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The only place for a coil spring is up Zebedee's arse
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If the reducer is hot and the inlet and outlet pipes from the heater matrix are both hot, you've got flow through there. How do you know the blend motors are working? If the matrix is hot and the blend motors were working you'd get hot air. Something is definitely not right here and at the moment I'm struggling to think what.

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Dash is still in pieces so I can visually inspect the blend motors and the flap positions. They are where they should be.

It just occurred to me that I've not screwed the two halves together yet (got distracted during reassembly), so that might be allowing air to escape. Will check that tomorrow. Not convinced the gap is big enough to prevent any heat pickup though.

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Would a ramp work, or will it level itself off?

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mace wrote:

Would a ramp work, or will it level itself off?

Dunno, what was the question?

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Gordon suggested a few posts back putting the front off side wheel on a ramp to raise the header tank.

My badly worded question was whether the vehicle would sit at an angle as desired, or whether it would level itself out?

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It won't level itself that much, and if it does you can probably fiddle it with the Nanocom - or indeed just unplug the solenoids.

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I found that just unclipping and lifting the expansion tank on my GEMS gave me enough lift to ensure that with coolant at level mark it was highest point in system (lpg vapouriser was mounted quite high).
I found it so useful I modded the expansion tank clip to raise the front by around 3 cm permanently. Had to relieve the padding under bonnet in vicinity of filler cap but all in all an easy mod.
I use a vacuum filling system on the Thor and have had, after several refills, no bleeding issues.

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I don't want to spoil the party but you must first see to it that the system is tight. You mention a spraying overflowtube at the rad when hot due to a bodgerepair, fix that first by fitting a new radiator. Repairs have been proven to be unsuccessful.
Tony.

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Suggestions for good radiator brands then? Island only have britpart.

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I put a Bearmach in mine not long after I got it in 2010, still fine after 100,000+ miles.

https://www.lrdirect.com/PCC106940-Radiator-Rr-P38-Petrol/

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Alternative to Bearmach is a Nissens for around the same price
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Nissens-Radiator-64302A-Fit-with-Land-Rover-Range-Rover-/330843640200?

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Ta. Best replace the two fans whilst I'm in there too. One is seized and the other incredibly tight.

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My favourite breaker has some in. Comparatively cheap too
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Range-Rover-P38-Air-Conditioning-Condenser-Radiator-Fans-STC3680-with-warranty-/262825804996?

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I can feel a phone call and a big order going in to that guy.

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While wandering idly through radiators, I found this one
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DIRENZA-TWIN-CORE-ALUMINIUM-RADIATOR-RAD-FOR-LAND-RANGE-ROVER-P38-V8-4-0-4-6-94-/350591602189?
If I were going to replace a rad on mine, I'd be tempted to go for an all aluminium one with extra cooling capacity- but that's just me...

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Ooh, that's pretty. Not as expensive as I would expect either. A lot cheaper than the one some guy in the States was allegedly supplying (if he actually supplied any....).

Like OB, if I needed a radiator, I'd definitely be going for one of those.

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Typically they don't seem to do one for the Thor... I looked around for an alloy one when I did the engine swap, and all I could find were GEMS versions... grrrr..

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Do the dimensions of that Direnza one look about right to those that've seen a rad out?

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Looks about right, it's too dark to check mine but I think it has the kicked-up bottom hose like that.

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Comparing the dimensions with those of the Nissens linked to by OB, it looks to be about spot on. All the fixings and hose stubs appear to be in the right place too (for a pre-99 GEMS car anyway).