I have not done this for decades and not on a P38, but what do i need to be able to do some brake lines? a flaring tool (which flare type do we need to use?), some cunifer (size?) some ends (thread/size?) a pipe bending spring one of those proper pipe bender things maybe ? All links/ recommendations welcome... thanks in advance

Rob

A flare tool that can do a double flare, something like this https://www.amazon.co.uk/Silverline-633545-Pipe-Flaring-9-Piece/dp/B000LFXPQ0/ref=sr_1_26 or https://www.amazon.co.uk/Double-Flaring-BOROCO-Degree-Automotive/dp/B0B56PCDXG/ref=sr_1_47, some standard brake pipe size 4.75mm or 3/16" Kunifer copper/nickel or copper pipe and some M10 fittings. If using Kunifer or copper, there's no need for a bending spring or pipe bender as it is soft enough to bend by hand.

The 2nd link that Richard put up is the one to get, it does a great job and is small enough to use in situ, its one of my favourite tools.
I don't know if all model years have them but my 2001 has two complicated looking curly pipes either side of the fuel tank which I made perfect replicas of using that tool and forming the tight bends round a suitable socket using my hands.

The other advantage with the second type is that they will do steel pipes far easier than the first type. I've got one of the first type, in fact I've got 3 for some reason, and when I wanted to replace just one end of a pipe on my son-in-law's Toyota, it really struggled to put a flare on a steel pipe. The pipe was plastic coated along its length except right at the end where it had rusted and ran the full length of the car so just cutting it and putting an inline join in was far easier than trying to feed a pipe along the full length, much like the ones that run over the fuel tank on a P38.

Double Flares ? I had some problems with the second (hand-held flaring tool) type with steel pipe but some grease on the tool threads - on the Op1/2 parts - helped considerably ! As usual lots of inferior offerings on e-bay with these tools unfortunately..

For steel pipes (off the car) I would recommend finding the local 'Pirtek' (if you have one nearby); Hydraulic specialists.

Alternatively there are 3/16" compression fittings- particularly if like me you prefer to use hybrid steel-kunifer arrangements - ie. steel for the straight/er (and more exposed) pipe runs and kunifer for the bendier parts.

Tnx for the advice I hit amazon straight after Richards first post and already ordered the kit from the first link. My first 3 practice flares were a mess, but now looking good....Time to do it for real next. Tnx for your help

The second tool in Gilberts post is now on the wish list.

I have something similar to the other one (but with 1/2" hex instead of the handle so it is ok on steel pipes). But not always the easiest one when working under the car.

4.75 mm (instead of just 3/16) has always sounded a bit like selling 40.64 x 20.32 cm wheels...

th.

It's a bit weird, brake pipes are always 4.75mm or 3/16th inch no matter what the car is even though the ferrules can be either Imperial (on older UK or US built cars) or metric M10x1mm (rather than the 1.5mm thread pitch for a standard M10 thread).

Yes, that finer pitch thread on the nuts/ferrules - ie. Imm rather than the 'standard' 1.5mm - has puzzled me for years too...
and so far no-one I have spken to (in the business) can explain it either.....
It's up there with the other key question as to why they use material for those nuts that is quite soft - so it is really too easy
to 'round them off' - even if/when using proper 'flared' brake spanners !

That does remind me of a useful tip though that works -when they are definitely 'rusted' on- which is to use an impact tool (gently !) with a blunt end to shock them - along with penetrating oil of course - to assist disassemby; Well it often works !

That's worth a try. My method when they have been rounded off by someone using an open ended spanner, is to cut the pipe off (as it is going to be replaced anyway) and use an Irwin tapered socket, with lots of Plus Gas too. If that fails, take the calliper off, put the remains of the ferrule in the bench vice and unscrew the calliper from the ferrule rather than the other way round.