Probably had it running 20mins but turned it off for fear of overheating the pump. The accesslight is steady on the dash but it doesn't want to seem to move on from there. STD ride hight is blinking.
I assume with the pump running and the door open the air from the pump should go straight to the tank or if the diaphragm is faulty out of the exhaust.
Right an update. Managed to fill the springs and tank by cobbling my mains compressor to the car. Left the car compressor attached and running and it switched off when up to pressure. So looking at things I think my compressor needs another over haul kit as it's not putting out much pressure.
Rob
Im with Richard, It can take a while, even with a rebuilt compressor, you could try sticking a jack under the tow ball and give it a lift, sometimes that shock gets it going, also double check connectors in eas box.
Remember tail gate and doors must be closed, sometimes you have to push the button again.
Note to self, type faster, lol
With the rebuild kits, get from someone like landiair, who deals with eas, otherwise you don’t know what your getting
I have to admit the rebuild kit I used was from the same people who do the red valve block seal kits so don't know if that's why it didn't last
Just pulled the pump apart and can't see to much wrong with it. Nrv reeds in the pump were a bit gummed up so have cleaned them. I will order another piston repair kit and see what happens. When the pump was running off the car I could hold my finger over the outlet and stop any air coming out. What I have read on here and the other forum is its not suppposed to be like that.
Robbo1 wrote:
When the pump was running off the car I could hold my finger over the outlet and stop any air coming out.
It's knackered. There's no way you should be able to stop 150+ psi with your finger. The pump would run forever as it needs to be up to roughly 140 psi before the pressure switch shuts it off.
Rebuild kit ordered. Hopefully this will sort things out. Thanks for all the help and advise. I will let you know how it goes later in the week.
Rob.
Rebuilt pump which is now working fine. Still can't seem to get the tank to fill. It's as if something isn't letting the air from the pump go to where it's needed. I managed to fill the system from my workshop compressor on Sunday. Bags on all corners filled car came up to the right hight. Been sitting level since then so no leaks in that part of the system. Would this have something to do with the diaphragm. I replaced it with a new one in the kit and made sure it was the right way round I.e metal to the spring. I also made sure the spring was in the right position. Any advice gratefully received.
Rob.
Forgot to add nothing leaking from the exhaust valve with pump running.
I have been doing a lot of studying of air flow diagrams thanks to paulP38A.com and think it can only be either of these.
Diaphragm solenoid seals faulty so most of the air the pump is producing is disappearing out of the 4mm pipe. I haven't checked this yet. The non return valve has been put back the wrong way round so no air can get to the tank. I am pretty sure I put them back right but you never know. The only other thing I can think of is the pipe to the tank or the tank itself has a really bad leak so as fast as the pump is trying to fill it its emptying. Again I don't think this is the case as when I disconnected the air tank pipe at the valve block before rebuilding it there was considerable pressure released.
Rob.
Out of those three my bet would be the Solenoid seals. I'm not sure you can put the NRVs back in without noticing.
Ho bloody ray. It's sorted. Valve block is fine. It was the bloody dryer oring the big one that seals the two halves. Air was pissing out of there so the system would never come up to pressure. Well I have certainly learnt a lot about the EAS and how it works so no bad thing there.
Rob.
\o/ Hooray!!
Been out with the car today and twice it came up with EAS fault. Car still drove fine and didn't lower to the bump stops. After stopping and restarting the fault cleared and EAS goes back to normal. I really need to get a fault reader to find out the cause. I will see how it goes perhaps it might settle down as I have just pulled the valve block apart.
Rob.
I get out to Norfolk for work at least a couple of times a month so could bung the Nanocom in the works motor and read the faults for you if you need. Otherwise, buy (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fits-RANGE-ROVER-P38a-EAS-AIR-SUSPENSION-FAULT-CODE-RESET-DIAGNOSTIC/112207172412) or make (http://www.rswsolutions.com/index.php/p38a-eas-unlock-videos) a cable and use the free EASUnlock software (http://www.rswsolutions.com/index.php/range-rover-classic/easunlock-software) and you can do it for yourself.
Cheers Gilbert.
I will get the EAS unlock software. I will get a nanocom when finances allow or perhaps Father Christmas willl bring me one. I have dropped a few hints. Weird thing about the faults I'm getting is they all occurred at low speed. Twice when in a traffic queue and yesterday while backing into the garage. So all faults at 5mph or less.
Rob.
Morning all.
I have received the obd cable and USB converter to use with the EAS unlock software form a seller on eBay but I'm not sure if it's right. I plug the obd cable in and ok however when connecting the USB adaptor to the obd cable I get the 35 max on the dash. This is all with no computer connected and the ignition on. As soon as I take the USB of the obd cable 35 max disappears from the dash. Can somebody please let me know if this is normal and how things should be.
Rob.
I don't use a USB adapter as I use an old Panasonic Toughbook with a serial port, but you do get a beep and the 35mph max as soon as it's connected (get the same when connecting to the EAS with Nanocom too). I would assume that the USB adapter being connected to the cable is putting a condition out that the EAS system sees and knows it's being interrogated.
Cheers thanks for that. I will try to get it connected later and see what it finds. I have been reading about the USB adapters and they seem as though they can cause problems. The seller I purchased from states that the cables are tested and 100% working. I will let you know later if it all works out.
Rob.