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The only place for a coil spring is up Zebedee's arse.
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Joined: Jul 12 2016
Posts: 857

Morat wrote:

Once again - HUGE THANKS to Marty for sharing his knowledge, workshop, tools and generally being a very generous chap. Without you, The Duchess would be a wreck by now and I'd be sad.

Mine would be very sad too. When I was at Marty's earlier in the year he performed emergency surgery on mine as well.

I think we need to pool our resources and perfect human cloning in such a way that the new person retains the knowledge of the original. Marty is too valuable to the P38 world to be limited to one body :P

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Joined: Dec 30 2015
Posts: 1053

Glad you got home alright Morat!

Let me know how you get on with the rear prop shaft and the VC - sorry there didn't seem to be one there which is OK... probably explains why people were happy to send me 3 TC's at a time as part of a job lot... because they were pretty much junk otherwise!!

I was going to message you to make sure you had got back OK - but promptly been busy working on a RF filter backlog for a few people who had emailed the website about them, and finishing a HEVAC for another owner - so it's been somewhat of a busy week... I haven't even unpacked the tools from the car yet!

Thanks for lending a hand (and a foot... or 2 by the end of the bleed procedure) with my brakes - it's a big check mark off my list of things for the MOT this year!

Happy rovering over the summer!

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Joined: Dec 30 2015
Posts: 1424

**Crossposted from Opening Time

Martyuk wrote:

Morat wrote:

It's longer than mine but there's honestly a lot of stuff there that you could knock off in pretty short order.

If you want to compare....

  1. Viscous Coupling (arrived yesterday)
  2. Nasty scratch/dent above rear left wheel arch. This needs proper surgery and probably a replacement door. Super annoying as she had great bodywork when I bought her.
  3. CD player just shows "Error"
  4. Sat Nav doesn't get a signal
  5. I think the mid speaker in the driver's door card is dead

She's drivable but I don't want to put any more miles on her until the viscous is replaced or it'll just wear out the front tyres even more and damage the UJs and diff at the front. I'm tempted to DIY but not that tempted. I'll need a prop tool and probably a gear puller.

3/4 probably mean "Android head unit" but that'll have to wait.
5 Yeah I should do that. One day.

I'd probably get a few more propshaft nuts... at least a couple of the new ones i put on at the back were already starting to round... even with the propshaft nut tool! The access to the nuts at the back is a PITA because of the angle it comes off at. You'll probably get another use out of them anyway, and they aren't done up stupid tight - but up to you... They're 3/8 UNF and an be had on the likes of eBay in packs of 10, probably cheaper than what a LR place would sell them to you!

Marty, I appreciate this post. I'm currently getting the Jeep through the MOT which needed tyres and is going to consume my spare funds (quite apart from Her Ladyship's Birthday and two weeks holiday!)

BUT, thinking about it:

I'll jack up one side this weekend and see how the rear propshaft looks. I know it's in better shape than the front was - but that's not saying much :)

For the front I reckon I'll need:

New nuts/bolts, a couple of litres of Dex III and some RTV should sort it.
On the tools front, I've already got a breaker bar with 1/2" end. I'll need a pumpy bottle thing (like this? https://tinyurl.com/y5cb4ohg) and a propshaft nut tool which seem to be available from most LR sites in 1/4 and 1/2" drive.
Some say you need a gear puller to get the viscous unit out but Marty reckons some wood and careful hammering should be OK.
I've seen mention of a bearing that needs to be swapped over, not sure about that one..

I'm off this weekend but only because it's a busy one for the family. I'll probably start stockpiling the parts and have a go next month.

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Joined: Dec 30 2015
Posts: 3395

I've changed a VC on a late Classic with the same transfer case as on a P38 with it on a ramp. Fairly straightforward, no puller needed (on the one we were changing or the old P38 one we were stealing the VC out of) the hardest part was cracking the seal made by the RTV. RAVE says to rotate the cover but we found it needed a couple of whacks with a mallet to twist it and off it came. Although we had access to a ramp so used it, I wouldn't worry about doing the same job on the floor.