I purchased a 1999 P38 in June of 2016 - and after 9+ months I have finally brought it home. The story is long and full of villains, however, it is finally in my care. The driver side rearview mirror is smashed, due to the vehicle being parked outside of one of the mechanic's shops for a few months. Need to know where to obtain a new one here in France. Also need to find a new mechanic (doesn't that seem obvious?) Vehicle seems to drive okay, but over 90 km per hour it starts to shake a bit. Any ideas on what might be the issue here? This is my first RR, though not my first suv.

Thanks in advance for any input/advice.

At least it's now running! Been a long sad story so far.
Mirror- many breakers in UK will post to EU so try eBog.
Depends how badly it's broken eg just glass or whole thing.
Memory or non-memory? You'll need to count pins on connector- pop off tweeter, unplug connector.
Example here: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Range-Rover-P38-4-6-Electric-Heated-Door-Mirror-LH-Left-10Pin-13Way-Memory-Good-/132134211659?
More details needed on shake:
Misfire?
Steering wheel?
Front or back?
acceleration or cruising?
It's been standing around for so long that tyres may have flat-spotted. Been in bits so check wheelnuts are tight!

I wonder if the left and right mirrors are interchangeable between LHD and RHD models - which is yours?

For your vibration probably the first thing to check is that the wheels are balanced and straight. If it's been fitted with L322 wheels, they need a little spacer ring for the centre otherwise they run off-centre and vibrate. It's also worth checking the propshafts for any wear and play in the UJs, and getting some grease in there.

gordonjcp wrote:

I wonder if the left and right mirrors are interchangeable between LHD and RHD models - which is yours?

Yes they are, they both have two pre-fixed positions, depending on what side the wheel is.

I got a complete mirror arm from Emmots of Calne for £35.

OldShep56 wrote:

I got a complete mirror arm from Emmots of Calne for £35.

So your thread-question "Where to begin?" becomes answered, right here!

BTW I've read your ongoing story from the beginning on 'the other site' and really felt sorry for you to go from one butcher-mechanic to the other, from memory you started with a transportation problem because the Rangey overheated.
I know being a butcher is a well respected profession in France but only when there is meat involved.
Glad you did not lose faith in your P38, this is the place to start.
Tony.

The saga continues... sigh. When I picked it up on Thursday, the key would unlock the door, but would not remotely unlock. Does that make sense? After reading instruction on how to sync the key fob to get the remote part of it working, I tried to do this... but that seems to have mucked up things all the more. Now when I unlock the door, the alarm goes off. Won't stop until I lock the door again. How did this happen and How Can I fix it? I can't take much more of this. I believe the vehicle is cursed.

They're not cursed but all P38s are posessed by Gremlins who need regular sacrifice of time and treasure. Sometimes blood!
You can appease the gremlins by regular worship using the sacred scripture of RAVE and the holy instrument of Nanocom.

More seriously, why don't you post up a list of your current faults. It's easier to prioritise that way, and sometimes seemingly unrelated faults can suggest a common root cause to an expert because these vehicles seem to specialise in unforseen consequences.

Morat,

List of current faults begins with the fact that the EKA isn't working. REALLY bad news is that the vehicle is parked at the Mairie - (neighborhood parking lot) and I have to have it moved for upcoming function. Have tried and tried and just can't get this stupid alarm to stop. Is there a way to disconnect the alarm? I would happily pull the plug on that just so I could drive the vehicle.

Thanks
Teri

I assume you've tried the EKA dance using the door lock and that has failed? Are you getting messages on the dash saying "Engine Immobilised" when you try to start it?
I was in the same position due to faulty microswitches in the door lock and I bought a Nanocom EVO to enter the EKA directly into the Body Electronics Control Module (using the diagnostics plug under the passenger dash).

You can't just disconnect the alarm. Well, you can disconnect the sounder but the engine still won't start.

Best to post up exactly what happens and in what order so that the real experts can diagnose this remotely.

As I've just posted in OB's thread. I'll be over there in the middle of May so if you can get it moved from where it is to somewhere where it can be left, I could plug the Nano in then. Might be worth contacting RRHSG if it is more urgent though. He is in Versailles so a lot closer than most of us and knows someone with a Nanocom who might be able to enter the EKA using that for you.

Who is RRHSG? I didn't think there was anyone that close to me in the forum.

I'll keep it on the one thread rather than wandering off from OB's. RRHSG is this bloke https://rangerovers.pub/topic/354-02-sensor-voltage-fixed-low and he owns this place http://equilibre-bar.com/ hence considering dropping in to meet him when I'm over there next month (I've even got my Cat 1 Crit' Air vignette on my windscreen). With a Nanocom you can type in the EKA and enter it from there rather than having to waggle the key from side to side. Chances are you've got nothing more complicated than a dodgy microswitch in the drivers door latch which is a simple fix with a recon latch from Marty.

I'm starting to get mixed up aswell, between these 2 threads, and private emails about this, so I will post here what I just posted in the other thread aswell - though looking at it, - the same applies to RRHSG if he gets there first...

Yes, the Nanocom will do what you need it to.

Gilbertd - apparently the fobs aren't syncing up, so there must be issues with the RF somewhere... but as far as Nanocom is concerned, if you just go in and switch off the passive immobiliser, it should stop the need for the EKA when trying to unlock in the drivers door. Though, it might also be worth checking the drivers door latch microswitches in Nanocom (BECM->INPUTS->DOORS/LOCKING from memory) as it seems double strange that sometimes it needs the EKA but sometimes it doesn't, and sometimes it accepts the EKA and sometimes it doesn't.

When the BECM was here for unlocking about 6 months ago, I checked the fob codes against the fob that was sent, and they checked out against what was stored in the BECM - so everything should work as it was originally intended. Though I don't know what the mechanic who had the vehicle for so long has done to it in the meantime!

All of this makes me think that Land Rover should offer an option of a nanocom when you buy the vehicle. :)

Well, I quickly came to the conclusion that it was money well spent. The moment those door pins clunked up was worth £300.

Morat wrote:

Well, I quickly came to the conclusion that it was money well spent. The moment those door pins clunked up was worth £300.

---

If you like you can come and listen to mine for £50 a time...

Which is competitive if you don't have a Nanocom :)

Ba-ha. If I were closer to any of you, I would already be knocking on your door to get this resolved. As it is, I am still trying to find someone with a nanocom near Paris - that might be able to make a housecall. The mechanic that had it in the fall when Marty fixed the BECM figured anyone that had something to fix that was a "computer nerd" (not sure of the exact term since it was said in French). I would have thought he would have a nanocom being that Land Rover directed us to him as a certified LR mechanic. Welcome to France.

mymysteri wrote:

Ba-ha. If I were closer to any of you, I would already be knocking on your door to get this resolved. As it is, I am still trying to find someone with a nanocom near Paris - that might be able to make a housecall. The mechanic that had it in the fall when Marty fixed the BECM figured anyone that had something to fix that was a "computer nerd" (not sure of the exact term since it was said in French). I would have thought he would have a nanocom being that Land Rover directed us to him as a certified LR mechanic. Welcome to France.

A certified LR mechanic without the correct tools (Testbook)
Well, I don't work for BlackBox but I think you should buy a Nanocom and get your problem fixed asap. Firstly because it's worth the money to get your car running and secondly because every time you ask someone to run diagnostics they're going to to charge you £50 and only use a useless Snap-On generic ODBII decoder which won't tell you anything useful. You may as well get Torque for your phone if you're using plain ODBII and save the hassle of calling up the garage.

In the bigger picture of P38 ownership, the price of a Nanocom is just the ante.