Ordered, along with a new header tank.
Has anyone tried putting an inline bleed nipple in on the heater matrix feed?
I did see a tophose of a Disco once (well, not fitted but on a pile of other stuff) that had a bleednipple. As this is the highest point it seems very useful to me.
I don't know if it was homemade, it looked very professional.
Ebay suggests its OEM, going by one random hit I landed on.
I've ordered a 16mm inline bleeder to stick in that hose (it's already reduced from 22mm for the LPG reducer).
The later Classics (88-93) had the heater feed through a pair of steel pipes that ran along the top of the RH head and one of those had a vertical 'chimney' in it with a cap on the top so you could bleed the air out and top it up once the system was filled and bled. However, they didn't have the return to the header tank in the heater return like the P38 does, that came off the bottom hose so I suspect that is why it was there. A bleed nipple isn't going to do any harm though and will make bleeding the heater circuit easier.
Ferryman wrote:
I did see a tophose of a Disco once (well, not fitted but on a pile of other stuff) that had a bleednipple. As this is the highest point it seems very useful to me.
I don't know if it was homemade, it looked very professional.
Mine has one so would assume that can only mean its original, does actually help with bleeding too.
Todays progress, albeit backwards.
Front bumper off, and started dismantling things to get the fans out and the main rad ready for removal. I'll drain it once I have the replacement in my hands, just in case I need to move the vehicle before then.
Fans came off, one does actually spin, both by hand and under power, but it's stiff and a little graunchy. The other one is welded, and even applying a direct 12 volt feed to it from the battery did nothing more than produce pretty sparks.
Top two bolts came undone ok, but the bottom two sheared, and they aren't coming out unless I can get to the back of the air con condenser after removing the main rad. Even then, I'm not holding my breath.
Windscreen washer pump seems to have given up the ghost in the last few weeks, so checked all three pumps, and two of them are dead (windscreen and headlight washers). More bits to buy, yay. Am I safe going second hand from the place in Norfolk, or should I not skimp and just go new on these?
In the cabin, noticed a tiny weep of red coolant coming down from the joint onto the heater matrix, so will have to get back into that once the coolant has been drained. Given that I've used new seals, any thoughts on how else to fix this? Copious amounts of goo?
Carpet is very slightly damp again too on the drivers side, but I think (hope) that's rainwater as the scuttle panel is off for access to the bolts holding the dash framework in place.
Am I safe going second hand from the place in Norfolk, or should I not skimp and just go new on these?
Well, on my GEMS, I have one of these:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVER-RANGE-ROVER-P38-1994-TO-2002-WASHER-PUMP-PART-AMR3271-/261673441758?
Still working after a couple of years
On the Thor I have one of these from Furness (says headlight, but all 3 pumps are the same, just different connector socket colour)
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Range-Rover-P38-Headlight-Headlamp-Wash-Washer-Motor-Pump-AMR3272-with-Warranty-/232232386357?
Or why not treat yourself to a genuine LR one- only £63.00 :)
I had a seized electric fan too but when I put a socket on the front bumper bolts and started to try to turn them they moved but with that feeling that it was the bolt about to shear rather than come undone. So I left it in place and managed to get the bottom bolts out with an 8mm combination spanner.
When you changed the O rings you have to be careful that they are seated properly. I found that by nipping the screw up so it was just starting to put some pressure on, wiggling the pipes made them seat properly. If they weren't seated fully, they will have been wiggled around when you've been fitting the hoses at the other end, under the bonnet and the screw is now loose. Unless you've done the Audi core mod, in which case the leak is of your own making......
No audi core mod here, thanks. :P
A leak at the O rings would also explain your difficulty getting all the air out too. As fast as you get it out the top more is getting in at the bottom.
Maybe you should do the mod, and then you wouldn't be worrying about having to go in again ;)
Washer pumps - I've been through 2 cheap brand new ones now - both on the rear, they only seemed to last about 9 months each time. So personally, I'd go for a second hand LR one, but then you could get a duff one of those too... The third time I had to do my rear one, I grabbed one from the workshop that was lying around second hand and it's doing just aswell!
Cheers Martyuk, that swings it for me. Norfolk folks it is.
I'm not worring about going back in. The dash is still resembling a T1000 so getting at everything is trivial.
Could be right about air getting in there, but equally it could just be the pressure that's blowing past the O-rings at the same time as it blows out in the engine bay. I'm pretty certain the water on the carpet isn't coolant, as the coolant is a nice red colour, and this water isn't. The couple of drops of coolant on the heater matrix don't appear to have made their way further down either.
Oh the other new fault that it's exhibiting is that it's not parking the rear wiper. It's just stopping randomly in the middle of the screen. Thoughts?
Re water in the footwell, I wonder if it's actually the A/C drain(s) blocked, since I've been messing around with the HEVAC a lot. Pretty sure the air con actually works in this car (or did prior to engine disassembly). Will have to check the drains tomorrow in daylight.
Took the pipes off the air-con housing, and.. dry. I've not tried sticking something up the way to check it's not blocked there yet. And more weepage visible on the heater matrix pipes.
Deliveries starting to arrive today.
Inline bleed valve came first, branded Kalori. Looks tidy.
Replacement fan pack, fans spin by hand, not tried powering them yet, but I'm sure they'll be good.
New rad. Very shiny, but the welding leaves a little to be desired. Externally it's not too bad, although there is some skag around one of the top brackets, will need to see if that fouls on fitting. Internally, something is rattling, I'm guessing a bit of skag fell off in transit. Looking through the bottom pipe, there's a lot of skag from welding in there, not blocking the pipe but not pretty at all.
I might take some photos later if I can be bothered with the faff of uploading.
Faff of uploading, You need a host where you can store your pics like Photobucket, ImgSafe or similar.
From there you copy the url of the pic and paste it in the post.
Richard explained it to GeorgeB and he managed to show his pics all the way from Manilla so must be easy peasy for you.
The thread is here
I have a host, my own, I just don't like using the public ones ;)
So no problem then, show your pics!
Pfft. Made me set up a new virtual host and install software and everything.
Direnza twin core aluminium radiator
Air-con fans from Furness
Inline 16mm bleed valve
You can show the images in the thread by pasting in the image link (use the 5th box from right) like this:
First time I've ever seen aluminium welded by pouring in metal though. You going to keep it or return it and go OEM?