Now that I'm using the Range Rover as a daily driver I want to replace the radio with something containing bluetooth and music streaming capabilities.

I want to copy what Marty has done and get an Android powered double DIN unit to replace the factory sat nav screen. One without a disc drive so I cut the chassis down to fit the dashboard.

I have the (currently functional) DSP amp system.

To wire this up and make it work I believe I need to set the volume to max before disconnecting the standard head unit, fit an ISO to ISO harness on the back of the new radio, fit 4x attenuators in the ISO to ISO harness and connect this all to the original wiring loom.

Is this correct?

What would I need to make the steering wheel controls work? Just connect it all together and worry about it if they don't work?

Marty will no doubt give you the definitive reply but I'm not sure you can replace the head unit and retain the DSP amp as the current head unit only outputs two channels and data while the DSP amp deals with the fade and tone functions.

You might be better off looking at the Grom BT3 unit that OB has fitted (https://rangerovers.pub/topic/305-resurrection-vogue-se-a?page=11) or a Pure Highway (http://www.pure.com/car-audio/products/highway-600). They will both use your existing head unit and retain the DSP amp and steering wheel control functions but give you Bluetooth connectivity, hands free phone use and, in the case of the Pure, DAB radio as well. The main difference is that the Grom hides away while the Pure has the external display.

I was going to suggest the Grom (as long as you have a CD changer to substitute it for). I'm rather in love with mine at the moment :)
Only disadvantage with the Pure unit is that you'd have to use it in FM rebroadcaster mode as there's no Aux in function on the standard DSP kit. Advantage is you get DAB. Grom haven't yet ported their DAB dongle to the BT3.

Hmm, I might have to look in to Marty's DSP replacement project again then.

I'm keen to fit the Android system however possible as I'd like a more up to date nav system too.

You can now get a slimline version of the unit I bought and hacked apart (though I now have longer screen cables to make the other version fit better!) which should fit in the dash with no hacking apart, as it is probably about the same depth as the standard factory nav screen.

A few points/thoughts from me...
I'd look at ditching the DSP amp and putting in something like my replacement amp board - mostly because the DSP amp only takes in a front left/right feed, and does the rest... however, when you remove the factory head unit, you remove the way of controlling the DSP amp aswell, so if you adjust the fade etc on the new head unit, then it won't replicate properly on the DSP amp.

Time to ditch the DSP then.

On the plus side, I gather they go for a good price on eBay.

Do you have any DSP replacement boards in stock? I'll see if I can get some funds released from the Bank of Mum-To-Be :P

I almost have one in stock...

As in... I have some metal plates... I have some amps... I have connectors... I have 2 nearly complete wiring looms... I have the wire to complete the looms... but I haven't had time to put all the bits together to make a complete amp board yet...

I've been swamped in window switchpacks, HEVAC controllers, and this week another P38 sitting outside, which I've been doing a dash-out heater matrix/box removal/replacement. I got that all back together today, and have it ready for the owner to collect tomorrow... Then my list is back to switchpacks and HEVAC controllers, as I have some in the queue for people who are wanting them... but when I get a spare 10 minutes (or bored of cleaning HEVAC buttons/switchpack switches, I'll pull the amp boards out and try and get one of the wiring looms finished off, and make sure all the wires are labelled up.... how are you with a soldering iron? ;)

I'm looking at about £100 for the amp replacement - which includes the board, amps, wiring loom with bare ends labelled up ready to solder onto the vehicle loom (If I could find the male DSP amp connectors then I'd be laughing and able to make it plug and play!). It also comes with an extra 5m loom for the rear left/right signal feeds, with ISO terminals crimped on - so they just push into the factory ISO connector to give the 4 channels of audio.

If you want, and can wait a bit - I can probably make up an attenuator loom aswell for you, with ISO connectors on both ends to plug and play into the vehicle loom...

Thought of hiring an assistant/apprentice?

I wouldn't worry about finishing off the board for me, I'm not even sure I'll get the permission for it yet :P

Having a rough price is enough for me to work on at the moment. Cheers.

Just a thought....could you make the connectors with a cheap 3D printer?

Thought of it... yes.... financially viable... no..

Being as I don't charge for any of the advice I give (forums aren't so bad - it's the countless Facebook groups where I get private messages, or tags in posts - or phone calls on a Sunday...) means that is just time I'm using in the hope that should someone need a part that I can supply then they will consider coming to me, rather than a second hand 'tested' one from a breaker... or just because there's so much misinformation on FB groups that it's a case of wanting to try and actually post something that will help, rather than confuse - and keep a P38 running rather than scrapped for some stupid issue that people can't be bothered to read a diagram, or use a multimeter to diagnose...

So I don't make anything from that - and all the parts I DO sell I have to try and be competitive on price, otherwise people don't see the point in paying a bit more for something which has been checked by someone who actually cleans and tests things, rather than something that's a few quid cheaper from a breaker who has 'tested' it... (eg... it worked when it was on the vehicle, or appeared to... or it wasn't the reason the vehicle was scrapped, so it must have been OK..).. So a lot of the time the parts I sell make it to the point where the time I've put into them is 'paid' (after parts - new switches, lamps, screen connector, etc depending on what I'm rebuilding and eBay and Paypal fees) is often worked out to be as less than minimum wage, and a lot of the time wouldn't even cover my own mortgage payment in a month... so hiring an assistant/apprentice - whilst it would be lovely, ain't going to happen at the moment - as then I'd be paying them x amount, and it would make it that much less on the little I make at the moment!

Still... If I keep this busy, I might be able to (one day) make this into more of an income earner for myself, and then be able to tackle more of the jobs that will make a bit more, and can afford to then have an apprentice!

But rant/digression over....

I'll try and get a board done anyway - as when it's on the bench and I'm actually working on it, I can get a fair bit done if I'm doing 2 or 3 at the same time, and then it will be useful to have them on the shelf and ready to send for if people enquire!

Connectors/printer... I guess anything is possible - would need to design it in 3D to make sure it's identical and has all the pin locks etc in it too, and then source the pins. I might have a look again at the Tyco/Amp website and see if I can find them in their catalogue somewhere, as I'm sure there must be a part number - maybe can still find them somewhere!

Marty