romanrob wrote:
"Quite clean" filters? Lol
If you've seen how they normally come out... mine look almost pristine in comparison. They're also not 20 years old and original like most. Needs must and I'm not going to avoid doing the job just because I don't have a nice new set. Don't get me wrong... I wouldn't reuse an oil filter during an oil change...
Finished the plugs and HT Leads, test drove, no faults - DONE!
Hopefully for good this time.
New EBC Stage 4 Rotors for the front on Bolt. (Standard disks for the rear)
For some bizzare reason, these were listed on Amazon for $39.95 with free shipping......One set left......
I thought it sounded too good to be true, and ordered them anyway along with some green EBC pads.......WCPGW?
They showed up 3 days early and are as advertised! Looked to buy about 6 more sets for friends, only to find they are now $305.24!
I had a slightly warped LF rotor. These new disks and pads are terrific!
Nice to win one occasionallly!
REALLY nice that it is still possible to get brake parts that are made in UK or USA. NOT CHINA!
Now, how to address the very slight weep of coolant that is coming from the left rear of the engine (probably head gasket)...sighhhhhhh
Happy motoring!
Tom
PS: How long and at what temperature do you bake your filters? Mine always come out tough no matter how I cook them! (HP sauce works well as a topping)
I love the EBC pads and disks too. Great price, someone probably had their knuckles rapped for that one!
Bolt wrote:
PS: How long and at what temperature do you bake your filters? Mine always come out tough no matter how I cook them! (HP sauce works well as a topping)
A nice low-medium 60-70 degrees science (none of this freedom unit rubbish) works well ;)
More a BBQ sauce fan myself. Be sure to brush them first to remove any lumpy bits that may not have evened out in the mix. Or don't - added texture.
Apple Chutney, with a nice bit of chilli. Nothing fierce, just a single birds eye in a batch. No Cinnamon though, people put it with apples all the damn time.
and there speaks the barbecue expert, so any advice from Morat must be correct.
lol :)
In other news, I took the Duchess to work today put the seats down and rammed her full of five tills, two network switches 7 big UPS units 3 CCTV cameras and a load of associated cables and tools. I didn't even need the trailer, there's tons of rooms in these things :)
Annnnd on to the Borrego.......
I re sprayed the "Pattern baldness" on the roof either side of the sun roof. Looks great again. The rest of the paint is in good nick.
I had re finished an factory bull bar obtained for the princely sum of 25 bucks from the breakers by cleaning and spraying with
flexible Polyurethane "Bed Liner" in a rattle can. Good as new.
This was installed on the freshly sprayed bumper and on the Borrego.......Then un installed, disassembled to insert the 2 friggin
spacers!!!!! (I know better too!). Back together, and it looks really nice!
Tomorrow, the factory roof rack goes on!
Kinda hate to sell the Borrego, as it is a super clean example of it's type. (If some clod had not removed the EAS it would be perfect!)
Oh well, Wife says one or the other of the 02's goes. (And Bolt stays. End argument!) Besides, now with the soon to be restored
1950 Willys Jeep in the barn, it's a bit tight.....
Changed exhaust manifold gaskets both sides yesterday.
A bigger pain in the hole there is not .... unless you consider the O ring replacement in the heater matrix.
Rocker cover gaskets then decided that they wanted to be changed so that’s next on the list....
I'd rather do heater O rings any day compared with exhaust manifold gaskets. On a RHD, the very back bolt on the RH manifold is a real pain to get to so I would assume the LH one is similar for you.
What did I do today? Took it out, drove it around and took a picture of another milestone on the odometer (and yes, that is miles.....). If I'd have filled up with LPG at 388800.0 and not at 388799.9, I'd even have had the trip meter showing all the 8s too.
Changed the Oil.
Found it.
Not too bad considering,.
I used this kit.
Tappet tapping has gone now which is nice..
5W-40? A bit thin, I run 10W-60 in mine.......
I did initially think the same Gilbertd
Research showed exactly what you're saying, to which i agree..
However for trips and giggles i decided to go with the Owners manual, 5w40 "allegedly" is the best of both worlds.
So i'm gonna find out!
She sounds ok, apart from a dicky idler and alternator, grumbling at me.
A start after 4 weeks sitting, the ticking only lasts for 4 seconds whereas before it would go on for minutes '_
SR.
Today: Changed all the brake discs and pads - a couple of stuck slide pins (freed and greased for now) and n/s front pistons have shredded gaiters, overhall kit due for purchase I think. Rear brakes are quite rusty, might replace the carriers etc.
Viscous test whilst jacked, still seems stiff. 90 Lb/ft and very gentle steady turn (hub nut) will move the wheel but still slightly dubious on that one.
Didn't do the axle oil seal as started at midday - still outstanding. Slow drip but doesn't go down appreciably between level checks that I can tell. Still can't be good. Have full set of pipework to fit for cooling system, noticed it was on the way out when I changed the thermostat (and plugs and filters) a couple of weeks ago.
Tomorrow: test spare MAF as have been getting odd spikes at random voltages (according to nanocom) and high minus adaptive airflow coupled with repeated -16.25 LTFT (Bank 2 is 5-10% more in the minus on STFT, needs looking at as well). Still to look at IAT sensor, TPS and IACV seem ok for now. Could be shared ground, could be wiring, could be GEMS ecu. With the brakes done for now (worst bit at least) gives me a Sunday to play with the GEMS bits. Still got a ton of stuff to do on the Thor, that needs a schedule of works in order of importance.
Drove it to Driffield through the pouring rain, used the tailgate to get two freezing U9 Rugby players changed into dry clothing, drove back with the heated seats on and the defrost mode fighting the immense amount of steam. She ploughed through the standing water without a wibble.
At the same time, a former P38 owner and garage mechanic gave me two rear shocks a (britpart) steering damper (in its box) a MAF and various hoses for £20. If the MAF checks out, I'll be chuffed to bits!
Managed to drag all the moisture out of the front carpet foam..
Quite ingenious, well not really!
Cheap though!!
Also replaced the bulbs in the Fogs.
might brighter! ;)
Every time I've had to dry out foam on a P38 from the front carpet, I've gotten a bit ruthless and cut it out. I then give it a washing in clean water to get the coolant out before drying it out completely. It is amazing how much water it will retain and the difference in weight once dry! Always goes back in and you'd never know it was ever taken out.
Mine is finally, I think, starting to generally dry out everywhere else inside. Windscreen has steamed up again I notice this evening but we've been out in it so the A/C evaporator is probably now drying off causing that.
It has however started pinging by the sounds of it... time for some engine TLC to keep it hanging in.
This is pretty good for damp. It won't instantly dry a soggy P38 carpet but over time it makes a genuine difference.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07DLC1T5T/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1