rangerovers.pub
The only place for a coil spring is up Zebedee's arse
Member
avatar
Joined:
Posts: 1062

Hiya Gents,,

I've gotta remove the LPG off of my P38 one thing i'm looking at is the wiring...

The ECU is behind the battery where the GEMS ecu is and the wiring goes here there and everywhere, there is a skinny wire that goes to the fuse box for example..

i'm tempted to to just cut through that and any awkward wires?

any issues with doing that do you all think?

Member
Joined:
Posts: 1141

You will find the point where the petrol injector loom joins the lpg loom that you need to reconnect the wires to their original location. Provided you take some care thats not too difficult. If you don't do so, it will not run afterwards. It also will not run if you remove the LPG ecu and don't rejoin those wires.

Without seeing what you've got there, hard to say, but provided you only cut wires to the lpg system you should be ok, obviously you need to make sure they are away from any thing they could either get damaged by or short out against (so insulate them in some way if you can't do anything else).

You should find 16 wires going to the petrol negative injectors, a positive pickup from the battery (maybe your fusebox cable) another switched positive (maybe petrol injector positive) and rpm pickup (maybe). The rest of the cables should only run to the lpg bits (pressure sensor, vapouriser, tank wiring, control panel etc)

If your looking to sell it, keeping the loom as intact as you can would be preferable.

Member
Joined:
Posts: 49

as Brian said, if you cut all the wires you would not have the petrol injectors connected to the engine ECU any more since they get wired through the LPG ECU when installed. That is how the ECU measures the petrol injection time.
I would just remove the cable going into the fusebox (+ve feed) and leave the ECU and cables as they are. You can of course remove the cables leading to the hardware lpg components that you are removing.

Member
avatar
Joined:
Posts: 7822

Why have you got to take it off? The wiring is one thing but if you are taking the whole lot off you'll need to plug the holes in the inlet manifold.

Member
Joined:
Posts: 1141

I'd have thought it would be a better idea to get a tank you could fill up from if the space is available and make use of the LPG personally...

Holes in manifold should be able to be plugged with some M6 button machine screws (short thread bolts basically)

These for example https://www.alfast.co.uk/product/m6-socket-buttons-10-9-grade-zinc-plated-iso7380/ in 8mm length should do the job?

Understanding why you "have" to remove it might help give a better answer.

Member
avatar
Joined:
Posts: 1062

Thanks Gents..

Member
Joined:
Posts: 1141

Also if you want to remove all the hardware, including the wiring, I'd suggest you start from the injector wiring (the petrol ones). Once your happy you have removed them all, check the car still runs. If it does, then remove the LPG ecu from its connector and check again that it still runs. If your good at that point, nothing else should cause too much of a problem.

I would say that if your injector loom is in as bad a state as mine (Is yours really a Gems with it being a 2001?) then its likely to be quite crispy. I ended up redoing the loom on mine and rejoining to the loom near to the windscreen as it was neater, less likely to cause issues and replaced all the crispy wires with new wires that didn't have broken insulation etc. Depending where your breaks have been done (mine had been on LPG under a previous owner which had been removed prior to my ownership) you may be able to rejoin them without taking the upper manifold off if its a Thor? Though you might need the manifold off to access the injector spuds anyway so may not matter.

Also if it is a Thor, be aware that its possible to manage to get the middle two injector plugs onto the wrong injectors on each bank. Its probabbly worth checking Rave if its been messed with before to make sure they are on the right way around (colours on the wiring diagram against each cylinder). Mine I've found since were wrong, suspect when it was either installed or removed the first time that the connectors got swapped over.