Yes, expensive for one off as p&p is more than the cost of the switch. One can get them cheaper than RS but I couldn’t find anyone with stock and no real indication on when they would be available! I have sent my address via private message to take one off your hands as I can always cancel my order and I’m not overly confident of the April date - the October date for the 100mA version has already gone out to November!

On the original battery drain issue, the Hankook seems to have survived its drastic discharge OK and is holding charge with no appreciable drain now. As before I can only conclude that the discharge and compressor/fuse issue were just coincidental just to confuse me - what else can one expect with a P38!

Hi Garvin, Will send one this week; Wonder what the supply issue is ?

Good to hear your battery is behaving now: P38s are like dogs, best not to show them any fear or they will bite !?

Pm sent.

Received the switches today Dave.
Thanks very much, top man!
Chris

Chris; No problem; Enjoy !

The saga continues . . .

Rangie has performed flawlessly since the last drama - no apparent power drain, Hankook battery back to rude health, firing up 'on the button', EAS compressor operating happily . . . until yesterday evening! Unlocked OK on the fob, ignition on with no usual signs of low voltage, twisted the key to fire her up and . . . nothing - and I mean nothing, not even the faintest of clicks . . . arghh!

This morning the investigation began - battery voltage absolutely fine, fuse 40 not blown, power at the starter relay, starter motor relay bench tested OK. Jumped the relay and . . . nothing! Need to get at the starter motor to complete checks but she's down at access level and parked such that getting a jack in under the axle is difficult to say the least. No problem, Nanocom will provide control to heave the beast up to high level so I can squeeze under. Nano connected, ignition on, select EAS and then hit High level and a message pops up stating that the engine needs to be running and doors closed . . . double arghh! But wait, Nano lies - hit the OK button under the message and up she goes - result!

Squeeze under (a door left open of course) and check continuity of solenoid wire - OK. Check voltage with relay jumped - full 12V available at the terminal. Check earthing of starter motor - OK. Get trusty mallet and give the solenoid a good beating and voila - starter spins happily!

The previous drama seems to be just complete coincidence with the starter motor and compressor going AWOL at the same time and now who really is the culprit for blowing fuse 40 previously? I have withdrawn my previous apology to the starter motor and given the solenoid more whacks than necessary to vent my frustration!

Rebuild or replace? Does anyone do rebuild kits for these starter motors? Are the (very) cheap replacement 'aftermarket' starter motors any good or should I go OEM?

Got partway through reading and was about to say the other way of lifting it with the Nano is to go into the outputs, open the valves, then on the next page, open the inlet valve. Doing it that way doesn't matter if the doors are open or not or if he engine is running or not.

As for the starter, I bought a used one for mine, fitted that, then took the original into a local auto electricians who fitted new contacts in the solenoid and brushes in the starter.

I am quite OK ‘refurbishing’ starter motors (have done a number in my time - the last one was done in June last year!) but it’s nice to know what brushes and contacts to get so if anyone knows please post up the information. The starter seems to be a ‘generic’ unit used on a number of vehicles so the info must be out there somewhere . . . but where?

If I can get hold of the necessary bits and pieces I’ll get a cheap replacement whilst I refurbish the original, otherwise I’ll go OEM.

I was surprised at how cheap a new starter motor is. At £88 for the cheapest it's almost worth buying one to carry as a spare. https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-NAD101490P
Even a genuine replacement is only £221 https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-NAD101490E

`Rimmers also have a set of brushes if you want to refurbish your starter motor https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-STC4465

I fitted a cheap and nasty eBay special (about £70 delivered) around 3 years ago. Still works perfectly.

I took the original, which was full of oil and had shot brushes, got a set of brushes for it, refurbed it and fitted it to RR #2 where it has been doing sterling service for the past 3 years as well.

The main motor seems fine, it’s the solenoid that needs ‘fettling’ which usually means, as well as a general clean up, pitted contacts that need replacing but I can’t find replacements anywhere - seems to be the whole solenoid assembly at vast cost . . . or nothing. That’s not to say I wouldn’t renew the brushes in the main motor but I can only find the complete brush ‘cage’ assembly rather than just the brushes. When these two parts are added together the cost makes refurbishment non cost effective.

After hours of research it appears that there are cheap solenoids on the market . . . but none in stock - story of my life recently! However, having now further researched the solenoid it appears a pretty simple assembly that probably just needs a thorough clean/greasing and my trusty dremel might be able to sort out any errant contacts with a bit of grinding and polishing - we'll see! I have also found a carbon brush assembly for £22.90 delivered so with that ordered refurbishment of existing Starter is now on the cards. This means I will just select a cheap and cheerful replacement starter for immediate use and keep the refurbished one on the shelf alongside my other 'ready use' spares in case the cheap replacement doesn't prove so cheerful!

New starter motor installed and working fine. Old starter motor currently undergoing refurbishment. Whilst waiting for the paint to dry on the casing bits and pieces before final reassembly I thought I would see if the EAS Compressor that appeared to overheat and seize could be resurrected and refurbished so I started disassembly and discovered the reason for the 'seizure' - can anybody spot what could possibly be the problem?

Piston broke. Reminds me of an old joke.

Nah, that's a con rod but the only time I've seen one that has done that was when a big end bearing seized. Does the bearing move? Mind you, the one I saw was on a Toyota 1ZZ-FE engine that had been burning so much oil, it ran out. Made quite a mess when the broken end came out the side of the block......

The motor turns quite easily and the 'big end' bearing is not seized or tight - rotates quite easily. The cylinder bore has some wear but nothing more than one would expect for 3 years running (when it was last refurbished). The piston and seal are both undamaged and, again, no abnormal wear on either of them. I can only put this down to a weak con rod and one refurbishment too many - although the break looks very clean with no obvious sign of fatigue! I don't suppose the design life for the compressor was for 20 years+!

When I'm refurbishing the pumps, I generally run the motor after taking the piston & con-rod off the motor spindle. That way you can hear & feel if there's bearing wear as well.