Pondering if there's anything I can do to my engine bay whilst the lump is out of it.
Is it worth doing anything with the sound-proofing/heat resistant foil that's looking a little moth-eaten?
Think I will go the route of wrapping my headers rather than using the metal shields (one is missing anyway) - has anyone tried doing this?
A couple of people have but found that the wrapping traps moisture so they rust. I ran mine with no heatshield on the drivers side for about 3 years and never overheated anything and a few others run without them with no ill effects too.
While you've got a big hole it might be worth doing stuff you can't ordinarily get to, cruise control pipe to the brake pedal is one thing that immediately springs to mind. New sound deadening and giving it a good clean out is worth doing too.
Already had a go at the cruise control, but replacing the pipe didn't fix it; with the coolant issue at that point I didn't get any further in diagnosing why.
Flex plate.. should I go genuine LR, or for something beefier like this:
Ashcroft P38 v8 heavy duty flexplate
I heatwrapped my driver's side manifold but it has developed a blow when cold. It had a tiny crack in one of the flexi bits which has probably opened up.
It's like particularly evil loft insulation when you handle it.
I'd say go for the original LR flexplate. Spending over twice as much on something that you don't really need unless you are going for a tuned engine doesn't seem worth the money really.
Its getting the torque camshaft, but I guess that won't take me wildly out of the realms of a genuine flex plate?
Looking at rave, replacing it sounds like a bolt off bolt on job with the engine being out?
Refitting the engine to the gearbox, rave mentions making alignment marks before removing, how critical is that? Because, obviously, I didn't. :)
If you are replacing the flex plate you can't make marks (or you can but they aren't going to do you a lot of good) as the marked flexplate won't be there any more. It's no different to changing a propshaft, they tell you to mark that but if you are fitting a new one, then you can't put it back the same way as it came off.
Gilbertd wrote:
I'd say go for the original LR flexplate. Spending over twice as much on something that you don't really need unless you are going for a tuned engine doesn't seem worth the money really.
An alternative perspective (mine!) would be to fit the uprated flex plate as the OEM flex plate is one of the more common failure items on the P38 and it'd certainly be worth the extra £40 as insurance against having to spend time splitting the engine and box to change it out again. Bit like a top-hatted engine really- an improvement on original.
Ok so the consensus (all of two) seems to be to replace the flex plate regardless of the condition of the current one (except Ray at V8 reckons it looks absolutely fine so not to bother)..
50/50 on whether to go genuine or heavy duty. Anyone else want to add their opinion?
If in doubt, upgrade! :)
If I have an engine out I do two things:
flexplate
endseal
Both genuine LR, it's not the cost.
Ashcroft heavy duty plate ordered and on its way to V8 developments for balancing.
Better get all my parts ordered ready for reassembly.
Anyone got a picture showing where the alignment dowels for the engine/bellhousing go?
One above startermotor and one at the crank pos.sensor
Thanks Ferryman, hopefully the dowels are with the block, because they aren't in the gearbox. :|
The dowels belong in the block so no worry...
Just hoping they are both there, otherwise I have to try and figure out the part number and find a supplier.
It's probably the same dowel the RV8 has used for ever!
602141a
https://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-602141A
http://www.paddockspares.com/602141-dowel-flywheel-hsg.html
Cheers, ordered a couple, just in case.
Marty already knows, but I guess I'm eating my hat re the Audi heater matrix mod. After changing the o rings a couple of times and the joint still weeping, I decided that, given the age of the matrix and the fact that it's probably full of junk even after trying to flush it both ways, I'd replace it, and went the Audi route.
It is possible to do this mod without cutting or otherwise modifying the HEVAC unit itself, by splitting it in half, and getting the new heater core in place through the entry point. The tight bit is the plastic divider that sits sandwiched between the two halves of the unit, but with it in pieces, you can get the end of the heater core past that.
The most difficult part of the job is properly sealing the edges of the heater core, especially around the hole in the edge of the HEVAC unit. The long edges of the hole are easy enough, but the short edges are extremely tight in comparison and it was difficult to get the neoprene in the gap without rolling itself up.
Anyhow now it's in, it's not going anywhere. I've put two hoses through the bulkhead ready for connection back to the coolant circuit.
mace wrote:
Marty already knows, but I guess I'm eating my hat re the Audi heater matrix mod. After changing the o rings a couple of times and the joint still weeping, I decided that, given the age of the matrix and the fact that it's probably full of junk even after trying to flush it both ways, I'd replace it, and went the Audi route.
It is possible to do this mod without cutting or otherwise modifying the HEVAC unit itself, by splitting it in half, and getting the new heater core in place through the entry point. The tight bit is the plastic divider that sits sandwiched between the two halves of the unit, but with it in pieces, you can get the end of the heater core past that.
The most difficult part of the job is properly sealing the edges of the heater core, especially around the hole in the edge of the HEVAC unit. The long edges of the hole are easy enough, but the short edges are extremely tight in comparison and it was difficult to get the neoprene in the gap without rolling itself up.
Anyhow now it's in, it's not going anywhere. I've put two hoses through the bulkhead ready for connection back to the coolant circuit.
There isn't a lot in it, and that adjustment to the heater box can be done in a couple of minutes with a sharp chisel, and not needing to split the box (though splitting it can be a good idea to check/free up flaps, regrease everything etc)...
I use some really thick foam now (as opposed to the thin stuff in the box) which gives a pretty good seal... I was put onto it by a member on another forum - and I'll link to it here for anyone else who wants some... it also does a pretty good job of stuffing the mammoth gap on the bottom of the rear face ducts!
Fingers crossed you don't get any drips now.. I used jubilee style clamps on mine and had to go back in once to nip them up - nowdays I use the Mikalor style constant tension screw clamps, which seem better again..