Hi all.
A bit of advise please. My car is perfectly level doesn't loose hight when parked up for the week. All in all the EAS works fine at all heights. However the compressor seems to operate a lot. Example, car sitting in garage on level ground. Start car goes up to normal hight with the compressor running. Compressor switches off valves click as if the car is levelling then the compressor cuts in again. This cycle repeats. Not sure how often the compressor is supposed to run. Compressor has been overhauled. Any advise much appreciated.
Rob.

It sounds like you may have a leak from the tank. Although the air springs and valve block aren't leaking so it doesn't drop, it may be losing pressure in the tank. Easy way to check is to start it after it has been standing overnight, drop the suspension down to Access height and then send it back up to High. If it goes straight up, the tank has plenty of pressure in it but I suspect it will need to refill the tank before it goes back up. That suggests a leak at the tank itself, the dryer or the pressure switch on the bottom of the valve block.

Cheers Gilbert.
You are right in that it doesn't go straight up if I lower to access. It gradually goes up. I will check what you have suggested. Many thanks.
Rob.

Another quoestion. Just trying to get my head round how things work. Single line from valve block to air dryer then to air tank. So if the system is working correctly and there is pressure in the tank this line should be under pressure as well. The reason I Ask is a few months ago I removed the dryer to service and when disconnecting the air line there was no pressure there.
Rob.

The diaphragm valve lets air either pass from the compressor to the tank through the dryer, or from the valve gallery through the dryer to the exhaust. That's done so exhausting air dries out the crystals in it. There shouldn't be (much) pressure at the dryer if the tank NRV is healthy. There will be a wee bit because the exhaust valve will shut when the pressure in the dryer drops enough.

Right been playing around and this is what's happening. I took the dryer off and started the car. With the compressor running I put my finger over the bottom pipe and the air flow didn't seem very powerful. I then took the silencer off the block and air is escaping from there . If I put my finger over the silencer hole I can't then keep my finger over the compressor pipe into the bottom of the dryer as the pressure is to much. I hope this all makes sense. So where do we go from here. I assume there is nothing or very little going to the air tank and the compressor is doing all the work hence why it runs a lot. Thoughts please.
Rob.

If you're getting air blowing out of the exhaust port when the compressor is running, then either the diaphragm solenoid isn't working as it should (though they seem pretty reliable), or the diaphragm itself is faulty. It's a fairly common thing for it to fail, usually the rubber perishing.

Can get new ones and replace it fairly easily

Yup, diaphragm leaking. You are not the first, see https://rangerovers.pub/topic/931-ooo-my-diaphragm and you won't really know about it until you try to raise the car and it doesn't. You can buy the valve block overhaul kit with or without the diaphragm or just the diaphragm on it's own so make sure you get the right one. Probably worth doing a full overhaul on the valve block, simple enough if you take your time. Make sure you have the Land Rover approved pencil sharpener though as the pipes will have grooves where the O rings sat and will need a millimetre or so trimming off the ends to make sure they seal properly.

Thanks all. I have been reading up on doing a valve block overhaul http://hardrange.com/downloads/manual/PaulP38A-EAS-VB-Renew.pdf doesn't seem to hard. Can you recommend a good o ring kit to buy.
Rob.

This one https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Range-Rover-P38-EAS-Valve-Block-o-ring-set-diaphragm-STC-1803/162092286791 this one https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/P38a-EAS-COMPRESSOR-PUMP-SEAL-VALVE-BLOCK-SEALS-DIAPHRAGM-INLET-FILTER/222186758097 (includes compressor seal) or this one https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RANGE-ROVER-P38-EAS-AIR-SUSPENSION-VALVE-BLOCK-O-RING-DIAPHRAGM-REPAIR-FIX-KIT/321451232414

Don't get one with the orange O rings that some suppliers sell, the O rings are too thin so don't seal well.

Thanks Gilbert. Another question. As I don't have a Nanocom etc whats the best way to depressurise the system.
Thanks again
Rob.

Drop it down to Access height, push the collets in with a blunt screwdriver and pull the pipes out. Make sure there are no cats, dogs, children, etc under the car first though as it will drop a corner at a time as you pull each of the 4 going to the air springs out. The one nearest the front of the car (with a purple sleeve on it) is the outlet from the tank to the valve block so that one will probably have quite a bit of air behind it. The two larger 8mm ones, are the in and out to the dryer so won't have a lot, if any, pressure there and the small 4mm one at the rear is just a vent so won't have any pressure in it at all. As well as the Land Rover approved pencil sharpener, you'll also need the land Rover approved crochet hook for pulling the old O rings out (although I couldn't find one anywhere and ended up using a piece of 1.5mm copper wire with a hook bent in the end).

Before you start make up an O ring sorting stand to keep the new ones in order before you fit them and the old ones in order as you take them out. I bang some thin nails into an off cut of melamine faced chipboard. Plain wood or ordinary chipboard will do fine but needs smooth plastic face, half a freezer bag for example, to nurse the new O rings aren't damaged.

Lots of O rings in the packet and its easy to miss one if you aren't organised. I know I guy who did and wondered why it didn't work properly! Having done a fair bit of similar keep it it order stuff in the past I thought I could just lay them out on the bench. Nope! Pride'n falls'n all that.

Collets push in easier with a U shape tool pushing on two sides than with a screwdriver operating on one. I copied my memory of the fancy one that Newport used to put in the box with air spring leg optical tables as those use the same collet fittings.

Clive

Thanks for all you help boys much appreciated. I will let you know how the rebuild goes when I do it.
Cheers Rob.

I managed it, you should be OK! Just take your time and be methodical.

I can vouch that the orange ones are pants, they are way too thin and too soft. Black only.

I finally got my EAS working again today. Result! Swiftly followed by a reek of diesel in the car while out on my test drive. The lovely ethanol has destroyed another set of leakoff pipes! Luckily I'm learning what to keep in stock hahahaha

Hi all. Just about finished the vale block re seal. All good so far found a dodgy diaphragm so that's where the problem was. Just need to know weather to use any lube on the new diaphragm. I have used o ring grease on all the new o rings apart from the ones on the non return valves.
Cheers.

Nooooooo, don’t put anything on the diaphragm
Lube on it would make it sticky

Bugger. Ffinished the block rebuild put it back on the car started up all ok no warnings. Can't get the car to do anything. Pump is running. The pump is good as I rebuilt it last week. Tested for leaks on the block nothing showing. Nothing now coming from the exhaust valve with the pump running. Don't really know where to go from here. Any help much appreciated.
Rob.

How long has the pump been running for? Although they say 8-10 minutes, I've found that after you've had the valve block off so there is no pressure in any of the system, even with a rebuilt pump you can be looking at twice that.