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The only place for a coil spring is up Zebedee's arse
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Engine ECU sends engine speed, torque and TPS directly to the gearbox ECU and that in turn sends a timing retard signal back to the engine ECU to give smooth gearchanges. Then there are the other bits that need to know the engine speed (or that it is even running), a signal from the HEVAC tells the engine when the AC compressor clutch is engaged so the revs stay steady too, even the heated windscreen will only switch on if the engine is running. There's so much interaction between the different bits that fitting the engine is the easy bit, making everything else work is where you run into problems. That's why I say fitting a Motronic controlled L322 engine into a car that had a Motronic controlled 4.6 engine could be possible. Fitting a modern engine, such as a Lexus unit, into something very basic, like a Capri, is dead easy, you just need to use the engine ECU that came with the Lexus engine engine to deal with ignition and fuel injection. The car isn't fussed what is making it move as long as something is.

However, as OB says, as long as the original engine is looked after, then there's no need to think about changing it. I suspect most of the projects that have been started have been because someone has blown up their engine and have something laying around gathering dust so they decide to try to fit that rather than spend the money repairing the one that will work.

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Another reason for considering dropping in a bigger V8 or whatever is power/ torque. Venerable lump that the old Rover/ Buick V8 is, it's not easy to get a lot more power from it. 300 BHP is about the limit without going stupid full race spec and spend and even 300 BHP will cost big and give a very cammy motor with the power all in the wrong place for a theoretical off road 2 tonne daily driver vehicle.
Shoehorn in a big yank V8 and the skies the limit, except of course the transmission/ driveline will then break!
Supercharging has been done- Callaway in USA, turbocharging has been tried, I'm sure people out there have even dropped in a nitrous kit or two.
As an engineering challenge it would be interesting, but cost in the base lump and time and effort and you'll have spent the £10k that would buy a RR Sport with 390 PS where everything is designed to work together!

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Nah, go for one of these......

http://www.v8developments.co.uk/products/engines/long_engines/5.4_litre/dominator/index.shtml

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I'd love to. You're buying, right? :P

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If I paid £7.3k for that engine, I'd at least expect the old gasket goo to be scraped off the manifold faces and the cr@p to be removed from the exhaust ports :)
Perils of throwing bits together for a photo shoot I think .....
My thoughts still stand though. Time you've spent the cash on the rest of the bits to make it into a complete installed motor and labour costs you've done your £10k, will have to beef up driveline, the list will go on. Alternately, buy a RRS :)

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Orangebean wrote:

If I paid £7.3k for that engine, I'd at least expect the old gasket goo to be scraped off the manifold faces and the cr@p to be removed from the exhaust ports :)
Perils of throwing bits together for a photo shoot I think .....

As it's the same photo for all of the long engines, I think you're right. But the differences are going to be inside so they may as well use a stock photo.

Alternately, buy a RRS :)

But they're ugly........ (and have the spare dangling at a funny angle underneath making fitting an LPG tank difficult)

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Nah- the spare wheel can be fitted unobtrusively to the tailgate...
enter image description here

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Yeah - it took me a while to spot it....

Jesus, why????

Actually, what's the real point of 400bhp in a P38? It'll still be slower than a 135i or a Golf R32/Golf R. I think you'd be better off buying an old Bentley if you really want to have a high speed drawing room :)

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Yeah but a Bentley, an 135i or a Golf R32 can't tow a 3.5 tonne trailer. The ability to cruise up some of the hills on the way down to the south of France while towing a trailer without having to sit in the crawler lane with the trucks would be nice. Admittedly, mine's much better since the engine went to see Ray as the compression was down to 100-110 psi per pot before then so it was a bit on the gutless side,

It's not where you put the spare (assuming the boot on a RRS is big enough to bung the spare in there), it's the way the space for the spare is on the tilt. An LPG tank ideally needs to be sat flat.

Anyway Mark, how flat is the block face? I've never heard of a block warping, I think there's enough stiffening webs cast into it to keep it flat. I've always just given it a light going over with some very fine wet and dry on a sanding block. Even less critical with the top hats as they do the work, not the block face.

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Gilbertd wrote:

Anyway Mark, how flat is the block face? I've never heard of a block warping, I think there's enough stiffening webs cast into it to keep it flat. I've always just given it a light going over with some very fine wet and dry on a sanding block. Even less critical with the top hats as they do the work, not the block face.


It's within 0.0015 inches all over. I've sent all of the metrics (imperials?) to Turners for a second opinion in terms of their manufacturing tolerances.
My real concern wasn't warping, but that the burning from the failed gasket would have eroded material in that area. It looks OK after a clean.
Ordered a new QH water pump yesterday- one of those "while I'm down there" things. Have a new Bearmach thermostat (tested) ready to go on, a few hoses and will pop the rad off and back flush it.

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I feel sorry for you, your bargain has become a bloody nightmare. Let's hope this is the last of it and you can finally enjoy driving it.
I'm sure 99% of people would of given up at this stage after all the work you've done.
When my head did the same thing, I still only used a scourer to clean the block, the burns seem to just disappear with a firm rub, have you sorted out heads yet ? I've got 6 in my stock, but not sure if any later heads till I check numbers,know ( I know I have on an engine) if you need give me a holla..

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Cheers Chris!
It's not that bad though. I would have expected to have to sort some of the usual P38 afflictions, just not all of them embodied in one car. Ignoring all the cosmetic and routine maintenance stuff, I've only had to do heater matrix upgrade, LPG rebuild, diff replacement, cylinder head, BECM ECU Lockset and one door latch. I haven't even had to touch the EAS (yet!).
Thanks for the offer on the heads. I'm going for the V8 Devs fully rebuilt ones mainly because by the time I'd stripped used ones, put in new valves and guides, had seats recut and heads skimmed (assuming they had enough meat to take a skim without having to bugger around with chamber volumes) and factoring in the cost of my time (all the time I'm spending on this work is taken out of my "earning money" time), coupled with the fact that they just turn up ready to fit, makes the best economic sense to me.
I've used a fine nylon scourer (around a 2400 I think) to clean all the mating surfaces and lots of Loctite 7200 to dissolve carbon deposits. End result looks good.
Like you say though, I'm looking forward to actually driving it. It'd be nice to have the time to get the new workshop build finished as well!

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Now this is where the current job has the potential to get silly. Idly sitting planning my day- the thought creeps in...
" Really should drop the sump to clean all the crap out. When the sump's off and heads off it would be really easy to pop the pistons out and re-ring them, and of course with conrods out a new set of big end shells would be great preventative maintenance. If I did big ends, may as well do mains".
I'm my own worst enemy sometimes!

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FFS, OB, you like making work for yourself!!!

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Orangebean wrote:

the fact that they just turn up ready to fit, makes the best economic sense to me.

Gilbertd wrote:

Nah, go for one of these......

http://www.v8developments.co.uk/products/engines/long_engines/5.4_litre/dominator/index.shtml

:P

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Bolleaux
Just found that the high-pressure power steering hose from pump to box is about to die :(
More spends to Island for a Dunlop one I guess. The Britpart or LR ones are too horrible to contemplate for different reasons...

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Orangebean wrote:

Now this is where the current job has the potential to get silly. Idly sitting planning my day- the thought creeps in...
" Really should drop the sump to clean all the crap out. When the sump's off and heads off it would be really easy to pop the pistons out and re-ring them, and of course with conrods out a new set of big end shells would be great preventative maintenance. If I did big ends, may as well do mains".
I'm my own worst enemy sometimes!

Might as well take the block out at that stage too OB, re-hone the bores, gearbox rebuild etc.. lol

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Lpgc wrote:

Might as well take the block out at that stage too OB, re-hone the bores, gearbox rebuild etc.. lol


Damn good idea Simon
If I really had a rush of blood to the head I could hone bores without taking block out. :-)
Gearbox, TC, flexplate etc were factory exchange 50k ago but no point in _not _replacing them.
I'm just going to keep on taking bits off until I have a huge pile of parts- then sell 'em.
I'll start with this lot...
enter image description here

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Orangebean wrote:

Bolleaux
Just found that the high-pressure power steering hose from pump to box is about to die :(
More spends to Island for a Dunlop one I guess. The Britpart or LR ones are too horrible to contemplate for different reasons...

Got one of them if you want,, jeez where do I get all these bits and bobs

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Mark are you still talking the blue one (that has to go)?
I'm never in favor of selling a car with lots of issues and keep my mouth shut, but nobody expects you to sell a new car.
All the work has to pay off somehow isn't it?
Tony.