I've got the stuck one that I took off, with the broken tag. I'll take pictures when I take it apart.

Just doing mine with the STC kits today - what's the trick to getting the roll pin out of the old cam? I can't seem to find a way to remove the cam without removing the roll pin.

Assuming you have a new cam to replace it with (!), using a small pair of side cutters just snip away enough plastic to be able to grip the end of the pin. It's not usually too tight once you get a grip on it with the pliers.

Ah, cool. Cheers.

Updated picture links. Now working.

I was reading this thread, and I would like to ask how difficult is it to change the lock barrel from the drivers door to a new/replacement door handle.

I know that the other three doors in the P38 [passenger front and rear, and driver side rear] are straight forward as they don't have a lock barrel, I want to refit my original key barrel as I have recently bought two new key fobs for the vehicle.

From one video that I saw [very poorly filmed] it seemed that there is only a single screw holding the barrel in place but is that correct ?

I have decided [ more or less] that I am going to fit all new handles as the paint work on my vehicle is very good, no corrosion anywhere, so I think that new handles would be the best. Unless I take all the handles out and get them colour-coded, which could be a possibility, as well.

Also, I would like to check to see if the door card, inside panel, has to be removed ? And how difficult is that to do ?

Pierre3.

Not tried to swap a lock so can't help on that but getting the door panel off is simple enough. You'll ideally need a flat trim tool but can get away with a wide screwdriver at a push. Pop the tweeter housing off (just pull) and there's a screw behind that to take out. Take out the screw inside the inside handle and remove the surround (needs a bit of a twist to slide out), then there's two screws under the armrest to come out. Start at the bottom, lever the trim panel away from the door, work your way around until you can just lift it off. You'll probably find that some of the trim clips stay in the door rather than staying on the door trim. Pull them out and fit them back to the trim before you try to put it back

If you're looking at colour coding I'd advise against the body coloured covers. Mine has them and they're a bit crap. They don't really match and they seem to mark up very quickly. I've left them on only because they still work and I'd imagine there will be some horrible adhesive residue left behind if I try to take them off.

Hi, thanks for the replies.

Morat - I was talking to a guy who has done a bit of work on our company vans, a spray painter. He says that he could spray them Monte Carlo Blue, which is the colour of my vehicle. I have never liked the stick-on things as they always mess up the surface underneath.

Gilbertd [or RichardG?] thanks for the instructions about taking off the door card. I will look at the whole thing as a project for after Easter. At the moment only the passenger side handle is showing the signs of wear, with the handle not pulling fully in.

Pierre3.

After Easter? Blimey, that's what I call advance planning.

I like to be prepared, as they say in the Boy Scouts - although the less said about the Boy Scouts the better !!!!! I'm afraid that they make me think that they had some rather strange habits !!!

I have to get the repair kits, and I need to consider whether to get the original handles resprayed to either the cars' colour, Monte Carlo blue, or matt black similar to the original colour.

I don't especially want to spend the best part of £350 on new handles, although, thinking about it, it might just be quicker and more cost effective than repairing the originals and having them painted. At least, if I buy new items then I know that they will be good for another 20 years, or thereabouts. Mind you, I'm sure that the vehicle will have long been scrapped by then if muppets like that Greta Thunberg keep squealing about global warming.

Again, I would like to ask whether it is difficult to change the drivers' door handle but retain the original lock barrel and/or remote key fob ? I have recently bought a new fob and I certainly don't want to have pay out for another new fob. At least I currently have all original keys and fobs, and I don't want to change that.

Any advice on what to do about the drivers' side handle is gratefully received.

Pierre3.

Dear All,
Does anyone have a link to photos of the door handle repair and the bit of metal you remove? All the older threasds on different sites seem to have lost their photos.

The photos are all still here on this thread. If you mean the bit of metal you remove from the door latch (to make getting it in and out easier) it's the bit that sticks out and performs no useful function whatsoever.

Finally came time to do this long postponed task.
I obviously did not remember to check in advance the topic (which I had earmarked since long time), so I did not think of the zip tie trick. Lots of fumbling and swearing came handy to finish the job however.
I will try the zip-tie trick when I do the driver's door (LH as I am LHD), as I see to have misplaced STC3063 ... I did only the passenger's door as I found only STC3064 in my spares' box.

I also replaced the pull-handle from a spare I had laying around. I recommend that if your original part is very worn. It wears in the rod that sticks to the cam, and also in the front (towards front of the car) where it pivots every time is used.
Both front and rear handles are the same in this regard, so you can use a rear one, less used.

The part that is unique is front vs. rear, so you need to re-use yours, provided is not too worn.
I wanted to replace also the plastic cover, as mine was very "whitish", but I was unable to remove the cover from the metal assembly. Any tips there?

Hi all,

After 5 long months, I finally have my kit. I can't picture this part of the instructions "put one end of loop under small arm of spring and press spring/ bar/ cable tie combo on table top.
Bring long arm of spring over into its tensioned position and tighten cable tie to hold that tension"
How do I do this?

I just put the cable tie around both ends and tightened.

th.

I tried and tried to do it with the zip tie and was unable to do it that way. I also did not understand much the wording, but if you have everything disassembled in front of you, it becomes clearer. In any case, I used only one zip tie, to keep the key barrel "aside" from the spring area, the rest pure brute force and lots of swear words, a lot.
Have fun!

It's using a screwdriver or similar that is the main trick. Then put the cable tie over both ends and tighten.

It really helps not having the spring under tension.

th.

All, thanks for replying.

So is it only the short side that we need to provide tension for, as it needs to wrap around that small part on the plastic hook?
The long side merely just goes into the handle?

So, after delaying the job, I thought I’d try another method.

I zip tied the lock so it was out of the way, and to avoid hurting my fingers, I just used a long nose plier to get the short end behind the little plastic part.

The only issue I have is I’m finding that the pin hole is not aligning at all. I can, however, manually align this myself if I adjust the plastic hook. I wonder if this is normal or that I’ve done something wrong.