I often use this to protect connectors in critical moisture/damp areas, I used it when I worked in yachting to protect cables that run through a bilge, it even resists salt water.
Just don't spill it on clothing, it won't go off.
I ended up butchering a mini-fuse and fabricated a new pin. Working a treat, for now, anyway.
That got me to reading the fault codes, of which there was just one.
P1178 Maximum Positive AMFR Correction
Quick google suggests MAF needs a scrub?
Having gotten comms working with the ECM, I moved on to the next job in my face, namely cruise control. Followed the rave troubleshooting procedure through to 3D, which requires a drive wheel to be turned by hand. I went for one of the rear ones, but it didn't really want to turn, I'm guessing both wheels on an axle need to be off the ground to do this (I only had one)?
Anyway, figured that was probably not my problem, so continued on to 4D, and after realising the vacuum pump connector, well, wasn't, got it running.
5D then but the valve stubbornly sat there doing nothing. I've replaced the two small pipes going to the T-piece as they were perished, but haven't touched the long pipe which heads off towards the back of the engine. Any idea what that one is for/where it goes? If I disconnect that one, should there be a vacuum on it's T-piece outlet?
The big long pipe goes to the brake pedal valve and is usually okay. You won't be able to turn any of the wheels with only one in the air because of the viscous coupling in the transfer case - well, you can, actually, but only very slowly and by applying a lot of force!
The MAF probably needs a clean anyway but I'd take just about anything the ECU says with a pinch of salt until the heads are done.
True enough re ECU, at least I have a benchmark now though.
Any thoughts on the cruise then - if it's not the brake pedal pipe, could the solenoid in the vacuum pump have failed?
The vacuum hose to the brake pedal switch can get a split in it where it goes through the firewall - mine looked fine at both ends... but I then blew down it, and heard the air hissing out buried in the firewall. Pulled it out and hello split.
To answer the question of a couple of pages back, I've done a cross country run to Shropshire and back tonight. The LPG tank in mine is an 80 litre toroidal so takes 66-67 litres to fill from completely empty. I filled up when setting off and then stopped to refill 203.5 miles later and it took exactly 61 litres. So I'd have got about another 15 miles out of it before it ran out. You can fit a 90 litre full toroidal (one without the hole in the middle and the outlet on the outside) which will take about 75 litres to fill so should be good for 230 miles or so. Obviously you'll use more if running around town, but that's the sort of range you can expect on a run without going to a custom tank setup.
Not too bad I guess; I'll have to stop about two times then between here and the West Country if I'm going that way. Slightly more range than my bike.
Kawasaki ER6F
It isn't the amount of fuel they use but the tiny fuel tanks. I had to deliver a Harley 1340 Fat Boy to Paris and the cheapest option was to ride it there and fly back. Bloody thing only did 90 miles before it had to be put on reserve! Also the most uncomfortable motorcycle I have ever ridden in my life so stopping every 90 miles was actually a benefit but made the journey take forever.
Well, as we're slightly off topic I'll throw my bit in!
When I were a lad, owned a Kawasaki H1A 2 stroke triple, 69 vintage. Had a 3 gallon tank. If ridden "enthusiastically" used to give between 14 and 19 mpg.
Used to spend a lot of time in filling stations. No idea how I could afford it, except back in the 70's students actually used to get paid to go to Uni. Those were the days!
You had a H1 and your still alive, a rarity for sure, they were bloody lethal..
Not too bad once you knew their foibles, Chris. You never, ever, came off the throttle, or came onto the powerband, in the middle of a fast sweeper or it'd throw you into the nearest solid object!
Found an old website I created years ago, which is still alive here.
More details of my killer bikes, mostly with stupid fuel consumption as well. I had a big thing for 2 strokes!
no10chris wrote:
You had a H1 and your still alive, a rarity for sure, they were bloody lethal..
I had a S1 , in fact had 2 of them, then I had the straight liner, Suzuki gt750, that thing was scary, lol
Ah the old Kettle! Used to have a soft spot for them but they were just so BIG when stood side by side with the H2.
Well as you know with Yanks, great, greater and greatest, to me similar to ugly uglier and ugliest. Except Harley (sorry Richard) but that is a disease.
After my BSA 500 single I've had 3 HD's, a 45 cu warbike (23 horses out of 750cc!) that rattled the fillings out of your teeth, a 1200 duo glide and a 1340 Electra Glide. It did 300 kms on the 19 liter tank, I have been in Spain with it and still enjoy the memories.
Mark I understand your affection for those howling 2 strokes, my ex-brother in law had a Kawa 500 which he managed to hit a bridge with, flipped over the railing into the water.
It had cost him his knee but with his left leg still in plaster he repaired the bike and did a testrun, shifting gears with his hand. How mad can you be.
No need to apologise Tony, I just hated the thing. Uncomfortable, heavy, slow, didn't handle, diabolical brakes but as a friend said at the time, in order of sophistication there are cars, motorcycles, agricultural vehicles and Harley's. Closer to a two wheeled tractor than a motorcycle. I can sort of understand it for the US with miles of straight roads and a 55mph limit. With your feet forward and high bars, at anything over 60mph your body is the airbrake, at 70mph it tries to detach your arms from your shoulders.......
I like the line-up you mention, for the two-wheeled tractor this Agria comes to mind, fits in perfectly in your perception and still in use in Spain.
But all the negatives is just what I like, I never had ambition for a sportsbike. They best perform when standard, tuning? forget it. You just move the problem further on the driveline. Higher revs? no use, it has a limiter at 5200 rpm for a reason because the pistons are at their max speed (industrial standard is approx. 27 meters per second, then you are dealing with lubricating problems and need ceramic stuff). Higher torque in lower revs? Andrews has a different cam but then the gearbox can't handle it with it's two-mainshaft design (famous 'trapdoor'). Stronger gearbox? the final belt can't handle the power and you need a double belt design (if the clutch survives).
Only one guy understands how to tune a HD and that is a former employee Eric Buell, he builds it up from scratch using the Sportster engine.
But I like tractors.
Morat wrote:
I'm trying to imagine turning that thing. Do you stand on the tank and kick the bars out the side? :)
Split the rear brakes, for skid steer.