Changing bonnet release cables is a tedious job! Getting the grommet in the firewall back in place needs the eyesight of a hawk, the flexibility of a teenager and the patience of a saint, none of which I have!
Adjusting the bonnet pins correctly took a while. I started with the pins loose (ish) on mounting plates and slathered in Engineers Blue to get them centred (they weren't!). Went to undo locknuts to deal with depth of penetration (quiet at the back you!) and found the locknut on the stuck side wasn't locked and had allowed the pin, over time, to screw itself back in, making that side a tighter and tighter fit, until ultimately it wouldn't unlatch.
Ah well, nice to know what caused it!
Have once again brought original door handle/ lock home and am definitely going to fit the cam kit tonight. Cut the extraneous metal tag off while at workshop so only have the cleanish fiddly cam to replace. I know how to have fun on a Friday night!
A whole week without Resurrection news!
Door handle refurbed and waiting to be fitted.
Bonnet cable saga- did one final check before buttoning down grille etc and the new cable outer LHS popped out of the catch mech! Won't do it again though as now pinned in place. Something to watch for though, as the plastic housings do take a bit of a beating and the small clip extrusions in the slot that holds the cable outer in the catch mech (on mine at least) were worn.
LPG- replaced all flexible hoses. Had to wait until today for 22mm coolant hose to arrive for connection from bulkhead to T pieces. Now fitted. Cooling system vacuum filled and leak tested (ie it held vacuum).
LPG wiring- correct colour/ size cabling arrived yesterday so new ignition switched (picked up from C0572 under fusebox) and permanent power cables (picked up from input stud into fusebox and fused) going in tomorrow.
Won't be putting the binnacle surround etc back in until I've run it for a while to be sure the slightly suspect heater O rings aren't leaking.
So, after a final bleed and burp of cooling system, BOTR tomorrow?
I hope so. Had to tax blue one (at least I get unused back) and need to get it ready for the bay by 7th as insurance out on 18th. Doesn't leave much time...
Orangebean wrote:
Bonnet cable saga- did one final check before buttoning down grille etc and the new cable outer LHS popped out of the catch mech! Won't do it again though as now pinned in place.
Same with me. I think that can happen when shutting the bonnet and the innercable becomes loose for a moment.
One cm behind the plastic piece I drilled a hole in the slampanel and a tiewrap holds up the outercable so it will not fall out again (I hope).
Not a sunday solution but it works.
Success on the testride!
It's alive.....again!
After a couple of days of enforced non-functioning due to a stomach bug (me, not car), spent today tidying up new wiring, checking all joints on new gas pipes, filling bleeding and burping cooling system, it runs and even drives.
Could only drive back from workshop to home (headlight alignment needs doing) so no time to check gas operation, but am cautiously optimistic as I now have status lights on switch working at all times.
Still no signs of life from radio though. It was fine before the first time I disconnected the battery. Now dead- no lights, nothing. NAV still initialises its display. Not even started fault finding on it yet, although with my usual pessimism am fearing the demise of the DSP amp.
Feeling slightly chuffed though...
If the headunit is not lighting up, its unlikely to be the DSP amp, so no need to worry yet.
Not worrying as such Sloth, more resigned to the fact that, sooner or later, the DSP's fail. This one was brand new from Land Rover in 2011 and I'm hoping it'll live a bit longer.
Given the way the fault presents (as I said, haven't even started to fault find yet) I'm thinking it's going to be cr@p wiring somewhere. There's been cr@p wiring everywhere I've touched under the bonnet, and replaced, so far.
I'm starting to build up a stock of thinwall cable in P38 loom colours now :)
EDIT: I'm looking forward to actually getting on with improving the car, rather than just treading water.
Improvements so far:
Original engine ECU installed... actually, that's not really an improvement!
0
Still fault finding random voltage issue in LPG (see my "LPG- what wears out" in oily bits. Getting random switched 5 volts at LPG switch instead of constant!
Anyway, sitting in car watching petrol light go on and off, timing intervals suddenly get Airbag Fault message on panel + SRS light. Nano says Drivers Airbag open circuit permanent. Sure enough, wouldn't clear down.
Turn off car, unplug and clean all yellow connectors visible under dash. Fault clears without Nano assistance.
Sidetracked into doing electrical circuit/ battery/ charging health checks. Passed all- well within tolerances.
Re the radio power, the Nav unit "talks" successfully through the centre fascia speaker. No idea if that's all that speaker does 'cos system's too rare for it to be described, even in the handbook supplement for the audio system.
I'm betting there's a sh!tty connection to the radio somewhere though...
SRS fault should clear. GEMS needed a reset, Thor clears as soon as the fault is no longer there.
Replied to the LPG 5v issue on your other thread..
Saw that Simon- thanks
Lpgc wrote:
Replied to the LPG 5v issue on your other thread..
Blooming GEMS/ Thor differences in the way they handle stuff! First sign of a fault code and I instinctively note it and clear fault!
Gilbertd wrote:
SRS fault should clear. GEMS needed a reset, Thor clears as soon as the fault is no longer there.
Put the LPG work on hold today, as drove it home in the rain for first time yesterday evening and found the drivers wiper was clearing not only the screen but the A pillar, while the passenger wiper cleaned the plenum cover.
Time to fit the new ball jointed arms that I've had on the shelf for ages and clean things up a bit
From this:
To this:
Second one is upside down! (Just kidding)
Remember the guidance Gilbertd gave me: Short arm (twisted mounting) + short blade = driverside, long arm (straight mounting) + long blade = passenger side.
Whilst putting the arms/ blades back on the black one, went out to look at the blue one and they've been fitted backwards all the time I've had it!!
Never had any issues with wipers clonking anything, juddering or bad performance on there though.
Strange...
Thought I'd give an update on how the resurrection is going.
Car now has the Audi heater matrix conversion. Took the opportunity to change the coolant T's to metal. Now running 19mm hose all the way through.
Refurbed the HEVAC panel with new bulbs and Marty's ribbon repair kit, which worked a treat. Nice and bright, no missing segments. Thanks Marty!
Stripped and refurbed the heater box, freeing up all flaps, replacing nasty foam and fitting new Distribution motor.
Replaced the 8 (!) blown bulbs in the instrument panel
Replaced OS door latch, handle, ignition lock.
Fitted original BECM (today). Slight glitch as got the expected Keycode Lockout but couldn't clear with Nano or traditional key-in-the-lock code EKA entry. BECM info was garbled, French so feared the worst. Fired off email to Marty to arrange for a BECM unlock. Eureka moment (accidental). Had a cuppa, went back to car. Message Centre now black. Tried EKA via Nano again. Hit Disarm, locks went clunk, all good!
Front carpet cleaned- not great, but OK
Now have to finish repairing/ cleaning front seats and change the gear selector cable to try and solve the stiff lever problem.
After that I might just drive it around for a while.
Need to source some late Lightstone rear door cards. No chance of finding the ones with the extra speaker holes so will have to do some mods to whatever I get. Mind you, until I sort out the unresponsive head unit, the speakers aren't much use anyway!
Does the head unit power up at all? I have a spare Alpine head unit, which is fully functioning - but keeping it on the shelf for awhile as working ones seem to be worth a pretty penny, and I haven't yet decided if I'll keep it/use it in the '00 or go down the all-in-one route that I've got on my P38.
I did get your emails - sorry I haven't responded... been in the garage working on HEVAC controllers, and heater boxes, and finish off putting the fuse box back together from my '98 as it smells a bit burnt/crispy - but after pulling it apart and cutting the joining pins to get it all open, it's in great condition - tidied up a few solder joints, but nothing burnt or horrible in there!
I may have late lightstone door cards for the rear - I know I have a whole lot of lightstone door cards, but also have a funny feeling I've only got one rear one, rather than both... but I would need to go up to the workshop and have a look through them all to be sure.
Haven't really got into the head unit yet Marty. At the moment all I know is that it shows no sign of life- used to work until first time I disconnected the battery. After that, no display, no noise, nothing.
I have a working spare which I'll stick in and see what happens. Electrics on that car are bugging me constantly. Spent an amusing hour today standing on my head in the passenger footwell sorting out green connectors. Couple of pins were so corroded that they fell apart when I tried cleaning them. Even more amusing was cutting the cables back more and more until the conductors were clean enough to take solder for the spliced hardwire.
Need to get on with the stiff gear selector problem so I can get the centre box back in.
If you've got any cards lying around that would be good, but there's no rush. Plenty of other stuff to do in the meantime!
Sorry to hijack, but have a quick question about hevac reassembly. How do you align the distribution cogs correctly?
The external flap drive segments or the blend motor internals?
External- I marked them all before I took them apart!
From memory though there are a couple of little bosses that lined up at one end or other of the arc.
Internal- pics here
mace wrote:
Sorry to hijack, but have a quick question about hevac reassembly. How do you align the distribution cogs correctly?
Result!
Spare head unit works. Sound system now fully functioning again...
Back to the "Do I buy a Grom" dilemma again :)
EDIT- sheeet that sound system sounds good. Even the sub punches when cranked up with no farting noises.
OK time to stop playing and get back to the oily stuff. Gear selector mech and cable...
Hmmmm good to hear...
If you don't want the old/dead one then I could be interested in purchasing it from you to pull apart and test/strip down/repair...
Glad it's all working with the replacement head unit though...
If you're doing work on it, and the DSP amp still works fine at the moment, then it might be worth pulling it out anyway and making sure the connectors aren't green and there's no sign of moisture on the main board, it might help prolong the life of it! If it all looks good, then I'd almost be tempted to spray the board with PCB lacquer to seal it all from moisture in the future anyway..