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You could in theory, but you can't mix and match remotes from different locksets.

It also screws up the lockset that belongs to the vehicle - meaning if you did acquire a new remote fob from LR for your vehicle, it then wouldn't work (in the same way that if someone changed the BECM and lockset etc, you'd be out of luck too). Our red P38 is an example of this - mostly my own doing. The pair of physical key blades and various locks/barrel are from my first old P38, and the pair of remote fobs are from another scrapped P38, as the original remote fob we got with the vehicle had failed. So its a total mess and if we ever sold it and the new owner wanted another key, they're going to have real issues.

Won't have any battery drain issues though with its prototype fob filter still in place and working ;)

Last I heard however, LR were still supplying new remote keys for UK vehicles, but possibly not for NAS vehicles now.

On top of that, the BECM needs unlocking to make this possible - Marty has the kit to do that. He kindly unlocked both my test bench and red P38's BECMs so that we could develop the receiver fob filters with various remote fobs. Coincidentally my P38's BECM is also unlocked, but it was also a vehicle owned by LR for the first two years of its life - so I have no idea of the history or reasoning behind it. Handy though!

New aftermarket keys are available from a couple of sources, and we're in the process of developing our own remote fob too. We have prototypes that work and have proven the concept just fine - but with my house refurbishment, actual work and generally life in the way, progress hasn't moved on much further yet.

Might well be by the summer we have them available - with a couple of options too for the type of key/remote. Cheap too. The complicated bit will be how we get your fob code of your existing key if you have a working one. If you have no working remote, we'd need to get hands-on with the BECM etc.

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LR do supply them - I got a quote for £320 IIRC. I could hear the "hah, fuck you - peasant" attitude oozing out of the guy and down the phone.

I have one fully functioning fob and the prospect of losing or damaging is just a little scary. Sadly I never seem to have a spare £300 lying around....
If you are going to be able to create a functioning 3rd party fob that would clone the existing key I'd definitely be in the market.
If you could code it as a different numbered fob for the memory seats that would be even more amazing!

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Christ that has gone up a bit.

Yes, we'll be able to create keys 1/2/3/4 as needed :) Only 1 and 2 have the memory functions as per the originals as that is a limitation of the BECM.

In the meantime, do they still do the valet keys? Just a bare key with no remote. That would at least keep you going if you did lose the remote key.

I have the Silca part numbers of compatible blanks if not somewhere. Could get a decent independant key cutter to copy your key's blade onto one of those.

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Sloth wrote:

I have the Silca part numbers of compatible blanks if not somewhere. Could get a decent independant key cutter to copy your key's blade onto one of those.

I think that sounds like a wise move actually, i think i will get a basic non-remote key made to keep in the drawer should the worst happen and the remote get lost.

An aftermarket replacement remote key however would be even better!

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Yes, a Valet key sounds ideal as a stopgap.

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£300, holy shit, last one I bought was £147

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Aragorn wrote:

I think that sounds like a wise move actually, i think i will get a basic non-remote key made to keep in the drawer should the worst happen

That's a silly place to keep it, no good having a spare key in a drawer when you are hundreds of miles away from home. I've got a blank and have been meaning to get it cut for years now. My idea has always been to secrete it under the car somewhere so I know where it is and can get it if I need it but nobody else would. Even if anyone found it they'd still need the EKA before they could start the car anyway.

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Yeh that could work as well. I just figure i dont carry a spare key around for any of my other cars and its fine. If we go on a long trip, we usually both take a key, hers goes in her handbag out the way. Worst case its a 1 day special delivery to get the key posted to whereever you are (assuming someone can get to the house and collect it from the drawer!)

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Aragorn wrote:

Sloth wrote:

I have the Silca part numbers of compatible blanks if not somewhere. Could get a decent independant key cutter to copy your key's blade onto one of those.

I think that sounds like a wise move actually, i think i will get a basic non-remote key made to keep in the drawer should the worst happen and the remote get lost.

If you get a blank, you will find it needs a bit of filing ( or at least I’ve found that) to bring the width of the blade to spec, certainly measure before money is wasted on cutting a blank that won’t work.

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The blanks I use are the same BMW blade and fit perfectly :) They look identical to the P38 valet key - they just say Silca on them instead of Land Rover.

E39 BMWs (and possibly others) used the same key blade - so much so I routinely would get my E39 key and P38 keys mixed up and wonder why it wouldn't turn in the ignition!

I'll dig out the part number tonight - forgot last night!

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Sloth-- You are saying that my NANO is acting normal when it shows no EKA or FOB code because my US P38 came with a locked BECM. My NANO would not be able to read it even if my P38 had one originally.

My US dealer says that US P38's came without an EKA. Sounds like there is no way for me to determine if mine does. He says that they do not have that data in their database even using my VIN number. Nice catch 22 happening here.

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Yes. All P38s came with locked BECMs when the vehicle was delivered.

I think I replied to a thread over on the dark side re. the 1515 EKA - I don't know for definite if all US ones had that code, but I'm relatively sure its not possible to not have an EKA programmed in. I'll ask Marty in a bit.

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Thank Sloth-- Yes you did answer on the dark side. I am covering my bases. Is there any danger in trying to check out the 1515 code by going through the normal EKA proceedure?

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The danger is in finding out if it works as you need to get the car into a state where it needs the EKA in the first place. Then if it doesn't work you are screwed......

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No harm in trying 1515 if your car is already wanting the EKA. May as well give it a go with fingers crossed! Depending on the year of your P38, you may have to turn to lock (or unlock, I forget) 4 times before starting the digits.

This is true - although having a key that can still unlock the doors and unlock the steering would still be a lot of use if you do lose your keys and need to get into/move the vehicle (tow etc) in a pinch.

My spare keys don't live at home - If I'm not there, then at least one other vehicle is, and I don't want its spare key(s) inside the unoccupied house behind it. Sure, bit inconvenient if I lose the keys I keep on me and have to get to where I store the spares... but I'd rather that than risk some opportunistic skidmark having off with one of my vehicles if my house were ever broken in to. I may be slightly paranoid mind... they both have trackers too that update their location every minute back to my own hosted system. Costs me nothing so why not.

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Managed to get the scope out this morning and capture some traces.

I uploaded the screen captures to google drive here:

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1j0Ucc4hITsk0on_65Tvtbc2NR0WrQYtQ

I think as far as i can see, its all working as it should be. Nice repeatable looking signals when pressing the fob buttons when scoping directly from the reciever. Traces looked slightly odd once the filter was added, but that might be a scope issue, i didnt try adjusting anything.

Also captured a random burst of noise that popped up when connected directly to the reciever. You can really see why these caused issues, as sitting there for 5 minutes i saw quite a few bursts, sometimes much more persistent noise than the captured trace as well!

So that begs the question... If the receiver and remote are working, why on earth cant i pair it up?!

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They look fine. Filter ones a bit odd as you say, but we'll resolve that once the key starts working with the receiver alone. I'd be inclined to remove the images as that's basically a sniff of your key in a picture mind.

With the new latch in the driver's door, have you checked all three switches are operating properly? If they are this really should sync up. Do the hazards flash when you lock/unlock with the key?

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Fairly sure the hazards flash and the wee red LED on the dash starts blinking when the car is locked, but i will check tomorrow to be sure.

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Morat wrote:

Sloth wrote:

I do, but I'd rather not post up too much publicly. Feel free to PM me if you want - I can try and assist.

Programming other keys to the BECM requires a) the BECM to be in an unlocked state and b) to know the fob code of the remote lockset you wish to programme in.

Unlocking the BECM needs a Faultmate and the SM035 module. This requires a direct connection to the MCU in the BECM, via soldered on leads to the logic board.

Sloth, does this mean you could theoretically program a fob from a scrapper to work with any BeCM? If so, is it a service you could offer? I can offer you first place in future burger queues :)

Ok, get in the queue, lol,,