Sorry to be lazy, but i'm sure someone has the answer... on P38 no2 the passenger lock locks shut on the key fob, but does not open.... is that likely to be a jammed rod? seems odd for the motor to work one way and not the other... It just helps before pulling the door card off so that I can line up the necessary spares...

Microswitches probably bad.

If it thinks it is already unlocked it won't try to unlock it again. That would point to the CDL switch, can you operate the central locking with the sill button on that door?

The fob locks , but cannot then unlock, the passenger door (all others open and close as expected). Central locking does not work using any of the sill switches... obviously it should, but it doesn't... which door do i tear apart first : o)

I would suspect the passenger one. I was thinking I could check mine with the passenger door unlocked and drivers door locked and seeing if the sill buttons would work, only to realise that with the central locking you can't have one locked and another unlocked if it is working as it should. You've got the Nano so you can confirm if the switches in the latches are working with that. Ignition Off, BeCM - Diagnostics - Inputs - Door Locking. From there you can look at the logic status of each switch which will be shown as either 12V or GRND. So if you operate it, you should see it change from one to the other.

Tnx, good point, although my nano is out of reach at the mo...i'll wait until I retrieve the nano before pulling things apart

Retrieved the nano... the NSF door latch locks on the fob, but does not unlock. The NSF switch status remains "unlocked" no matter whether the dorr is unlocked or not... so i guess that shd be a micro- switch in the NSF door latch, right? Is this an easy fix... or better just to hit ebay...

If you fancy taking the latch out and indulging in a bit of surgery, I've got a couple of the switch blocks taken from dead driver's latches. They have failed keyswitch contacts but the door ajar and CDL switches are OK. As the keyswitch isn't used on the passenger door, it won't matter that it has failed anyway.

On that basis I have a lock i could use as a donor (came from PO) but having just stripped it, it looks like a right PITA changing the switch block from a right handed to left handed, and if it fails then back to square 1... I will check out ebay....as ever, tnx for the advice

closed circuit on the CDL microswitch... once i'd got the lock out then a bit of digging into the rubber behind the microswitch and it magically recovered, refilled with hot melt glue and fingers crossed it holds - seems to so far, although after i plugged the door lock back in the central locking had a few lock/ unlock spasms - don't know if that's normal ?
Has anyone discovered where you can get the microswitches from? just curious for next time...

Doors will lock when the latch is unplugged and should unlock again when you plug it back in. But only the once, so doing a dancing lock would suggest your repair wasn't 100% successful. I bought some microswitches of the correct size from RS Components but found that the standard mounting holes do not line up with the locating pegs on the latch. I understand Marty uses thin threaded rod through the holes and drills the latch body to mount them.

tnx Richard - do you still have a link to the RS micro-switches i can't see anything similar myself. Anyway, the fix seems to have work so but it's always good to have spare stuff just in case ; o)

I think these https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/micro-switches/2945905 where the ones I bought. The tip of the actuator isn't quite as tall so mounting is going to be critical to make sure they operate when they should. That is the usual problem with the keyswitch, too much use of the key causes the pip, and the sliding bit of plastic that operates it, to wear so there isn't enough movement to cause it to operate.

Obviously the ones in the latch are made into a single block of 3 so you need three switches and a means to hold them together.

I didn't pull any of the micro switches apart yet, but i did wonder if the red/black nipple is a little "boot" fitted/ glued to the top of the micro switch?

I recently repaired my drivers door latch with new microswitches, look the same as the Cherry/ZF microswitches in the RS Components link, I think I got mine from Farnell.

I used the 3D printed parts here - https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3047495/files ........unfortunately I needed to get the job done fairly quickly so didn't take any photos. It's a bit fiddly, but not too bad once you figure out how it functions.

My passenger door latch also needs attention, as the door ajar switch seems to have failed. I'll probably pull it out and fix it in a few weeks, so I'll take some pics of the process if anyone wants to see - we could also do a small batch of the 3D printed microswitch boxes if anyone needs some, just let me know, my son has a 3D printer.

That would be extremely useful. I've got two dead door latches sitting on my bench and an intermittent one in the Ascot that need something doing with them.

Tnx gas man.... Looks great...I wd be interested in a couple if your son is knocking some out

So that's 5 already, you'd best get him on to it.

Ok, I'll see when he could make some - I know he's in the middle of some project work at the moment, so might be a week or two before I can nail him down!