rangerovers.pub
The only place for a coil spring is up Zebedee's arse
Member
Joined:
Posts: 14

hi guys iv had electrical problem with motor warning lights coming on saying doors open tail gate open gearbox over heating got that fixed but gearbox turns out was not electrical that still coming on, no fault code showing when you plug computer in garage that did work think its the oil in gear box is problem but they just do electrics.
can you just change the oils in them does any one know because first local place i rang said new gearbox and i love the car but dont think i can afford new gearbox.

Member
Joined:
Posts: 2312

P38s are very sensitive to system voltage and will throw up all sorts of spurious warnings if the battery is poor, grounds are poor, cables are poor or alternator weak.
After checking your fluid level in gearbox is OK, work your way through the checks here to make sure your electrical system is functioning correctly.
Once you're sure it is, then you can launch into changing the gearbox fluid.
Put your car details and location into your signature so we know exactly what we're dealing with, although in the case of electrical checks the process and numbers you're looking for are pretty much the same whatever you have.
Box fluid level on a GEMS is easy to check cos you have a dipstick. On a Thor you haven't, so have to crawl around underneath. Maybe you've got a manual box?

Member
Joined:
Posts: 647

Hi Gareth, welcome in the pub. First of all, avoid garages that tell you beforehand you need a new gearbox. Do you have anything of a servicehistory of the rig?
What's the mileage, assume it's a 4.6 petrol?
About the box, can you see it has lost oil? If no and the car moves then there is oil inside.
Before some member more skilled than me pops in, do a electrical test as discribed in electrickery section electrical test
As you can read there it can give all sorts of messages when the electrical system is neglected.
Let us know the results.
Tony.

Member
Joined:
Posts: 647

Mark you beat me (again).

Member
Joined:
Posts: 2312

Shhhh Tony- don't share your fantasies on an open forum :)

Member
Joined:
Posts: 647

Problem is, I type too slowly. The hole world can reply before I finish typing and press the reply button.

Member
Joined:
Posts: 14

cheers guys it a 2.5 diesel

Member
Joined:
Posts: 14

got to get kids from school soon il read all this tonight and let you know how i get on

Member
Joined:
Posts: 647

As it's a diesel you should have the 4HP22 with dipstick (or manual).

Member
Joined:
Posts: 805

Late diesels don't appear to have the dipstick on thirstymatics.

Of course if it's saying "GEARBOX OVERHEAT" and it's on a manual box, there's something profoundly weird going on.

Member
Joined:
Posts: 2441

haha, profoundly weird but nothing is actually impossible on a P38 :)

Member
Joined:
Posts: 781

1999 onwards diesel autos did away with the dipstick and just have a plug instead.
The gearbox should not overheat in normal conditions. It is only when towing in 40 deg C + temps.
First thing I would check is the fluid. Run some off see if it is nice and red. Then top it up as per Rave.
If it is OK, it must be electrical. There is a temp sender on the side of the gearbox cooler. You will need to take the front bumper off.

Member
Joined:
Posts: 14

i guys sorry not to answer sooner computer playing up not been able to sign for last 4 or 5 days its an automatic gearbox its drives fine just says over heating i called range rover dealers they say theirs a censor and switch on the cooling system try changing that first before you change gearbox oil but the auto electrical garage can not find this switch and censor

Member
Joined:
Posts: 14

cheers dave3d
il have look later and see if i can see it

Member
Joined:
Posts: 805

The sensor is - or should be! - on the oil cooler at the front. You'll need to take off the radiator grille (four screws along the top, two at the front between the slats) and the centre slam panel (four 13mm bolts) to see it, on the right hand side of the gearbox cooler. Try cleaning up the connector a bit first.

Member
avatar
Joined:
Posts: 8080

I'd say check the wiring to it for a short. Normally a temp sensor will show cold if open circuit and hot if short circuit. If it's disconnected, or got a bad connection, that would make it think it is cold and not hot.

Member
Joined:
Posts: 14

i think my cars dying the air suspension took 15 mins last nigh to go up and auto glass replaced my windscreen last week to see if that stop the leak and it has not got in car last night and the roofs wet ahgggggg

Member
Joined:
Posts: 2312

Generally water doesn't flow uphill. Although there may be a wicking effect from top of windscreen sealant, a wet headlining is more likely sunroof drains or sealant failing in the metalwork.
Have a look at Tony's thread here for ideas.
Too late now as you've had it done, but if you'd found the windscreen sealant had failed it could have been repaired in situ with a gun of mastic for a couple of quid.
Beware of falling into the trap of throwing money at a problem until you're sure of the cause.
IMO the end result of that is getting rid of the car saying that these are unreliable and ridiculously expensive to maintain!

Member
Joined:
Posts: 14

think it mite be the second one has there no sun roof thinking it mite be coming to that maybe see about breaking it for spare parts

Member
Joined:
Posts: 1327

Gotta expect to be kept on ur toes, it's a p38, mine threw a fit this morning with gearbox fault, then died.. surprise surprise, the other half was driving it,, the dying issue was easy, she tried to run it on fresh air, AGAIN, grrrrrrr ! I'm sure she thinks warning lights like fuel level are to make the dash pretty,, must change xyz switch,,
Gareth, have you checked your compressor ? A weak compressor can take ages to lift the car, don't give up yet, better to have a rig that's had the problems sorted out, after a few months on here your be quite well clued up on any problems your likely to have