rangerovers.pub
The only place for a coil spring is up Zebedee's arse
Member
avatar
Joined:
Posts: 1228

Could someone confirm the below for me? My top hose persists in leaking, and now that my thermostat is stuck open I'm going to change it for some siliconey bits.

On my Thor, the outlet pipe appears to be 32mm OD. The inlet to the radiator appears to be 36mm OD however. Does anyone have a Thor radiator sitting about that they could measure properly for me? I don't want to take the hose off just yet.

With a couple of corners and a reducer I can make that work if it is the case. I can get 32mm and 35mm ID silicone hoses, but before ordering I figured I'd check!

Member
Joined:
Posts: 647

This is the typical Thor lay-out, with the T piece for the bypasshose to thermostat top port.
Yours might be different I think as you have an 'upgraded Gems'?
Tony
enter image description here

Member
Joined:
Posts: 2312

I'll second that Tony!
Measured the one I'd just replaced before I scrolled down and saw the pic with the sizes. Spot on...
:)

Member
Joined:
Posts: 647

Sloth, as for your fanrebuild, is the elbow suitable to carry a thermostat? A sort of clip-on thermostat we have on the HEVAC heaterpipe?
You also can weld a nut on it so you can properly screw it in but space is limited over there.
On the other hand you'll be fooled when engine is still cold and uses the bypass back to engine, the thermostat will think your engine is at oprating temp.
So it should be mounted between "T" piece and rad. Difficult.
Just an idea, Tony.
enter image description here

Member
avatar
Joined:
Posts: 1228

Perfect - thanks guys :) I do indeed have a normal Thor top hose arrangement - its the rest of the cooling system below that that was slightly different from a 'normal' Thor, and is now totally different since changing the heater matrix and replacing the plumbing.

I have ordered some 35mm silicone pipe to replace the short bit, as that is where I seem to keep having leak issues. I wonder if the pipe has split internally slightly somehow. Gone with a couple of sizes of Mikalor constant tension clamps too - hopefully it'll all turn up before the weekend.

Ferryman... that's a fine idea about the thermostat probe!

The set point of the fan thermostat should be above the coolant stat's opening temperature anyway, so it should only turn the fan on when coolant is properly up to temperature and verging slightly over. I'll have to see how I could attach the probe.

Member
avatar
Joined:
Posts: 1228

Bumping my own old thread for another similar request...

Any chance someone could measure the OD of the water pump hose? At the pump end - where its biggest. I can't get at it on the engine with my calipers. I will stick a new hose on so worst case is I'll order the hose and measure that when it turns up some time.

F*$king jubilee clips continue to piss me off and refuse to stop leaking. Sometimes I get a few days, sometimes a few weeks... I'm going to have to empty the coolant for the 439th time and put more CT clamps on - I just need to know what size to order :)

Member
Joined:
Posts: 2312

I can't get at mine for the same reason. I do have a waterpump on the shelf so can measure the stub if that'd help?
I'll be over the workshop around lunchtime.

Member
avatar
Joined:
Posts: 1228

That's okay, thanks for the offer - I'll order a pipe at some point (when it next leaves a puddle, probably) and measure it up. When I know what CT clamp size to order I'll post it up.

I've heard people say bad things about CT clamps... I really don't know why. If you have the proper tools to remove/fit them, they're simple to use and they do not leak!

Member
Joined:
Posts: 647

Not owning one won't say there are'nt laying around some bits and bobs.
If this is the right combo the clamp has stamped 50 on it, sounds reasonable because with the hose attached the OD is 48 mm.
And you need the cable pliers of course (Midlock). Very useful tool to reach those knuckle scratching places.

enter image description here

Member
avatar
Joined:
Posts: 1228

That's the clamp! And yeah - that's the same tool I have. Makes them so easy to use especially in awkward places.

50mm sounds about right! Thanks!

Member
Joined:
Posts: 784

Good tool. Plenty of places you don't stand much of a chance getting a screwdriver in to tighten a jubilee. Anyone fancies one, they're here

Member
avatar
Joined:
Posts: 1228

Best thing to use on jubilee clips if you are stuck using them is sockets - less chance of a) slipping off and stabbing something or b) chewing the head up. And you can use extensions to get at them, like in the case of the bottom hose to water pump.

Usually a 7mm, or 6mm on the odd one that clamps the air inlet pipe to the throttle body.

Member
Joined:
Posts: 2312

^^^ +1 to what Sloth says.
If you use sockets you can also get a better feel for the torque you're applying to the clip screw. Jubilee actually publish recommended torque settings for all of their clip sizes:
http://www.jubileeclips.co.uk/products/original/

Member
Joined:
Posts: 2441

blueplasticsoulman wrote:

Good tool. Plenty of places you don't stand much of a chance getting a screwdriver in to tighten a jubilee. Anyone fancies one, they're here

Ordered! Ta. πŸ˜€

Member
Joined:
Posts: 1327

It’s so good, moray ordered 2, πŸ‘

Member
avatar
Joined:
Posts: 8080

I always used to struggle with a pair of pliers, or even Mole grips on the bigger sizes, when removing and refitting CT clips. Then I had to do a job on Dina's Merc and there was one about 4 inch diameter with no way of getting pliers in there to it. Went out and bought the proper tool (from Machine Mart I think) the same as the one linked to and have used it hundreds of times since as it makes things so much easier.