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The only place for a coil spring is up Zebedee's arse
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Wonder what went wrong with your old ECU, since it was working before you started any work? Since a sure fire quick way to destroy an ECU is to apply 12V to chassis or earth connection while the other earth is actually connected to earth, might be worth one more check of wiring.

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F ing thing's run out of gas half way through auto calibration :(

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Sorry Mark, but that just made me laugh out loud........

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That's alright- I laughed too!
Got some weirdness happening with rpm at Gas ECU AND Motronic at the moment. Target rpm and actual rpm don't coincide on Nano. LPG ECU is reporting the Target rpm as actual rpm.
Tacho agrees with actual engine speed.
Idling fine
Data from engine start (cold) to stat open. No throttle input except a blip at the end of the data.
enter image description here

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That's where the number of coils bit comes into the setup. It's showing 4x actual speed.

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I thought that (or something like it) might be the case for the LPG side.
Doesn't explain the petrol (Motronic) discrepancy though.
Found a data run I did when I first got the car (on its original Motronic ECU) and it's showing the same discrepancy.enter image description here
It's not the TPS, which ties in pretty well perfectly to the throttle valve position. Here's a data capture I did (without engine running!) where I increased the throttle pedal position in steps.
enter image description here

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BTW what setting should I be using in LPG setup for number of coils? I've set mine as 2 'cos that's how many coils I've got :)
Fuel type: LPG
Injectors: Matrix
Inj: Sequential
Gas pressure 1.1 bar (should be 1.5 for Super reducer but can't change it)
Revolution signal: Standard
Cylinders:8
Ignition type: 2 coils
Change over: accel
Revs threshold:1600
EDIT- there seems to be a Tacho option
TACHOMETER 2: select this option when in a 6- or 8-cylinder vehicle (with the BROWN wire
connected to the tachometer), RPMs are not being gauged correctly.
Should I be using that?!"

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Going to have another go through the wiring tomorrow, just in case, when my new probing multimeter arrives. It was so cold yesterday that the probe broke off the old one!

Lpgc wrote:

Wonder what went wrong with your old ECU, since it was working before you started any work? Since a sure fire quick way to destroy an ECU is to apply 12V to chassis or earth connection while the other earth is actually connected to earth, might be worth one more check of wiring.

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You have 2 physical blocks that contain the coils but each one has 2 independent coils inside it so you actually have 4. As it's a wasted spark system, each coil will fire once per engine revolution even though each cylinder will only fire on every other spark. But, having just had a quick look at the manual, it seems that your options are only single coil, 2 coils or Tacho. Where is the brown wire connected? Is it on one of the coils or on the rpm output from the petrol ECU? You won't do any damage if you change the settings and see what it shows you. By fiddling around you should be able to get it to display the revs correctly.

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It's connected to the tacho output from the ECU- C0636, pin 17

Gilbertd wrote:

Where is the brown wire connected? Is it on one of the coils or on the rpm output from the petrol ECU? You won't do any damage if you change the settings and see what it shows you. By fiddling around you should be able to get it to display the revs correctly.

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I hope you meant C637 pin 17 as that is the tacho output but that'll be giving 4 pulses per engine revolution and it's expecting to see 1. Two choices, play around with the settings and see if you can find one that makes it read correctly or move the brown wire to pin 2, 6, 7 or 8 on C638 as they are the drivers for the ignition coils and leave it set at dual coils.

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Also note that you might not see actual results of any changes to RPM detection settings you make until after ignition has been turned off. Sometimes it even takes shutting software down and re-starting software.

Where necessary (so not with more recent ECUs) I connect to one of the coils. One coil means one coil per cylinder, two coils means wasted spark, RPM means one pulse per engine spark (tacho usually), so RPM2 may work with wiring you have. If you get no reading or inconsistent reading with a particular setting here, try the 'weak; option.

Simon

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Thanks gentlemen!
As the Target v. Actual rpm in the Motronic is a red herring (although an issue), I'll deal with that separately.
For autocalibration, although the software manual says nothing about it other than follow onscreen prompts, suggestions on how to get around the 2500 rpm static restriction on the P38 with autobox would be welcome.
When doing the run earlier- before gas ran out- I was holding 2500 rpm and when system switched to gas during process, revs started to climb to a point where I had to come off the throttle and thus broke the
Do not try to bring your RPM back to the level it reached when the vehicle was
using PETROL

rule and messing up the calibration, no doubt.

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Would seem mixture went rich (or nearer to correct from previous drastically rich) when it switched to LPG.

Since it is more likely it went rich from correct or a bit lean, first thing first, is mixture correct on petrol?

Assuming it is, go into the map screen, select all the numbers in the table, press enter and apply minus20% to all those figures. Now, when you run autocal again, autocal will begin with a leaner mixture to start with so rpms won't rise as much when it switches to LPG.

Incidentally, if mixture is reading correct on both banks on petrol (lambda flick), sometimes you get a rise in rpm when switched to LPG due to a problem with petrol injector(s), i.e. some flowing more than others so per cylinder mixture isn't correct (only average is correct). If LPG injectors are all good, the increase in rpm can then be due to efficiency gains of the engine when mixture is correct on all cylinders. Particularly sometimes if engine has done a lot of miles on LPG and petrol injectors haven't been used much, or been clogged due to owner running on petrol with next to no fuel in the tank so injectors get fed with mucky tank dregs that made it past the fuel filter..

Simon

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Petrol Lambdas look pretty good to me
enter image description here

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The motronic 'target engine speed' is, so far as I've come to know, normal. I'd ignore it.

Not sure what this 2500rpm stationary limit is? Mine will happily rev all the way to the top in park/neutral. I'd rather not for upsetting the box, but I've accidentally done it once or twice.

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Ah well, if the target engine speed issues not just mine I will ignore!
The 2500 limit is self imposed due to the sprag clutch inversion problem. I'm sure the engine would rev to whatever the lifters decided was maximum, if I let it :)
When some idiot transposed the plug leads and the idle was, understandably, a bit unstable, I had to jump for the key as I saw it hit at least 4000 before I managed to kill it.
No sprag clutch inversion disaster then, fortunately

Sloth wrote:

The motronic 'target engine speed' is, so far as I've come to know, normal. I'd ignore it.

Not sure what this 2500rpm stationary limit is? Mine will happily rev all the way to the top in park/neutral. I'd rather not for upsetting the box, but I've accidentally done it once or twice.

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I've noticed the target engine speed is higher on my Nanocom too when I look at the Motronic ECU. There's also a post on the Nanocom forums (which is unresolved from over a year ago) but also with someone saying that they are getting readings much higher than the actual rpm of the engine.

Looking at your picture, it looks like the 'target' rpm is about 4x what the actual rpm is... so my guess it that might be displaying the actual number of pulses per revolution rather the the rpm.

As far as I was aware, the sprag clutch inversion is normally a result of a skipping transfer case chain and when people still plant it and let it keep skipping.

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Orangebean wrote:

Petrol Lambdas look pretty good to me

So, set working pressure to actual, do the -20% thing and run autocal again ;-)

What injector type did you set, what type are fitted, and what are the numbers in the map after autocal?

On the 'efficiency' and 'inconsistent per cylinder fuelling' points, a good way to tell is by checking manifold pressure or AFM reading. More efficient should see lower manifold pressure and airflow for same rpm with proviso both fuels have correct mixture. In fact, that's a little unfair to LPG because really map and airflow should increase slightly on LPG, if they decrease it points to an issue with petrol injectors. But bare in mind LPG system's reported map can read slightly differently when it's reference voltages are slightly offset, so a slight difference may be due to the LPG ECU driving LPG injectors.

SImon

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Had to abort autocal due to running out of gas!
Just about to have a run up the road to fill up. Autocal will resume after that...