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The only place for a coil spring is up Zebedee's arse
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As I have now discovered. Unplugged the front left sensor and still only get the one fault on the front left. So it does display correctly on the Wabco C system.

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Just been looking at the decals on the boot as they are starting to peel off.
Anyone got any suggestions on what to use to try and restick?

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JimAHH wrote:

Just been looking at the decals on the boot as they are starting to peel off.
Anyone got any suggestions on what to use to try and restick?

Ordinary clear Bostick seems to work reasonably well.

Back to what I've been up to on the red one.
Bled the brakes, unsuccessfully. As the modulator was completely empty I think there is still air inside it. Pedal feels really hard, then with more pressure slowly goes to the floor. So that needs another attempt.....

Turned my attention to the LPG system, what a bloody mess! To start with, the toroidal tank has been put in back to front with the multivalve at the front, so under acceleration with less than half a tank of gas, the pickup will be uncovered and drawing vapour. The wiring under the bonnet has now been all ripped out and the mess made of the wiring at the engine ECU is disgusting. Wires cut, soldered using what appears to have been plumbers solder with no flux and 'insulated' with random bits of tape so before going any further I'm going to have to sort that lot out. So the "LPG converted" car has a tank and not a lot else, so effectively I'm going to be fitting a system from scratch.

There were no pollen filters in it and the passenger side pollen filter cover was in the glovebox. As the car has been standing for 3 years, both blowers were full of dead leaves so pulled them both out and emptied the blowers and ducting of leaves. Fitted a pair of pollen filters and put the covers back. Both footwells now need attacking with the vacuum cleaner again though.

Still waiting for the new brake vent switch for the cruise control so haven't put the driver's side heater duct back in yet which was what prompted me to clear the dead leaves out, but did a repair on the cruise vacuum pipe. There was a length of it from vent switch to the bulkhead at which point it stopped were it had perished. Local motor factors and a hydraulic/pneumatic specialist company didn't have anything suitable, so went for the alternative route. I've got 6mm copper tube that I use on air conditioning systems so ran a length of that from the footwell to the cruise system then used short lengths of the remaining rubber pipe at each end.

Unfortunately, rain has stopped play today so not inclined to get out there and carry on but there's still loads to do. Also need to get at mine too as the wiper linkage has started to squeak so needs a bit of lube on it before a trip to France on Wednesday.

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In regards to JimAHH's question, I would just buy a new rear boot set of letters. I replaced all the letters, front and back, on my P38. They are easy to get off, just use a piece of thread and cut under the letters, then use some white spirit [that you use when painting] and carefully clear off the glue that will be sticking to the paintwork, and finally stick on the new letters.

There are a few sellers of the letters but if you go this way, and it is better than using glue to restick the existing letters [that is just dumb as they may never come off later if the car is to be repainted], if you go this way ensure that you buy the strip of letters that are on a backing paper, and just stick onto the car with the correct spacing etc. Then you just peel off the top piece of paper, leaving you with nice new letters. It just takes a bit of care to get the position correct, and to ensure that they are in a straight, level, line.

Pierre3.

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It’s the ‘S’ on the DHSE that’s peeling.
Last time I looked I couldn’t order this sticker. Might look again.
Some one mentioned clear nail varnish might be good? Will try to restick while I wait for the magic sticker to become available.
I have some proper Range Rover decals ready for when they give up. Not looking forward to getting them straight.
Although I think Ed China did the job on wheeler dealers once..

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Get a roll of the blue masking tape and run that along the bottom of the existing letters. Warm the existing ones with a hair dryer so they peel off, clean the remaining glue off then you can use the masking tape as a guide for fitting the new ones.

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Not today but last sunday
Video here
https://photos.app.goo.gl/Jefn2KefTiqEPtLb6
I'm the silver P38, see me in action at 2mins 38 seconds, 3:27 and 5:16. The orange 90 broke the front diff, the black 90 both rear shockers, the white 110 a propshaft and a CVJ. So one 90 became a Citroen, 2 wheel frontwheel drive. The SVR failed two climbs that I cleared (but admittedly he was on pure road tyres). So if we scored it the Rangie came 3rd out of 8, not bad for a standard manual on Grabber AT3s.
Immense fun and mind boggling considering all the other tricked up 4x4s with their lockers, widened wheelbases and wide sand tyres.

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looked like a good day of fun wheeling around the bush.
good video.