Gilbertd wrote:
Turn it anti-clockwise, it is a bayonet style fit.
Got it. Thanks. I didn't realise what they were until the penny dropped about the colours.
I'm sure someone will disagree or correct me, but on the point of heat of LED vs Regular bulbs, surely adding resistors to fool the BECM, means the same wattage is still being used & dissipated ?
Yes it is, you have to put resistors in parallel with them to draw the extra current. Only downside is if the light stops working due to an iffy bulbholder, the current is still being drawn by the resistor so you don't get a bulb blown warning. Some of the LED bulbs sold as being Canbus compatible have the resistor built in so they will still work.
Pete
Total current through LED and the BECM / CanBus defeat resistor is still significantly less than that through a normal bulb so heat dissipation is still rather less. As I recall it from when I added separate sense resistors to use simple LED bulbs in the reversing light the total current needed to tell the BECM that the bulb is OK is around 1/4 of that actually drawn by an normal bulb when illuminated. I think I played around with the resistor size so the BECM still noticed that there was no bulb fitted so, hopefully, a dead bulb would be flagged up.
Objectively it seems rather high but presumably there is reason why a much lower current wasn't considered satisfactory to confirm that a continuous circuit existed. Probably linked to the characteristics of the 4 terminal current monitoring transistors in the BECM that actually drive the lights.
Headlamp LEDs (now illegal) draw enough current for the BECM to accept them as being on anyway.
Clive
Harv wrote:
Thanks for all the info on the LED’s. I’m going to try using some in a few places.
here's the link to my postings on some LED electrickery
Thanks for the link
