Green two pin one, probably from somewhere around the front looking at the loom its attached to.
No problem, drop me a pm with your address, I'll pop it in the post with some heat shrink..
mace wrote:
Steel inserts, is that the rounded socket that the push rod engages with? I'd say they look sunken, but not knowing what unsunken is supposed to look like makes it difficult to judge.
That's the ones. This is one that has sunk into the alloy from a car in the batch that suffered the problem. It had two that had sunk but when running it did sound very tappety. Compare yours and if they are all down by the same amount, you are OK.
Hmm, I wonder if that's what's happened to mine?
I've also read that it's worth checking the pads on the other side too, that contact the top of the valve ..
Seen pictures of the pads that have either worn or shift slightly which can cause rattles etc.
The pads shouldn't wear, or if they do, it'll be an oval wear patch as they are designed to slide over the top of the valve. There was a TSB for the sinking inserts though, it affects chassis numbers from WA382672 to WA391018 (so early to mid '98) and the symptom is a tappety noise which you wouldn't normally get with the hydraulic followers. The car that this came from is the one my mate in France has and is slap in the middle of the affected range. He had two that had gone like that, one worse than the other, but you could definitely hear the worse of the two at idle.
it affects chassis numbers from WA382672 to WA391018 (so early to mid '98) and the symptom is a tappety noise which you wouldn't normally get with the hydraulic followers.
WA388896. Well fuck.
Edit: actually, now I think about it I changed the engine but it was apparently from a late GEMS vehicle.
Here's the TSB and what you should be looking for. An engine from a late GEMS could well be one from the same batch.
Reasonably productive day, thanks to Gordon again.
Heads and rockers now back on the engine with the arp studs.
I took the hevac unit out last night so that's now been cleaned and the foam removed from the top. Will lube it up tomorrow and get it refitted.
Heater seals were shot, so replacements were in order anyway. I can see why folks who disturb the pipes in the engine bay have issues afterwards. Heater core looks great though.
Water temperature sensor replaced too, it was knackered.
Possibly a question for Gilbert, where did you drill your inlet manifold for the LPG nozzles? And where did you mount the injectors?
Here's where the bolt plugging the hole that was drilled and tapped for the injectors on mine is. You need to get them as close to the petrol injector as you can but ideally not getting in the way of any of the manifold bolts. You don't really want to be tugging and heaving at a pipe on a brass nozzle just so you can lift the manifold off, you want to be able to take it off complete.
I've never got around to going any further with mine, I'm still running with the bolts plugging the holes and the old singlepoint (Leonardo system, the same a Gordon's) fitted. I've got a multipoint system that I could fit but am not sure if the effort and advantages outweigh the disadvantages of the singlepoint. My original intention was to find some injectors that were available in banks of 2 and 4. Fit a 4 way bank to the centre plenum bolt on bank 2 and the fit two banks of 2 on the corner plenum bolts at each end on the other side. That way there would be a pair of injectors either side of the intake and it would keep all the hoses short and the same length.
Incidentally although I knew that the tappets were supposed to rotate I didn't realise they rotated quite as quickly as that! With the engine turning over on the starter they were probably doing a full turn every second!
Todays progress.
Lower and upper inlet manifold cleaned up fairly well.
Lower inlet manifold drilled and tapped, with much trepidation, for the LPG nozzles.
Another island 4x4 order in for various breathers etc that look aged or are actually visibly knackered. Also getting new o-rings for the injectors.
When we did the turn-over test on the starter, the first time round we forgot the engine ground, and the starter clicked away a couple of times then stopped. After that it didn't do anything at all until we properly grounded the block. Given that the vast majority of the wiring harness is disconnected for the heads being off, any quick guesses as to where it was initially getting a ground from, and how fried is that thing/wire likely to be ;)
Probably that daft wee wire with the M5 bolt onto the strut tower.
For the coolant hoses to the LPG reducer, I'm thinking about completely replacing the factory pipe with some silicone hoses which reduce in size, ala:
Theory being, less joins being both tidier and hopefully less points to leak.
Any reason why that might not be a good plan?
Colour wise I'd like to go classic, but I can't wait a month so will probably end up going standard black.
Quick one, oil separator that sits in breather for one of the rocker covers. Which cover does it go in? I've had conflicting advise as to which side..
Drivers!
Whichever way round your car is, it's the side that doesn't have the oil filler cap.
That's cos your steering wheel has accidentally been fitted on the wrong side :)
Ferryman wrote:
Mine is passenger ☺
Orangebean wrote:
That's cos your steering wheel has accidentally been fitted on the wrong side :)
Chortle. :)
Back to the project..
I bought the above head gasket kit for this job, and I've been mostly ignoring the bag of gizzards. Can anyone identify all the bits I actually need from the bag?
Going by the photo on the above link, stuff I already know about:
2 x head gaskets
2 x rocker cover gaskets
4 x exhaust manifold gaskets
1 x inlet manifold gasket (valley gasket)
2 x inlet manifold seals (the rubber bits)
16 x valve stem seals
16 x o-rings for the injectors
That leaves:
8 x big square sided rubber rings, right hand side of the picture
8 x small square sided rubber rings, top left of the picture, above the head gaskets
2 x big o-rings (coolant pipe sized), right hand side of the picture, inside the rocker cover gasket
3 x assorted paper/cardboard gaskets, bottom middle of the picture
1 x metal round gasket, top middle of the picture above the valley gasket
3 x assorted copper coloured metal rings, right hand side of the picture, inside the rocker cover gasket
2 x rubber seals, top right hand side of the picture, inside the rocker cover gasket
Island 4x4 can't tell me what any of the bits are, other than some will be for older/other engines, which isn't overly helpful.
They are right, it's generic set that includes gaskets and O rings for all models, including the Classic engine which has a distributor and a different thermostat arrangement. So that explains a couple of the O rings and the metal gasket. The funny shaped gasket at the front, on the left, is for the throttle body heater and I've always assumed the other 2 gaskets are for the same but on a Thor. No idea what the big and small square sided O rings are for but they may come in handy one day for something. I believe Thor injector O rings are a different size to GEMS ones so that may be what the smaller ones are for.