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The only place for a coil spring is up Zebedee's arse
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Watching with interest.

Are you doing the entire job outside or do you have access to a garage/paintbooth?

Also what does the HLR badge signify?

H

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I used the plastic trick when we did my mates MX-5 but we didn’t use 2K paint on his as it was just a track day car

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My W plate 4.0 SE has the pinstripe and HLR on the side. But not on the rear. Just 4.0 SE.

Clive

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HLR might be some decal added by the dealer that sold it new.

Heathrow Land Rover, Hastings Land Rover...some other city beginning H?

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HLR landrover shifnal

If you do a Google search for the above, a defunct link comes up regards 'Hollandrover' or 'HLR' for short.Google provides some historic (brief) detail but if you click on the link, it fails.

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Brave man! I'm impressed and wish you luck in the battle against the tin worm.

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Not that much tin worm, lots of measles but not much tin worm..... Not sure if they will come off with the sidesteps still in place but the sill trims pop off easily enough. If you take the rear mudflaps off the coloured infill on the rear bumper ends come out so can be sprayed separately.

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Now I'm scared to look at mine too closely - working on the 'What the eye doesn't see'.......gambit

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You obviously have a good eye Redraptor: I tend to ignore all my bodywork imperfections.... Having indulged in some 2K spraying myself recently - using the hot weather outside as my 'booth' (!) I will be watching your progress closely. My own work looks great (as long as you don't get within 6 feet !)

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Can't wait to see what she looks like when done!

When you're finished you can repaint mine he he he lol

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Anyone know how to remove the black roof rail trims? Had a little play, looks like clips but I don’t want to force it if is bolted through the roof.

Plus extra holes in the roof seems exactly the kind of think Landrover would do........

Headlining out job? No worry’s if it is as my headlining is very baggy anyway so it will motivate me to get that sorted over summer as well!

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Must be clips as there's no bolts coming through the roof. Whether you'll get them out without breaking anything is another matter though, mine were just masked off (but my roof is in a bit of a state anyway with the filled holes where plod had the radio aerials and light bar mountings).

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The roof rail covers do just pull out - they have spring clips holding them in.

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Started the strip this afternoon.

So no clips broken by me.......so far! The mudguards has to be ripped off in the then then the screws drilled out! 20 years of being belted directly with mud and water was not good!

But the main thing is there is no rust from the rear doors forward. I’m going to get rid of the door steps I think as they are rusted through and I wouldn’t like to stand on them again now I’ve had a good look at them! Going to have to angle grind the rear bolts off though as nothing is shifting them and the rust has eaten them in to nothing!

I’m not a fan of foot steps anyway so I might just take the brackets off as well then I can treat the whole chassis with POR-15 when I’ve finished the re-spray.

Problem is now, after about 2 months of pure sunshine it’s started raining this evening! Typical! So I think I’ll just continue stripping this weekend and flat back the front wings, lower part of the front grille and the small bits below the headlights.

If I can eat the rear mudflaps off I will remove the little painted panels on the rear bumper to flat them off too

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Cheers for the advice on the roof rails, they came straight off.... even had 20 years of dust and bugs under them!

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Thinking about these steel rivnuts that are causing all the bi-metallic corrosion with the alluminium panels. Seems they are only supporting the headlight guards. I was thinking of removing the rivnuts and then sorting the panels out, and when it comes to re fitting them, just epoxy glue them on.

Realistically the covers are then bolted to the brackets so I would still be able to remove the covers if needed.

Just figured it would be the safest way to keep the corrosion from coming back

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Do they not do aluminium rivets ?
I’ve got to ask, are you putting those plastic arch covers back

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Yeh they do, it just means I’d have to buy a rivnut kit and so on and so forth. Just I’ve got tons of epoxy is all lol.

Busy today! Stripped the rear end down and had to clean the carport as 20 years of dust, poo and rust was piling up. I honestly recon I’ve shifted about 5kg of trapped dirt so far!

Rear bumper nuts both sheared off..... still got the bumper off to reveal this....... not bad seems this is all the rust I’ve found on the car so far (other than a few untreated stone chips)
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Anyone know if you can buy/order just the bumper attachment plate bit? Seems it might be easier to replace than drill out as all 8 bolts move. If not it’s no worry I’ll just take them to work and drill them out at work.

All 4 mud flaps disintegrated on me during removal so they will all need replacing but I figured parts like this into the budjet anyway.

Also started prepping the cars panels that can be removed easily. God it’s taking for ever to get the bloody glue off from the rubber arches!
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There was so much corrosion on the wing under the paint. Why on earth did landrover use steel brackets and clips on aluminium parts!! Just fighting with bi-metallic corrosion.

Anyway with it all removed then removed the paint around the patches to approximately 2cm I applied aluminium chromate to the bare metal to treat it, then applied filler/knifing putty, to fill in the holes and divots where the corrosion once was! Just leaving it to harden over night as the weather is closing in here!

Last job was I cleaned the first wheel arch up, de-greased it and then coated it in a layer of underbody seal, as there was no corrosion under here it seems a waste to paint here what can’t be seen when the liner is in anyway! So I’ve done one coat and I’ll stick another on tommorow, then start on the other side.

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Just a test here to see what’s better. To stipple or to brush. Not that it matters as I can’t see it anyway!
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I’m sure Hamerite splits people as to its quality and longevity, but as I said there was no corrosion under here at all, and this stuff is cheap, on the shelf and easy to apply. I see it as a supplement to the paint that has already lasted 20 years.

No10chris, which ones? The rubber arch covers or the ones on the end of the foot steps? The arch covers will be as I like the contrast they give, not trying to make it too far from standard either. Basically everything that I took off will go back on. Plus any bits that are missing that I can source.

Aka it’s missing the plastic splash guard behind the wing/wheel arch liner on the drivers side.

The foot steps will not be going back on as they are in a right state! Completely rotten, just leaving them on at the moment as there useful to get to the roof.