well, sorry to bring the topic around but I wanted to clear the issue of the previous page, yes indeed the seats were not "bedding themselves" fully, therefore the catch was not working.
I laid down on the trunk floor and play a while until I noticed a gap of 2-3mm (really!) was not enabling the seat catch to fully wrap around the metal rod.
I blame that one the extra insulation I applied on the floor, and remove some around the area where the seat "lies". Still a bit on the difficult side, but I have already put the carpet back and don't feel like taking it apart again. Will get used to it...
Also the backrest catches are being difficult, for the same reason. Oh well - thanks again!
Move on to the next one, soon :-)
Which now I remember what it was ... before I close the rear luggage panels, I was wanting to fix the tow electrics so I can have both connectors, 7 and 13 pin.
I have now the original 7-pin which attaches to the right side, and I know the additional wiring is available in a plug behind the sub on the left side.
Question is ... how do the two looms "merge" together when both 7 and 13 pin connectors are present? Did this ever existed as an accessory? Or I just need to make it myself splicing here and there to make the additional wiring?
I need to take the bumper off sooner or later, so I can also prepare all the wiring and just tuck it aside until its time comes...
There never was an option to have a mix of 7 and 13 pin connectors. You had a dual socket system, with two 7 pin sockets (see https://www.pfjones.co.uk/advice-centre/tow-bar-advice/tow-bar-electrics.html) which was replaced with the 13 pin single socket that used a single socket to give the same connections as the two 7 pin ones. The connections for the single 7 pin socket are behind the RH rear light while the additional connections needed for the second 7 pin socket (permanent live, ignition switched live, reversing lights and ground) are on a plug behind the LH rear light.
Hi all, I revived this topic to update on my EAS suffering. As I mentioned in the "what have you done today?", after hitting a speed bump a little too vivaciously, I heard a puff and a lowering.
We discussed I might have busted a line or a air spring, well, after a few days I managed to limp towards my friend with a lift and I have found that ....
https://1drv.ms/u/s!Aog9VsSxOLcFmh9DQjASJPRhZ9HK
... the bag came apart in its housing, did not split or break. Oh well, since I have not a spare, I ordered two, this one will discard, and keep the other one (which is around 6 years old since mounted, but I did not use the beast for a full couple years) as reserve/spare.
For now I've "folded" it again, and it holds, I hope at least until when the order with the new ones comes ....
I've also ordered a new sensor, since I have no rear spare, and I have noticed it varies wildly in its readings, like being stationary at 'normal' and jumps from like 90 to 130 to 85 to 125 and so on ... on access and on full high it does not do it, so I think it is a circuit problem. Unfortunately cleaning with contact spray or whatever does not solve, hence it goes (spare) and I will get another one. I don't want anymore to lose time and efforts on dubious success enterprises, if something don't work right and it is still available, might as well get on with it and ... get it.
Now, a doubt ... before ordering a new sensor, I thought I'd try calibrating it, using a number of wooden sticks gotten from a friend.
https://1drv.ms/u/s!Aog9VsSxOLcFmB406hI35Aw0j_LF
But, I raised the car to full high and put the 145mm block into the bumpstop, and this I get:
https://1drv.ms/u/s!Aog9VsSxOLcFmiDKJJAX4G_18_29
to say on full high I am "too high"? But the car looks right on on height, as well as other P38s at least.
What am I doing wrong? Once I get the new bags and sensor will have to calibrate, but I am failing to understand the proper procedure ... I think I might have asked in the past, but still got these doubts ...