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The only place for a coil spring is up Zebedee's arse
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As I said I haven't done it, but it seems to me that with air depressurized, and the chassis jacked up, you could pull the bladder off the top and bottom fittings and simply remove the bladder.

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Hi

Airbags & clips have arrived OK, but just a question before I start on Monday.

I imagined that the metal piece [not sure it is the collet] where the air pipe enters would push down easily, but it doesn't. In fact iIcannot get it to move, so;

Is this just stiff & I need to apply more pressure, or is the collet actually attached to the air pipe & will come off with the pipe when the pipe is removed [or does the collet nee to be removed from the old air bag]?

I have looked a ta few youtube videos & it looks the same as my new bags, but the metal piece where the pipe enters will not move on my bag[s]. Or is it the case that it only moves when the pipe is in it & pushed down?

I am a little confused.

Thanks

John

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Pull it out not push it in. When the pipe is in place and there is pressure behind it, the collet lifts up to grip the pipe. With no pressure it just falls inside the hole and stays there.

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Keep pressing the collet in while you pull the hose out.

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Bottom clip can put up a bit of a fight getting it out

This was the understatement of the year! This car cannot have had new air bags for years, everything was rusted to destruction, & i have only done the front O/S!

The top clips just fell apart when I tried to remove them. But that was not the main problem.

The bottom pin took over 3 hours to remove, in the end it broke so I ended up putting a cold chisel through the gap between the chassis [as per the advice for the rears] & the air bag to smash the plastic base & even then the pin would not come out of the base, when it was in my hand.. Thankfully putting the new one back was easier, although the initial restart exposed an air leak where the pipe entered the air bag, but a firm push sorted it. I then could not get more than 2 of the clips for the wheel arch lining back in, they were too flexible with wear & age, but thankfully I had already ordered some new ones which should arrive tomorrow.

So 8 hours, yes 8 hours to do the front O/S, but I learnt a lot & but for the fact that I am shattered I actually enjoyed it, there is something about triumphing over adversity.

Thanks for the advice, we go again tomorrow morning, with the knowledge & experience of today!

Thanks

John

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Now you've done one side, the second one shouldn't take more than an hour at most. It's like everything, takes ages to do the first time and once you've done it, it's dead easy second time round. I've got heater core O rings down to under an hour start to finish now......

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BTW whats the torque setting for the wheels?

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RTFM, 80 ft/lb or 108 Nm if you want it in foreign.

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HELP!

What have I done to deserve this I do not know?

Got all the clips & pipe off the rear OS no problem, but the bag is stuck in the top, it will not move.

I have had a crowbar in trying to lever it out & it will not move. I have even got an old axe head & tried to hammer that in, but to no effect, it just gives a bit & then springs back into place.

I have tried penetrating spray & have no idea what to try next.

Any ideas.

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I take it you have removed the r clip!

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I went back & read what had been said on here & got it off, my own stupid fault i should have read what had been said again before starting.

Anyway 1 rear done.

J

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So,
The clip was still there??
On a separate subject, Do they salt the roads there or something?
I had Bolt in Hawaii in the rain, salt air and high humidity, for 13 years, and no rust anywhere?
No rot certainly........I keep seeing photos of your chassis with loads of corrosion? Gotta be salt?
Just curious........
Cheers! and good on ya for tackling the suspension!
Hint: I use a pair of surgical forceps to grip the tubes to give them a good push into the top fittings on the rears.
They let you clamp on to the tube without crushing it, and are lots skinnier than fingers!
Great for removal as well.

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On the wheel torque of 80 ft lb, does anyone know why my D2, with the same wheels, calls for 103 ft lb? 80 has always seemed low to me.

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No I had removed the clip, but I read the bit about using a chisel to smash the plastic housing to get it out.

It would have saved a lot of hassle if I had read it before starting

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Oh yes still salt the roads!

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Every winter, as soon as the temperature gets down to about 3 degrees C, or the weather man says it's going to get down that low, they chuck tonnes of rock salt all over the roads. Countries that get far colder than the UK don't, people just fit winter tyres and learn how to drive properly.

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And people still freak out at the slightest snow fall. It's embarassing.

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Morat wrote:

And people still freak out at the slightest snow fall. It's embarassing.

And others continue to drive like dick heads, as usual.

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The dickheads are a constant :(

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Morat wrote:

The dickheads are a constant :(

Don't i know it :(