A couple of days ago, the dash told me the front passenger window wasn't set. I ignored it then tried to set it. It wouldn't move. Hmm. No biggie, will get round to it.
Then I noticed that the passenger wing mirror didn't dip when reverse gear was selected and.. oh, it doesn't move at all. Then I realised that the door won't unlock.

So, all the electrics in that door are dead. What should I try first, oh gurus? I haven't done anything silly, like fill the door with water or fix something that wasn't broken or anything like that.

There are a couple of connectors in the door jamb area. That's where I'd start looking.

Hmm, would now be a good time to mention that the door pin is up but the door won't open? :(

No time would be a good time to say that!
Too much of a coincidence that it happened at the same time all electrics to that door failed for not opening to be a mechanical problem.
But- does the internal lock feel normal (not floppy or rigid)?
I assume you can't open from either inside or outside handle?
Not a fuse cos F9 and F22 are common to both sides.
Better wait for Marty to pass by with suggestions as to where you can apply power or an earth or whatever to get the door open for starters!

Erm... shit springs to mind...

If the door wont unlock from the sill lock button, then it sounds like it's superlocked - and then you are in for a world of fun, because the feed to the door latch to control all that is in the passenger door... between that and the outstation

If everything is dead, then it does point towards the connectors in the door jamb that OB has linked to, as everything stopping in the passenger door will most likely be either the power/ground or serial link to the outstation that has gone down.

I'm just trying to think if it is possible to reach in from the front if the glove box is removed, to get to the connectors from the inside... I have a bad feeling that those wires run up in between 2 parts of the bodyshell.

I would keep trying it and hope it's an intermittent problem, that has it come back to life for long enough to unlock the door, so you can get into it! but if not, then it is going to need some surgery to get the door open if you can't get to the connectors from the inside (even if it's to wiggle them and temporarily get communication back to get the door open)

uh oh :(

The handle on the inside is floppy, the outside one moves normally I think (it's stiff, but always has been). The door pin is up and won't move down.
So, this is what you get for ignoring Marty's advice on Superlocking Motors being more trouble than they are worth!!

I'm wracking my brain to think when the symptoms first appeared and if it was when we had some really heavy rain.. but I guess that might not even be relevant.

ooohhh, ok - so if the one on the inside is floppy it could be that the cable is taught and jamming the latch mechanism... I had it on mine when the wire pull was starting to fray and catching in the nylon tube.

First thing to then try would be remove the screw behind the door handle, and remove the plastic finisher from there. Then you'll be able to see the door handle and the end of the cable - if it looks like the cable isn't fully returning, then a bit of gentle persuasion with a pair of pliers on the end of the wire, pushing it back into the door might help it release and that could get it so that the door will then lock/unlock on the sill button again.

Usually if it's superlocked, the sill button will move up and down with pretty much no resistance.

I'll try and have a look on mine tomorrow to see if I can reach those door loom connections from the inside..

Marty you are awesome. I'll look at this asap but for today I am cooked after going upnst stupid o'clock for a bike ride!

https://www.strava.com/activities/925047701/shareable_images/map_based?hl=en-US&v=1491145493

Looking at the instructions here: http://www.rangerovers.net/repairdetails/doors/doorlocks.html
it seems I'm in the same boat, except I can't open the window either. Double buggered :(

Am I going to have to sacrifice a door card and just rip into the door?

The only thing that seems different to the super-locked situation is that the door pin is stuck in the up position and won't go down if you push it or use the fob.

Have you tried to remove the trim behind the interior handle to see if the door handle cable is catching?

I don't think it's superlocked now from what you are mentioning - I think something is jamming the latch which is stopping it from unlocking normally with the sill lock.

No, you won't have to sacrifice the door card - there is another way of getting the door open, but it can be a bit tricky - sometimes it's easier to take the rear door off and then access is better. Basically instead of trying to get through the top to damage the latch, you cut through the striker to release the whole door. It can be done with a hacksaw. It's a pity you aren't closer as I have a drill tool which I bought from another owner which is designed to drill through the stricker hasp.

I had a look at my RR today and the wiring for the door does go into a bit of a void space in the bodywork, so not easily accessible from inside on the LHS there is a rubber bung, which if it's removed, might give access to the connectors - but to get to this properly you would need to remove the blower motor. Which is possible with just the glove box out, as I did one today for someone, as they had a faulty one.

I wouldn't was to sacrifice the door card... there are other ways!

Thanks for looking, Marty. I'll have a go in daylight!

It does seem a bit of a coincidence that the entire door loom has failed at the same time as the door latch, I wonder if the lock motors have burnt out something upstream?

I seriously doubt it.. from memory the door latch motors are driven off a relay in the outstation (as opposed to a MOSFET/Transistor... been awhile since I've had the outstation apart) - which powers from the outstation feed.

If something further upstream had gone, then I would expect the whole drivers door to have stopped aswell, as the power feed to the outstation is shared with both front doors - likewise the fuse for the front windows is shared Left/Right - so if this had gone then both front windows would have stopped. Also I think both of those fuses would flag up a fault on the dash.

Unless the outstation itself has taken a dive (which is rare - they don't seem to fail) then my money is still on one of the wires in the connector to the door, or worst case in the door itself if it had been caught by the check strap etc as the door closes... but the connectors in the body are known for getting a bit green and horrible, so would be my first guess..

OK, ta. I've had a fiddle but haven't taken the door latch surround off yet.
Once last piece of information, if you try to superlock from the fob you get a "failed lock" type squeak from the alarm and the locks trigger again. Normal locking works fine.
I'm busy tomorrow night but I'll see if I can squeeze some more time in.
Cheers!

The blip from the alarm when it's trying to superlock is a mislock sound alright.

It is probably (at a guess - I haven't tried it to be sure on another vehicle) is it not arming the ultrasonic sensor inside, because it doesn't have communication with the LHF door, so can't verify that door is closed and locked. Again, probably normal and doing what it's supposed to do given the loss in communication to the LHF door.

Marty

I'm all for IT and geekery but computerised doors? I think Rover engineers were refugees from the Concorde program :)

We've got access to the lock loom that goes into the lock.
Could anyone tell us which wire takes power so we can try putting voltage on it to fire the lock?
Please? :)
cheers
Morat

IIRC purple and green are the lock motor and pink and green are the superlock motor on the door latch pigtail. If it's the wiring in the door itself that ought to be in RAVE.

Green is the common for the motors in the latch wiring, purple is the CDL motor.

In the door loom itself, the pink/black wire is motor common, and orange/black is CDL motor. Orange/pink is superlock motor.

thank you!
so, for a thicky, do you put 12V on Orange/Black and 0V on Pink Black to make it unlock, or lock? Or does it just lock/unlock depending on current state?

The polarity will make the difference as to whether it goes to lock or unlock.
I'd have to check and see which way round it is for unlock, as I built myself a tester ages ago to do it for me, so I just press a button to lock, button to unlock...

If I were to be a guessing man though, I would say that 12V on Pink/Black and Ground on Orange/Black would be unlock.

I just double checked my BECM SID as I just remembered it has the wiring in for the outstations, and it concurs...

If it's not, and it just tried to lock again, then reverse the polarity and it should unlock...