Any thoughts of a quick and cheap way to put some life back in the wood. Can I use teak oil?
I do a bit of wood turning as a hobby.
For the best gloss finish, I would say use shellac varnish. It is very easy and quick to apply. I can give further details if needed.
You would need to do a test area in case something else has been applied.
Teak oil is really for outdoor teaks which are naturally very oily. Used on ships decks for instance.
A two pack epoxy gives a very good finish that is durable and waterproof but is more trouble than it is worth. I wouldn't do it on a dash.
Other varnishes use resins with an organic solvent that dries out.
Other options would be an aerosol can of clear laquer maybe.
Shellac would be the top choice except the wood on an H&H is a natural wood, matt finish, not gloss like that on ordinary cars so isn't appropriate. I would suggest either teak or, preferably, linseed oil, that's what is used on gun stocks and it is the same wood in an H&H.
The Holland & Holland has a mat finish so certainly don't want to turn it to gloss Shellac.
Linseed / Teak was certainly more what I was thinking of.
Hoping to find someone who has already tried this.
if i was to redo my wood i would be using a polyurethane clear coat lacquer , available in gloss and matt finish .use the pressure pack and spray it on for a smooth finish .
linseed oil will give no protection for the elements and shellac would be a bit soft in the heat , go sticky . that's my 2 cents worth.
I refurbished all the wood on my H&H last year.
Suggestions:
1: remove all the wood fixtures from the vehicle
2: use a fine sand paper to smoothen the rough wood
3: be patient. It’s a small job but if you hurry it you will end up seeing the defects or errors
4: use Teak Oil (Star Bright Premium Teak Oil) it’s pricey but you get what you pay for
5: see # 1!!!
Best of luck. It’s one of those jobs that gives you great satisfaction as you see the results every time to drive.
That's exactly what I wanted to hear. Many thanks, I'll keep you updated on my progress. I may just do the centre console as this has faded the most and easy to remove.
Remove the wood, take it to a quality gunsmith who repairs/replaces shotgun stocks. Ideally Holland and Holland! Where are you located?
I'm afraid my Holland & Holland doesn't warrant such expense. I'd be interested to see what they would recommend / charge though.
I can recommend Brian:
http://www.bkwebstergunsmith.com/
He'll probably be really busy right now getting people ready for the shooting season but come spring time he should be more available. Worth a shout in any case.
@Morat, whilst I appreciate your infinite and unquestionable knowledge on all things P38, I would have to disagree with your recommendation about taking the wood to a gunsmith or professional. This is a simple job that just requires patience and a soft hand. Added to that, there is a lot more pleasure in knowing you did the job yourself. I did all the repairs to the woodwork on the Linley and if that job wasn’t sent to a professional I don't know what P38 wood job justifies being sent out. After all, its not a piece of wood from the table of the Last Supper we are talking about here….. respectfully
No worries. I'm not saying it's compulsory :)
But I also doubt it would be very expensive.
I also know jack shit about P38s compared to most people on here so I'm not offended!
Just checked and Holland and Holland models seem to be getting rarer and rarer nowadays.
Just 20 licenced and 21 sorned as of Q1 this year.
One Linley sorned since 2015.
Not all Holland & Holland's registered new as H&H. About 50% registered as HSE Autos. I've kept a close register of them over the years and have located around 40.
Also, it may be that the one Linley that is shown as sorned is the one in the Dunsfold collection. It was acquired by them in 2013.
Didn't I read on here there is an unaccounted Linley somewhere in the Midlands that is a bit of a wreck?
The guy knows what it is and wants too much for it.